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Post in Perfume Posse

Fragrance Junkie Central

I know there are a few of us on BT that are fragrance addicts, so I thought it would be nice to have a dedicated place where we can share our thoughts.

 

This is not to take away from the lovely What Are You Wearing Today, Fragrance Edition thread, but more a place to post longer reviews, chat about new brands or releases, and just shoot the breeze on anything good and smelly Smiley Happy

 

For me, I recently acquired 2 new decants that I've been anxiously awaiting.  Ever since Lachaton mentioned that MMM was releasing a new scent called By The Fireplace I've been itching to get my hands on it.  My decant arrived yesterday, so I'm looking forward to marinating in it this weekend.  Secondly, I recently picked up a tiny sample of Shiseido Nombre Noir.  Supposedly it is one of the most expensive failures in perfume history - made by Serge Lutens for Shiseido back in the 80s.  Of course, with a backstory like that, I was dying to get a sniff Smiley Very Happy

 

What's new on your scent radar?  Do tell!

 

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Re: Fragrance Junkie Central

I just learned that Diptyque will be releasing an LE scent for 2019, sometime around July, with the name 34. It's a pretty floral, magnolia I think the SA said, with a bit of tonka sweetness and dries down on paper to something powdery. They will also be getting 30ml bottles in stock of their more popular fragrances.

Re: Fragrance Junkie Central

I was wrong! The name of this LE release is Essences Insensées 2019 and the main flower of this scent is gardenia!

 

Tiare/gardenia combines green notes, a lively presence and a wholly ethereal freshness akin to a gentle ocean breeze. A vanilla absolute has been added to bring out the sensual qualities of this exotic bloom.

 

I will say there was a touch of “salty breeze” but it took a good long while for it to show up on paper. The vanilla is not overpowering. I would describe it fresh over green though. It’s not an earthy galbanum green but the green of fresh flowers.

Re: Fragrance Junkie Central

Ooohhh, I'm almost tempted by this! I can't stand many florals, but my gardenia bushes just got done flowering for the year and I miss that scent already. I find gardenia perfumes to generally be too overwhelming though. I need to see if Diptyque is available anywhere around me. 

Re: Fragrance Junkie Central

Carolina Herrera’s ‘Good Girl’ Finds Its Counterpart in ‘Bad Boy’
Carolina Herrera is building out its men's fragrance portfolio with the launch of a new scent, Bad Boy.

 

Carolina Herrera's House of Fragrances aims to replicate the success of Good Girl with the launch of Bad Boy, a new men's fragrance. 

Spoiler

Good Girl, meet Bad Boy. 

Carolina Herrera’s fragrance business is booming, thanks, in large part, to Good Girl. The scent, which launched three years ago, is said to do about 300 million euros at retail annually and is growing 30 percent year-over-year in the U.S. alone. Industry sources estimate it could bring in as much as 350 million euros at retail in 2019. 

With its women’s portfolio going strong, Herrera’s House of Fragrances is shifting its focus to the men’s market, where it hopes to replicate the success of Good Girl. And what better way to start than with a Good Girl counterpart: the aptly titled Bad Boy Eau de Toilette. 

“The brand Carolina Herrera is in a grand momentum,” said José Manuel Albesa, president of brands, markets and operations at Puig. “We see all the pieces of the brand growing fast, whether it’s the New York CH stores and fragrances. Good Girl was a phenomenal success. We thought it was time to develop the master brand three years later.” 

With Bad Boy, Carolina Herrera aims to “target a new type of man with a new masculinity,” said Ana Trias, senior vice president of prestige and premium brands at Puig. That target man, she continued, is “not afraid to take risks, is basing his masculinity on duality and bringing this strong and sensitive side to the fragrance world.” 

Neither Albesa nor Trias would discuss sales projections, but industry sources estimated that Bad Boy could do as much as 100 million euros in its first year at retail. 
Carolina Herrera's House of Fragrances builds out its men's portfolio with Bad Boy.

Bad Boy is the ninth men’s fragrance in the Herrera House of Fragrances portfolio, which also includes 10 women’s fragrances and a genderless line called Herrera Confidential. Bad Boy includes notes of sage, green bergamot, pepper, tonka beans, cocoa and amber wood. It will retail for 97 euros and comes packaged in a lightning bolt-shaped bottle — the sculptural alternative to Good Girl’s high- heel, shoe-shaped one. 

Starting this year, Bad Boy will roll out to 7,000 doors across Europe, Latin America, the Middle East and travel retail. It will be made available worldwide in 2020, mirroring the distribution strategy of Good Girl. 

“These are the historic areas where we have been very strong,” said Trias. “The travel retail associated to these areas is also very important for us. In some areas, it’s key for us.” 

The brand chose British actor Ed Skrein to be the face of the fragrance, as he embodies what Trias referred to as “modern masculinity.”

“[Skrein] expressed this idea of men’s contradictions and embracing different facets of his life,” said Trias. “We thought he was also a good alter ego for Karlie [Kloss, the face of Good Girl]. His career and his life, the way he explains it, makes sense with this masculinity we’re looking for: strong, but emotional at the same time, sensitive.” 

Bad Boy, said Albesa, will play a key role in not only evening out the fragrance house’s portfolio, but helping the larger Carolina Herrera brand reach its goal of becoming a billion-euro brand in the next few years. 

“We are working on a new plan, which is called House of Herrera, to reach one billion euros worldwide at the end of 2023,” said Albesa. “Bad Boy will help us with the objective of the brand to become a one billion brand in the next three years. We will be doing initiatives that will accompany this brand trajectory.”

 

Re: Fragrance Junkie Central

I didn't know where to ask this but did the  Sephora Clean Fragrance Sampler kit that was available for $65 sell out? It's not on the website anymore.

 

It contained:

– 0.05 fl oz/ 1.5mL By Rosie Jane Leila Lou Eau de Parfum
(Certificate redeems for 1.7 oz/ 50 mL Eau de Parfum Spray)
– 0.05 fl oz/ 1.5mL Clean Reserve Skin Eau de Parfum
(Certificate redeems for 3.4 oz/ 100 mL Eau de Parfum Spray)
– 0.05 fl oz/ 1.5mL Ellis Brooklyn Myth Eau de Parfum
(Certificate redeems for 1.7 oz/ 50 mL Eau de Parfum Spray)
– 0.05 fl oz/ 1.5mL Maison Louis Marie No. 04 Bois de Balincourt Eau de Parfum
(Certificate redeems for 1.7 oz/ 50 mL Eau de Parfum Spray)
– 0.05 fl oz/ 1.5mL Phlur Hanami Eau de Parfum
(Certificate redeems for 1.7 oz/ 50 mL Eau de Parfum Spray)
– 0.05 fl oz/ 1.5mL Skylar Isle Eau de Toilette
(Certificate redeems for 1.7 oz/ 50 mL Eau de Toilette Spray)
– 0.05 fl oz/ 1.5mL The 7 Virtues Vanilla Woods Eau de Parfum
(Certificate redeems for 1.7 oz/ 50 mL Eau de Parfum Spray)

Re: Fragrance Junkie Central

@Tarabottiif it's not on Sephora's website, it's probably done. If you're close to a physical outlet, you could always try calling and see if there's any left?

RE: Fragrance Junkie Central

Sigh I should know better than to blind buy FBs by now but I thought this would be a safe buy for me - notes list a little fruit, mainly rose, a hint or sugar and vanilla and a little wood (though Oud was notlisted). I don’t mean to put down anyone’s fragrance preferences because I think there’s no such thing as a right/wrong reaction but I just wanted to warn anyone who was contemplating a Mancera or Montale purchase and is very sensitive to a specific kind of note that they maywant to sample first. I get a whopping dose of this note that is hard todescribe here - to me it smells kind of like musk combined with pine sol combined with the nose searing quality of acetone without the acetone scent. There’s rose there and some other things but to my nose this potent brain stabbing fragrance note is so potent that I can’t focus on the prettier elements of the fragrance. I absolutely haaaaate it hahaha - and I have 120ml of it now - I don’t know what I was thinking! Worst purchase of the year! I asked around on the Fragrantica forum and a few people said they knew what I was talking about and that many though not all of the manceras and montales have it. I always wonder what it is - is it ambroxan? Is it ambroxan and Oud? Does anyone know what I’m talking about? I also get this note (though to a lesser extent) in amouage blossom love, JHAG Not a Perfume... some others but that’s what I am coming up with off the top of my head. What do you guys think do you sort of know what I mean? Has anyone tried anything by Mancera or Montale if you did what did you think? : ) thanks kindly

Re: RE: Fragrance Junkie Central

@RoseCharlie

 

I've smelled a few Montales before and they struck me as kind of harsh. I'm pretty confident there's no real oud in your fragrance. Oud can have its phenolic and pungent sides but it's never scratchy in my experience. I'd guess it's probably ambroxan that's bothering you as that's the main ingredient in Not a Perfume. It's known for being used to make perfumes louder and long-lasting.

 

Re: RE: Fragrance Junkie Central

Thanks @pocketvenus  : ) yeah ambroxan sounds like a good candidate for culprilt and i can’t help thinking maybe a mix of ambroxan and super musks? There’s a kind of musky edge to the scent I don’t like... sigh ah well I’ll try to see if anyone is interested in swapping - apparently there’s nothing wrong with it and this is just how it smells (popped into the one shop in my city that has them to investigate). Weird how perfume is so SO subjective - all of the Fragrantica reviews deceived this as a beautiful fresh rose with fruit and sugar and I read close to 100 reviews before buying it. It’s hard for me to process that no one else is experiencing this like I am because to me it’s just blinding pine sol floor cleaner and musks with a hint of rose.  I once heard that coriander/cilantro tastes completely different to a small minority of people like 8% or something experience it as a soapy taste. Maybe something similar is happening here?

Re: Fragrance Junkie Central

Kilian's releasing an LE flanker, Love Don't Be Shy, Rose and Oud. It's a little odd to me because the house used to have a Rose Oud fragrance which has since been discontinued and I wonder if they're related. The notes are Bulgarian rose, marshmallow and oud. The bottle looks kind of tacky Smiley Sad

 

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Re: Fragrance Junkie Central

Papillon is releasing its 6th fragrance, Bengale Rouge. This is probably one of my favourite niche houses so I'm really looking forward to trying this out! The notes are: Turkish Rose, Orris, Sandalwood, Tonka, Oakmoss, Honey, Vanilla, Labdanum, Benzoin and Sweet Myrrh

 

bengale rouge.jpg

Re: Fragrance Junkie Central

That sounds heavenly!

Re: Fragrance Junkie Central

An interesting article about the first perfume created completely by AI:

 

https://www dot dw.com/en/artificial-intelligence-creates-perfumes-without-being-able-to-smell-them/a-48989202

Re: Fragrance Junkie Central

@Mochapj, interesting link, thanks for sharing! I can see AI being helpful in that noses need to memorize thousands of ingredients and this could maybe help them give more consideration to forgotten or more obscure ones or just lighten the initial load so they can focus more on being creative. On the other hand, if every nose was to rely on the same algorithms, based entirely on previous formulas, that coupled with factoring in popularity suggests to me that this could push noses toward even greater homogenization in fragrance corporations.

Re: Fragrance Junkie Central

L'Artisan Parfumeur has come out with a new fragrance, Le Chant de Camargue, by the prolific Alberto Morillas who did CK One, Armani's Acqua di Gio, Gucci Bloom, a number of the Kilians and the new Chopard line, and a personal favourite, Amouage's Opus VII.

 

Notes for Le Chant de Camargue are bergamot, Camargue rice and sandalwood. The ad copy is pretty overblown as it tends to be with perfume

 

Morillas recalled the flights of pink flamingos and the Fêtes des Prémices du Riz - rice festivals - brought to life by the incredible parade of floats. But, first and foremost, the floral, powdery, creamy aroma of rice is indelibly etched in Alberto Morillas’s memory.

 

This aquatic, herbaceous plant is dark green to start with. It gradually turns a beautiful shade of amber at the start of the flowering season as it bends beneath the weight of its ears. Alberto Morillas creates a fragrance that smells "white" thanks to the aqueous floral notes of Hédione and Paradisone coupled with deliciously milky sandalwood and the beguiling aroma of "Camargue rice". The tribute to this Camargue treasure trove is so realistic and the blend of aromas and sensations so perfect that you could be strolling through a real paddy field.

 

0065148198-chant-de-camargue

I haven't tried others in the Les Paysages line, but I am curious about this one.

RE: Re: Fragrance Junkie Central

Ooh think looks so interesting! Sigh - I wish they would bring back Seville a l’aube it was beautiful!

Re: Fragrance Junkie Central

i bought this on a whim and it was one of the better impulsive decisions i've made. launched in 1990 jil sander no.4 smells exactly of its time: that 80s/early 90s spicy floral that was everywhere right before the reigning 90s trend of watery 'clean' scents took over. if you look at the notes--with plum, tuberose, carnation and musk--there can be an easy comparison to dior poison, but i find no.4 to be more refined. the inital blast is a full time warp, and sings of that particular ylang ylang - carnation accord, mixed with white flowers, that was present in so many of my mother's fragrances when i was growing up. (she never had this one, so it's a fun way for me to be nostalgic for my mom's scents while still having my 'own' version of it). many will undoubtedly find it dated, but i adore it and find it strong and sophisticated. what's more, though, is that the dry down is absolutely my favorite dry down of any fragrance i own. after 20 min to an hour it turns into a tonka-myrrh with musk binding it to the skin. not too sweet, the spices are still floating, just more quietly. 

0.jpgjil sander no.4

 

RE: Re: Fragrance Junkie Central

@jemly thank you so much for posting this flashback! I used to love and wear Jil Sander no 4. In 1990 I was still in college and working in cosmetics at a beautiful store in NYC. I don’t recall how I stumbled upon it, probably playing with fragrances on my off time. I just remember loving it so much! It was definitely more intense, more interesting, more... serious than the clean, crisp watery fragrances that popped up subsequently. It made me feel so mature and confident, and many other wonderful emotions. I completely forgot about this fragrance! It’s been a while since I’ve seen it, but it was a huge favourite back then. Time to start looking through old memento boxes. I thank you for this memory. It truly was a marvellous time to be a young girl. xoxo

Re: Fragrance Junkie Central

@jemly, that sounds fantastic! Not just the perfume notes, but how it connects you to your mother but that you still have a perfume of your own Smiley Happy I love older styles too, sometimes it feels like wearing a special vintage fashion piece.

Re: Fragrance Junkie Central

Has anyone tried Hiram Green? I kept reading good things about this all-naturals line so I bought the discovery set. I'm most excited to try Hyde which is smoky leather.

 

new-logo-hiram-green-new-bottles

Re: Fragrance Junkie Central

@pocketvenus  I have only sampled Slowdive and Hyde from this house.

 

Both are very good! Slowdive has the resins, beeswax, dried fruit and floral. Sweet without being overly sweet. Hyde is all about the smoky Birch Tar. Also, I do not believe there is leather in Hyde.

 

Although Hyde is an amazing smoky, it is one of those fragrances that is hard to find the right occasion to wear. Between the two, my vote goes to Slowdive for better versatility.

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