Fragrance Junkie Central

[Mochapj]

I know there are a few of us on BT that are fragrance addicts, so I thought it would be nice to have a dedicated place where we can share our thoughts.

This is not to take away from the lovely What Are You Wearing Today, Fragrance Edition thread, but more a place to post longer reviews, chat about new brands or releases, and just shoot the breeze on anything good and smelly 🙂

For me, I recently acquired 2 new decants that I've been anxiously awaiting.  Ever since Lachaton mentioned that MMM was releasing a new scent called By The Fireplace I've been itching to get my hands on it.  My decant arrived yesterday, so I'm looking forward to marinating in it this weekend.  Secondly, I recently picked up a tiny sample of Shiseido Nombre Noir.  Supposedly it is one of the most expensive failures in perfume history - made by Serge Lutens for Shiseido back in the 80s.  Of course, with a backstory like that, I was dying to get a sniff 😄

What's new on your scent radar?  Do tell!

 

[Samtian]

It's been a while! Started my Pan It! - 2025 Challenge . I do 12 travel size and 12 mini fragrances, one of each per month randomly chosen. Here is a photo of the ones for this year-

First up we have Tory Birch Bel Azuir. Not my photo but I am obsessed with the packaging-

This started off a very dreamy strong citrus scent. Just general citrus nothing particular stood out. It was like the perfect tropical beach scent, I didn't want to stop smelling it. The dry down was a neroli + vetiver base. Lasted about 8 hours. 4/5

Fragrantica notes- Bel Azur by Tory Burch is a Floral fragrance for women. Bel Azur was launched in 2017. Top note is Bergamot; middle notes are Neroli and Peony; base notes are Cedar and Vetiver.

Up next is the Atelier Clemintine California also not my photo. 

Started off with a very sharp citrus and juniper berry scent. I hadn't noticed that pre-covid. I really loved this before I got covid. I did detect all the middle notes, especially the basil and pepper. Dry down was a medical cypress and juniper. I did not like that at all. So of course I could faintly smell it the next day!!!  1/5

Fragrantica notes- Clémentine California by Atelier Cologne is a Citrus Aromatic fragrance for women and men. Clémentine California was launched in 2016. Top notes are Clementine, Mandarin Orange and juniper berry; middle notes are Basil, Star Anise and Pepper; base notes are Cypress, Haitian Vetiver and Sandalwood.

I might start chat gp these so they sound smarter lol. I rotate these and the regular sample vial I use on work days. I have multiple of the Atelier, so for now at least this larger one is going to be destashed. 

[fatimamummy]

I hope everyone's 2025 is off to a good start. Winter is on full swing so here is a fragrance that I'll call my favourite new discovery of this season. 

Mind Games Opera Mate: This is the most exquisite roasted chestnut fragrance. If you want to picture how it smells,

imagine yourself in a cozy wood cabin, curled up by the fireplace, savoring freshly roasted chestnuts with a warm cup of coffee in hand. Off in the distance, a bowl of crème brûlée sits tempting on the kitchen counter. The soft, comforting scent of sandalwood wafts through the air, blending with the subtle hints of suede from your well-worn couch. Mind Game's Opera Mate exudes just that kind of warmth and charm.

Roasted chestnut was the note that first caught my attention with Opera Mate, and I'm pleased to say it fully delivers. From start to finish, this fragrance celebrates roasted chestnut in all its warm, nutty glory. The opening is more woody, with a subtle creamy sweetness, but soon the roasted chestnut takes over.

There's a hint of smoke with a soft caramelized sweetness that smooths out the scent, adding a creamy feel, but it never veers into full sweet gourmand territory. For me, it's a cozy, creamy, nutty gourmand fragrance resting on a woody base. 

It has a well balanced unisex profile that makes it wearable for just about anyone. As always if you are interested in more in depth review , you can read it on my blog.

When I shared it on other platforms, the most common question in comments and private messages was about it's comparison to Maison Margiela ‘REPLICA' By the Fireplace Eau de Toilette with Chestnut, Vanilla, and Clove Oil 3.4... . Luckily I have By the Fire Place at hand so I was able to compare the two side by side. Instead of cluttering this review, I am going to leave a short comparison in the comments for anyone here who is interested.

Opera Mate is one of the two latest releases from The Mind Games Fragrances that dropped just before Christmas. At this time it is exclusive to brand's own website. 

[fatimamummy]

I believe roasted chestnut is the note which is calling for the comparison but honestly these two fragrances are quite different. I love them both but they are not quite the same.

By the fire place is more Smokey than nutty and vanilla is very prominent. Chestnut is more subtle and slightly synthetic. While Opera Mate has more authentic roasted chestnut notes and a creamy texture. Sweetness comes from caramel and Creme brûlée which is softly peeking from behind the sandal wood and chest nut and not as strong as vanilla in By the fire place. Roasted chestnut takes centre stage in Opera Mate while Vanilla is the most stand out note in By the Fire Place. 

[fatimamummy]

A fragrance that looks and smells festive, that is what I want to share with you all in the spirit of holiday season. 

Atelier Des Ors Pink Me Up: First the presentation can't get anymore festive. A playful, uplifting and radiant fragrance sprinkled with gold flakes and housed in a work-of-art ombré pink bottle.

It opens with a bright, fruity burst of bergamot and orange blossoms, enhanced by a playful, fizzy sparkle. The rose note takes center stage right from the start and remains prominent throughout, perfectly balanced by the fruity sweetness of blackberry and sparkling champagne accord. As it settles, the rose and champagne linger beautifully, joined by a powdery and earthy base of musk, iris, and patchouli. 

If I am to define it in simples term, I'll call it a Rose Champagne fragrance with the touch of fruity and woody notes. 

It has a great projection and longevity on my skin is very impressive. I could smell it through the day until I took shower next morning. Here I would like to mention that fragrance tend to fade much faster in wrists (at least for me) so when I try a fragrance for review, I also spray it on the crease of my elbows so I can take notes of how fragrance develops and also can get a better sense of longevity on skin.

If you have any questions, feel free to ask and I'll try to answer as best as I can.

               

[Shosh85]

@fatimamummy  Such a beautiful description of this fragrance! The bottle itself and the photos you took are just gorgeous! 🤩

[fatimamummy]

@Shosh85 Thank you! The fragrance profile matches its appearance. Very bubbly and festive.

[itsfi]

@fatimamummy, the notes on this one sound beautiful and what a stunning bottle. Your photos are gorgeous and showcases its marvelous packaging! 😘

[fatimamummy]

Thank you @itsfi It is a beautiful fresh fragrance. One of the very few in my shelf that is youthful enough for my daughter.

[Titian06]

The bottle is so pretty, @fatimamummy ! 😍

[fatimamummy]

@Titian06 I love the overall presentation with bottle and gold flakes.

[PDXXXX]

I first became aware of Matiere Premiere fragrances wanting to try their Vanilla Powder scent. It's a pricey line so I treated myself to their Discovery Set with three 6 ml bottles. In addition to Vanilla Powder, I chose Santal Austral and Bois D'Ebene, as I love creamy, powdery, and sometimes musky woods.

I opened the set and began last night with Bois D'Ebene:

HOW MATIERE DESCRIBES BOIS D'EBENE:

• INITIAL IDEA:  “A dark ambery wood”
• MAIN INGREDIENT: Guaiac Wood Oil Paraguay
• CREATIVE APPROACH: Strengthen the wood density of Guaiac with Patchouli Oil Indonesia and Cypriol Oil India. The ambery facet is accentuated by the addition of Cabreuva Oil Brazil.

MY IMPRESSIONS:

• The scent opened for me with a strong Cypriol/Amber scent and projected quite a bit more than I was comfortable with but also smelled good (just to anyone within about 6 feet of me too),
• As the initial impression dried down, I mostly smelled Creamy Amber and Guaiac Woods and it projected less but was still strong,
• Waking up after applying it last night, it has settled into a soft powdery amber, softer notes from the Guaiac woods with a bit of patchouli. This is not your college roommate's feral, dark patchouli though, it is softer with a silvery, cedar edge that dries down to being a much more personal scent than experienced in the opening.

Spoiler

For those not familiar with Cypriol scents, they are woody with elements of vetiver, patchouli, and cedar with elements of spice like black pepper and bay leaf. I would say the opening of this fragrance smelled most like Amber with bay leaf, vetiver, and cedar. Likewise, Guaiac Woods have a scent profile that can be described as smoky, woody, and slightly sweet or balsamic. I'm usually a Sandalwood lover and am just discovering Guaiac Woods. So far I find they have a creamy, sweeter element than Sandalwood.

OVERALL THOUGHTS SO FAR:

• This is a scent that develops a story as it unfolds over time. It's very present 15 or so hours in and truly composed in a way that takes you on a journey from one ingredient to the other,
• I really like the full dry down that smells closer to the skin this morning but would say the Amber and Guaiac Woods dominate this fragrance for most the wear. Definitely a scent for people who like creamy Amber with a bit of a sharp cedar/bay leaf edge,
• Love the simple packaging and design. I don't know if this will be the scent for me vs. the others I selected but it's a generously sized bottle for a discovery set and I will revisit it. The packaging feels substantial and is well-designed. Even the 6 ml bottles probably wouldn't come close to shattering if accidentally dropped on the floor.

SCENTS THIS REMINDS ME OF:

• The discontinued Siberian Snow by Dean & Durga,
• Ellis Brooklyn MYTH perhaps layered with their AMBER.

[itsfi]

@PDXXXX, love your description of this scent. This is the first I've heard of the house but I'm a fan of EB Myth so this one piques my curiosity. Great to know this has a more refined patchouli scent too.

[fatimamummy]

@PDXXXX I have seen and read about this house but haven't had the opportunity to try them so far. For me dry down scent is most important and from your review I feel Bois D'Ebene serves a gorgeous dry down scent.I am adding it to my "need to check" list and would love to hear your thoughts on other fragrances from the set.

[PDXXXX]

@fatimamummy I'm excited to try the Bois D'Ebene again. I have since tried the Santal Austral and will say that, as a sandalwood lover, the quality of the ingredients was there, but it was fairly one-note: what you get when first applied is what you get on the dry down. So far the common denominator with both scents has been their longevity. I think I applied the Santal Austral four days ago and can still smell the dry down as I could with the Bois D'Ebene. I'll let you know how the Vanilla Powder goes when I get to it! I'm curious if, like the others, the long dry-down is there. There are a lot of intriguing scents in the Matiere line. I was surprised how much more I liked the Bois D'Ebene than the Santal.

[fatimamummy]

I have been testing out a little something different last week. A fragrance brand Affinessence Paris, What is different about them is the linear characteristic of their fragrances. Instead of typical Hierarchy of top, heart and base notes, they offer three separate collections, one dedicated to each type of notes. that means their fragrance do not change or evolve on skin after applying and remain the same from start to end.

I was testing a fragrance named CUIR CURCUMA from their base notes collection . As name suggests, all the notes in this fragrance are the ones which are typically used as base notes. 

It is a turmeric-leather fragrance with other notes including Sandalwood, Orris, Myrhh, Benzoin and Patchouli. Turmeric is stand out ingredient with a light powdery spicy aroma. Leather is much softer and creamy, more complimenting other notes instead of overpowering. I can detect all the other notes blended to perfection. I know too long of a post can get boring so defining it in one line, it is a smooth, creamy, cozy , a little spicy and slightly powdery scent. 

Here is one thing, it is a base notes fragrance and brand defines it as the collection with strongest trail however to me it is a fragrance that sits closer to the skin. 

I find the projection more on the moderate side. Initial moderate intensity lasts on my skin for about an hour before it changes into a skin scent and completely disappears in about five hours. That was a little unexpected so I wore it for three consecutive days with different activity levels before I sat down to write blog last night. Intensity and longevity both remained the same for me during all three trials.It can be just my skin's chemistry or maybe it really is not as strong and long lasting. 

Given that I really enjoyed the scent, I wouldn't mind reapplying it during the day because composition is truly beautiful, however it is something to keep in mind if you want your fragrance to last all day long without reapplying. 

Like most niche fragrances, it is on the pricier side so definitely try a sample first. I am not sure if brand offers individual sample sizes for purchase but most e-commerace  fragrances retailers sell sample vials for all fragrances they carry. 

I feel mentioning where to buy it from feels like a promotion so I will just say if you can't find any fragrance I post about, send me a DM and I'll be happy to suggest the places to buy. 

[itsfi]

This is the first I’ve heard of the brand @fatimamummy; I’m intrigued. Based on your experience with this fragrance, would  you purchase fragrances from their top and heart collections? 

[fatimamummy]

@itsfi After trying this fragrance, I spent some time reading the reviews on their other base note fragrances and it sounds like other scents are actually stronger and long lasting. I would love to try more from base collection.

The fragrances in Heart Notes collection don't stand out for me when reading the descriptions and I can be totally wrong but if given the opportunity, I would love to try Gingembre-Latte from top notes collection. 

[itsfi]

Oooouuuhh, gimgembre-latte sounds marvelous @fatimamummy. 

[Titian06]

This sounds like an interesting concept, @fatimamummy !  Nice review too. 😍  I like knowing more than less.

[fatimamummy]

Thank you @Titian06  Sometimes When I start writing I tend to be carried away and go too deep 😂