Which Ingredient/Skincare treatment helps with...?🌿🧪💐

[Buootiful]

Are you confused which ingredient helps or worsens your skin problem? There are so many skincare tips out there, it's hard to determine which one is best for you. I thought I would start this thread to get helpful advice from our BIC skincare experts 😍.

I got a pimple by my smile lines and I am thinking it is hormonal acne because it left a dark spot after the whitehead calmed down.  I want to get a serum to fade the acne scar but I don't remember if it's best using Tea tree oil or Salicylic acid?

Also, is it called Acne scarring or Hyperpigmentation 🤔. I'm so confused on the terminology🤣.

[alexasteph]

@Buootiful Given the already provided wealth of knowledge below, I’ll just recommend a few products I enjoy to even skin tone, reduce texture, and fade dark spots. 

I used REN Clean Skincare Ready Steady Glow Daily AHA Tonic for years and years and loved it for skin clarity and preventing breakouts, and do still recommend it. Lately though, I’ve switched to Caudalie Vinoperfect Brightening Glycolic Essence 5.0 oz/ 150 mL because it’s a bit better for fine lines. 

A few times a week, I use Tatcha Violet-C Brightening Serum 20% Vitamin C + 10% AHA 1 oz/ 30 mL as my night serum and love it. The rest of the week, I reach for bareMinerals Skinlongevity Long Life Herb Anti-Aging Face Serum 1.7 oz/ 50 mL which does a nice job of keeping my skin balanced. 

I hope those product recommendations are helpful! 

[Buootiful]

Thanks for the great product recs @alexasteph ! This reminds me I need to pull out some minis I have for bareMinerals Skinlongevity Long Life Herb Anti-Aging Face Serum 1.7 oz/ 50 mL . I haven't used it in awhile and need to get back to it. The Tatcha Violet C has been on my Love list for awhile and I keep forgetting to check it out. I bought some under $20 Vitamin C and Hyaluronic acid during the Boxy Charm pop up and need to use them up first. 

[MOBILESTYLES]

There is some good news here: research has shown that a modest quantity of tea tree oil can help with acne. It causes allergies in a limited number of persons. If it works for you, wonderful; if you apply it to your skin and discover you're allergic to it, you've created a whole new problem.

Some others swear by crushed an aspirin, mixing it with a few drops of water, and dabbing it on their pimple. Acetylsalicylic acid, the active element in aspirin, is related to salicylic acid, a prevalent anti-inflammatory ingredient in many skin care products.

However, there is minimal scientific evidence that salicylic acid is useful for treating acne, according to acne treatment recommendations. Many doctors believe it just dries up the skin without providing any benefit.

While there are various items in your medical cabinet that may be useful in an emergency, it may be worthwhile to invest in a benzoyl peroxide-containing product to have on hand for skin care crises.

[Buootiful]

Thanks @MOBILESTYLES I was looking at Tea tree oil for its dual purpose for treating skin and hair. Having benzoyl peroxide handy sounds like a good idea. 

[BrokeElizabeth]

Hi! Neither of those ingredients will do anything except waste your money. You’re so welcome lol The 100% fail proof way TO NOT GET HYPERPIGMENTATION IS……SPF!!!! 
I only spew love and facts!

You need a high SPF, that you LOVE because you need to be wearing it 365 days a year and reapplying every 2 hours; I live in MINNESOTA; my indoor house plants get HUGE in the winter.

WHY?

That UVA light baby. 
I highly recommend @DRMTLGY 

[Buootiful]

Haha, I'm afraid it's already too late to avoid hyperpigmentation for me 🙂 . Thanks @BrokeElizabeth . I didn't do any skincare until I turned 40 and only put on SPF when I went hiking or swimming. 😞. I need to go back to wearing spf everyday now that I'm feeling a little better mentally. 

[WinglessOne]

@BrokeElizabeth  First: hooray for broad spectrum sunscreen! 👍 You're right that it's absolutely necessary whenever skin's exposed to sunlight, even if you're in a vehicle or indoors beside a window that's not treated with a UV filter. (Glass blocks UVB but not UVA.) We should all wear the hecking sunscreen, every day, all year long, regardless of weather or season. 

Next: sunscreen can't stop 100% of hyperpigmentation because UV rays aren't its only cause. Inflammation causes hyperpigmentation for many people (including me). If you've ever had a pimple, bug bite, rash, etc. that left a dark mark behind, that's hyperpigmentation—specifically, PIH (post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation). Burns—not just sunburn—can cause hyperpigmentation. Some pregnant people develop melasma (a stubborn form of hyperpigmentation) due to hormonal changes. And there are other skin conditions not caused by UV rays that result in hyperpigmentation. 

But yes, sunscreen's still important as the sun is not only a huge source of hyperpigmentation but also (probably) the most prevalent carcinogen on Earth. 

[CynthieLu]

The dark spot(s) left behind from acne is called hyper pigmentation @Buootiful  I'm pretty sure 😅 and Acne scars form when to much Collagen forms in a particular spot during the having process (I'm quoting Dr. Dennis Gross on that) 

Exfoliators like AHA or glycolic, lactic or madelic acids can help or even Retinol but always a good idea to consult your family doctor or dermatologist before starting any new treatment. Dr Dennis Gross had an article in Harper's Bazaar that mentioned the above,  as well as adding Vitamin C to your skin care routine * but you have to be careful adding actives and how you combine them because they don't always play well togeather* 

For example  Vitamin C and AHA's,BHA's,Salicylic Acid etc... do not mix

Retinol dosen't mix with Vitamin C  or AHA'S other BHA's either, and I'm sure other things 

I use Niacinamide, I heard it helps control/prevent hyperpigmentation 

The Ordinary 100% Niacinamide Powder 0.7 oz/ 20 g 

But I'm no doctor so don't quote me lol

[Buootiful]

Thank you @CynthieLu ! The Ordinary looks like an interesting product to mix with a moisturizer. Just for pores alone, I would get this! I'm putting it on my loves list 🙂 .

[CynthieLu]

Of the Niacinimides this one to by them is pretty great, The Ordinary Niacinamide 10% + Zinc 1% Oil Control Serum  @Buootiful  my personal fav of them all 🙂

[WinglessOne]

@CynthieLu  Quick clarification: You can use vitamin C alongside AHAs, BHA (salicylic acid), and retinol. Vitamin C doesn’t “cancel out” any of those ingredients. Heck, there are products on the market that combine vitamin C with some of those ingredients. The only reason not to layer them is your particular skin’s tolerance level. Some people’s skin can’t handle vitamin C solo, let alone in combo with other actives. When in doubt, patch test to see if your skin tolerates these ingredients. 

Niacinamide does help with hyperpigmentation, among many other things. It doesn’t work the same way as tyrosinase inhibitors* that stop melanin production. Instead, it stops the transfer of melanin to the skin surface. (That’s a super simplified explanation.) Niacinamide’s good to use alongside tyrosinase inhibitors. 

*Our bodies have an enzyme called tyrosinase that helps create melanin. A tyrosinase inhibitor is any ingredient that blocks that enzyme, thus blocking melanin production. These ingredients include azelaic acid, arbutin, ascorbic acid (vitamin C), kojic acid, hydroquinone, resveratrol, and hexylresorcinol. 

[CynthieLu]

Wow @WinglessOne 

I knew Vitamin C can cause a reaction in some people but I really thought from all the things I read that there world be some sort of reaction mixing it with Retinols or AHA"s etc...

Thank you for your explanation, and taking the time to explain all that

So if I'm taking away from this that Niacinamide stops melanin from coming to the surface of the skin,  where as Vitamin C blocks melanin production?

And the reason ahas and bha's help with hyperpigmentation is becuase they are chemical exfoliators and retinol helps because they increase the skin cell turn over rate? So those ones,  over time would improve the look of HP?

[WinglessOne]

@CynthieLu  Nope, no reaction from ascorbic acid + [retinol, glycolic acid, lactic acid, etc.] aside from some people's skin tolerance level. There's also still a myth floating around, based on an old scientific study, that you shouldn't mix ascorbic acid and niacinamide because the mixture can create nicotinic acid and cause all kinds of skin badness. But for that to happen, the 2 ingredients have to be combined at a very high temperature. And since none of us do our skincare routines while sticking our faces in a kiln, there's nothing to worry about. 

AHAs and BHA, as well as PHA, do help reduce hyperpigmentation by removing dead skin cells from the skin surface, revealing newer skin. If you use niacinamide, tyrosinase inhibitors, and/or vitamin A (retinol, retinaldehyde, retinoic acid/tretinoin, etc.) to reduce hyperpigmentation, an exfoliant can reveal newer skin that's more normally pigmented. Vitamin A speeds up the skin cell growth cycle, so new skin's created faster; stronger too, since vitamin A also boosts collagen production. Vitamin A doesn't exfoliate dead skin cells the way AHA/BHA/PHA do. 

For my ongoing skincare goal of reducing hyperpigmentation, ascorbic acid and its derivatives haven't helped nearly as much as vitamin A, niacinamide, azelaic acid, arbutin, and kojic acid. That doesn't mean vitamin C is useless for everyone. I mean, I still use a few products that contain derivatives (mostly an oil soluble one) because vitamin C's a very good antioxidant, and some derivatives might actually get deep enough into skin to boost collagen production. And some folks get great hyperpigmentation-reduction results from vitamin C. 

[CynthieLu]

You know so much @WinglessOne thank you for being so kind and informative, I really truly appreciate it.

Knowledge is so important when trying to figure out the skin care world and there's so many ingredients out there and we all have such different skin, it's a confusing world at times. 

[WinglessOne]

@Buootiful  Lemme drop one of my favorite skincare ingredient reference sites: INCIdecoder. It’s a database where you can look up products or individual ingredients. It’s not a product rating site. Full disclosure: it’s run by the woman behind the Geek & Gorgeous skincare brand. But I’ve yet to see any brand related bias, and the site doesn’t promote G&G products (unlike Paula’s Choice’s revamped ingredient database). 

Hyperpigmentation is any overly pigmented skin. This includes acne dark marks, which are usually called post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH). That just means skin darkness left behind after inflammation. 

To fade acne PIH, consider azelaic acid, kojic acid, alpha arbutin, and vitamin C. Those ingredients target the melanin production process. Tranexamic acid might also help, though it’s more proven to work when taken orally than applied topically to skin. 

I’d say more but I’m on my phone right now and don’t have my reading glasses. 😂 Hopefully there aren’t many typos in this post. 

[Buootiful]

Ahh, thanks so much  for your knowledge! I finally know the exact term for these acne scars. It was confusing AF when trying to figure out what skincare product I should get. Post Inflammatory hyperpigmentation, yay. I think I'll start with something small and research some more intense treatments. I was looking at the brand, Peace out, and will try Peace Out Microneedling Dark Spot Brightening Dots during the F+F sale. I'll check out the website too. Thanks again, @WinglessOne ❤️

[WinglessOne]

No problem, @Buootiful ! Keep me updated on how those Peace Out microneedling dots work for you. I've considered trying them but keep forgetting about 'em. 🤦‍♀️ They contain some good stuff for hyperpigmentation: niacinamide, arbutin, and licorice root. And trehalose is a good hydrator. I'm still not quite sold on tranexamic acid (applied topically, vs. taken orally) but hey, if it works, that's great! 

Another product to consider is Topicals Faded Serum for Dark Spots & Discoloration 1.7 oz/ 50 mL . That one's a blend of azelaic acid, alpha arbutin, licorice root, niacinamide, a kojic acid derivative (this reminds me to look for studies about the efficacy of kojic acid derivatives), and tranexamic acid, plus skin soothing centella asiatica, allantoin, and turmeric; the latter can also brighten skin.