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Post in Fragrance Fans
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Fragrance Junkie Central

I know there are a few of us on BT that are fragrance addicts, so I thought it would be nice to have a dedicated place where we can share our thoughts.

 

This is not to take away from the lovely What Are You Wearing Today, Fragrance Edition thread, but more a place to post longer reviews, chat about new brands or releases, and just shoot the breeze on anything good and smelly 🙂

 

For me, I recently acquired 2 new decants that I've been anxiously awaiting.  Ever since Lachaton mentioned that MMM was releasing a new scent called By The Fireplace I've been itching to get my hands on it.  My decant arrived yesterday, so I'm looking forward to marinating in it this weekend.  Secondly, I recently picked up a tiny sample of Shiseido Nombre Noir.  Supposedly it is one of the most expensive failures in perfume history - made by Serge Lutens for Shiseido back in the 80s.  Of course, with a backstory like that, I was dying to get a sniff 😄

 

What's new on your scent radar?  Do tell!

 

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New DS Durga studio juice, desert Paintbrush 

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New Guerlain - Kadine (relaunch of 1911 perfume)

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Notes:

Top notes are Anise and Bergamot; middle notes are Heliotrope, Cassia Bourbon, Cloves, Jasmine and Cinnamon; base notes are Violet, iris and Vanilla.

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@Mochapj I love it when perfumers bring back the really old scents or recreate what was worn hundreds of years ago. They can be really interesting. 

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@Mochapj Oh wow, this should be really interesting! I read it's one of their ultra pricey LEs? It's an iris scent so if they're using the natural stuff, it's probably a very expensive formula.

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@ch3rrytr1x  I ordered a DS of this, cant wait to get it and smell it...it sounds so good, and I love vanilla, so I'm hoping its as good as it sounds.  The bottle is gorgeous, too...esp. the travel size one.  I have a sample of My Way, so I'll have to compare them... 😊🤗

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Too Faced is releasing a fragrance that "features a rich blend of golden amber, patchouli and raw cedarwood layered with a combination of passionfruit, lychee and peach. The middle notes include pink magnolia, sweet jasmine, vanilla orchid and black rose". Sounds like a typical fruity floral to me.

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I've been searching for any fragrance dupe for Badgley Mischka. If anyone knows of a dupe, I'd love to know.

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@Thehouseofbaez Wouldn't call it a dupe but Mugler Angel Eau de Parfum is a big fruity scent with a patchouli base though Angel is way more in your face. You can search for this scent in Fragrantica where other users have suggestions for comparisons

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@pocketvenus Thank you for the lead! I've heard Angel and Mugler Alien are really amazing scents. I just loved the sophisticated scent of Badgley Mischka so crossing my fingers.

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@Thehouseofbaez You're welcome! If you want to go for a sophisticated vibe, I would consider a fruity chypre although definitely test first because they can smell dated to some people.

 

Classic fruity chypres include

  • Guerlain's Mitsouko, total classic, very French
  • Rochas Femme, though I'm not sure what the current formulation is like. I have the 80s one by Oliver Cresp and it is the bomb. Warning, it is a little dirty.
  • Frederic Malle Le Parfum de Thérèse, a personal favourite, self-contained, a touch melancholy
  • Amouage Jubilation 25 for Woman, stunning!

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Read on Persolaise's blog that Frederic Malle will be discontinuing Dries Van Noten and Superstitious! These are both great ones from the house, I wonder if there has been a push for reformulation that wasn't acceptable to the house. We saw Kilian have to ax many fragrances a few years after it was acquired by Estee Lauder, I hope the same doesn't happen with Malle. @WinglessOne 

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Thanks for the heads-up, @pocketvenus ! This is such a bummer... now I'm also curious about reformulation mandates, which seem odd because Superstitious in particular is such a crowd pleaser. Strangers still ask me what I'm wearing (when I wear it, of course). I'm not a big fan of Dries Van Noten (don't hate it by any means, it's just a bit too powdery for me), but I know a couple folks who are. Sigh... Guess I'll keep an eye out for end-of-life discounts. 

 

EL's killed some good beauty products and brands this year. And yeah, I know, "pandemic-related profit losses," but geez. 😞 I keep forgetting to look for news updates on EL brands, to get a sense of what's next on the chopping block. 

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@pocketvenus I don't like that they end fragrances but I'm thankful for travel sizes and discovery sets. I don't have the big bucks but enjoy owning and sampling many different perfumes and I can't run out and purchase a full size of everything I'd like. Also, I have a good variety so unless it's a holiday or a real sale I can't justify much more than travel size. But I really like perfume...

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@Margalee I hear you on smaller sizes. I don't have a signature scent so I really don't need 200ml or even 100ml. One of the benefits of the Lauder acquisitions is that it's becoming more common for travel sizes to be released, like we're seeing with Tom Ford, Killian.

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@pocketvenus @Margalee  I also love smaller sizes, but its a bit annoying bc the biggest ones are the best value, even if the smaller bottles are actually nicer...lol.  😅  Like, I recently got Prada Candy Night, finally, when it was on sale for labor day...originally I wanted the small bottle, bc I thought it was the cutest...then, I finally reconciled to get the biggest one...but then I ended up getting the middle one. 😅

 

The smaller bottles tend to look nicer to me, though, so its a bit annoying that they usually arent as good of a value. 😕

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@treestar86 Yes, the smaller sizes are definitely more expensive per ml, I guess it all depends on how much you anticpate wearing the fragrance! Thankfully perfume can last decades with proper storage if you spring for a larger bottle 🙂

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@WinglessOne I suspect it's a reformulation versus cost of materials issue? Malle has reformulated but he strikes me as someone who would rather shelve a scent than see it reformulated below his standards. Because I agree, these two do not strike me as unpopular fragrances in the house. Very surprizing! Well, a former Malle SA confirmed the discontinuations with me so that's now two decent sources. Fans of these scents should definitely get in touch with their Malle SA 😞

 

Trends I've noticed after EL gets involved in a perfume house include

  • smaller sizes, travel sizes
  • discovery sets
  • axing products
  • "masstige" products that are more affordable but significantly more expensive than designer products
  • pressure to increase profit margins which sounds obvious but I read an interview where Kilian Hennessy, no stranger to business, was struggling with this pressure from EL and it seemed like he had to make a lot of concessions - but he said he felt compelled to sell to EL because of its extensive distribution networks. This then makes me think that with extensive international distribution, there is likely pressure to cater to the tastes of the largest markets. Like, I wonder if the uptick in tuberose fragrances has been because of Chinese tastes. Culturally, tuberose is not considered carnal and challenging like it is in Europe and N. America. It is considered pure and clean.

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Last one today, Burberry is releasing a new fragrance for men, Hero. Adam Driver fans take note

 

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The fragrance is brightened with sparkling bergamot and invigorated with juniper and black pepper. This vibrant scent is deepened with a heart of warm cedarwood of three distinct origins: Virginia, the Atlas Mountains, and the Himalayas.

 

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It's listed on long time ago

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I do not know if I would like the fragrance, but I love the AD!  😍😋

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