Glycolic Acid vs Lactic Acid

[MSolitaire]

What’s the difference of Glycolic Acid and Lactic Acid for face skin treatment? I’m new to this whole skincare regime and I guess it’s better late than never. I have heard lots of things regarding using Glycolic Acid and Lactic Acid for your skin but I’m just not sure which I should buy? Should I have both? What do you use? Thanks in advance! Sending positive vibes your way! 🤗

[pianolover]

What an awesome conversation and info galore.

‘Thanks guys!

[greeneyedgirl107]

@MSolitaire Found this from Paula Begoun.  I like how it compares the AHAs:

Glycolic Acid

Among all of the alpha hydroxy acids, glycolic acid is the gold standard. That’s because it’s the most researched and, along with lactic acid, has the best track record of impressive results for all ages and all skin types.

What makes glycolic acid so special is its size and ability to penetrate the uppermost layers of built-up skin to reveal the better-looking skin hiding beneath. It also has a natural ability to hydrate skin, “teaching” it to become better at retaining its natural moisture.

If that weren’t enough, glycolic acid used alone or with other AHAs at concentrations of 5% and up help enhance skin’s look of firmness and resilience while softening other signs of sun damage.

Although glycolic acid can be derived from sugarcane, the synthetic form is the one most often used in skincare products because it’s easier to stabilize.

Lactic Acid

Lactic acid does everything glycolic acid does, but just a bit slower because it’s a little bit larger, which slightly reduces its ability to penetrate skin’s outermost layer. Topical lactic acid in concentrations of 2% and up can hydrate skin; when used alone or with other AHAs, it begins working as an exfoliant at a 5% concentration, with amounts between 5% and 10% considered ideal for skincare products meant to exfoliate.

Although lactic acid can be derived from milk, the synthetic form is used most often in skincare products because it’s easier to stabilize and ensure consistent results.

Malic Acid

This AHA can be derived from apples or produced synthetically; the synthetic version is the popular choice for skincare for the same reasons mentioned above for glycolic and lactic acids.

Malic acid is larger than glycolic and lactic acids, but is still able to exfoliate, and it also delivers antioxidant benefits. Malic acid in concentrations of 1% to 2% is a good supporting player when included in AHA exfoliants led by glycolic and lactic acids—you get a nice multi-level exfoliation. It’s typically not used alone as it’s not considered as effective as glycolic or lactic acids.

Tartaric Acid

Tartaric acid is larger in size than malic acid and is nearly twice as large as glycolic acid. It occurs naturally in grapes (and, it follows, in red wine), but is also made synthetically, which is the form typically used in skincare products.

Although tartaric acid can exfoliate skin when used in roughly the same concentrations as glycolic or lactic acids, it functions best in helping to maintain the pH range that other AHAs need to work their magic. In certain formulas, it helps provide more targeted exfoliation, as each size of AHA has its layer-by-layer benefits.

Citric Acid

Citric acid comes from various citrus fruits but also can be made synthetically. Although in higher concentrations (around 10% and up) it can exfoliate skin, it’s also considered more irritating due to its naturally lower and skin-sensitizing pH of 2.2.

Low amounts of citric acid show up in many skincare products where it works as an antioxidant as well as a pH adjuster, keeping formulas within the pH range they need to be effective yet gentle.

Some AHA products contain citrus extracts that the brand claims work like natural AHAs. That sounds good, but published research hasn’t proven such extracts are useful to exfoliate skin.

Mandelic Acid

This AHA isn’t as widely used as other AHAs because there isn’t as much research supporting its use. But, mandelic acid shouldn’t be overlooked; its larger size—it’s the biggest AHA—means slower penetration into skin, making it an intriguing choice for sensitive skin.

Research has also shown that mandelic acid can prompt skin to make more oil—not great news for oily or breakout-prone skin, but helpful for those with dry skin.

Concentration ranges haven’t been specified for mandelic acid in skincare products. Research on using it as a peel and for other purposes has involved concentrations between 20% and 40%, amounts we’ve never seen in skincare products.

[MSolitaire]

Wow! This is beyond helpful! Thank you so so much for the info!! 🤓💯👌🏽

[WinglessOne]

@MSolitaire  I’ll mostly agree with what’s already been said, but I have one disagreement: 

Depending on your skin type and tolerance, there’s nothing wrong with using both glycolic and lactic acids—eh, also depending on the percentage of both acids. Several AHA exfoliation productions contain a mix of glycolic and lactic acids. The one I use, FIRST AID BEAUTY - FAB Skin Lab Resurfacing Liquid 10% AHA, contains 4 AHAs: glycolic, lactic, tartaric, and malic. 

The greater danger of over-exfoliating comes with overusing an exfoliant, regardless of which AHAs are in it. Your skin barrier (aka moisture barrier) is made of dead skin cells. Strip them away too frequently and you’ll “break” the barrier, leaving your skin wide open to bad bacteria and dehydration. I used to exfoliate 5-6 times a week which is generally too frequent. When I started retinol—and after my dermatologist scolded me for over-exfoliating—I cut my AHA exfoliation down to 1-3 times a week. I’ve maintained that frequency ever since. This also lets me occasionally layer my retinol serum and AHA exfoliant on the same night with no irritation, since I’m no longer over-exfoliating. 

If you’ve considered buying 2 separate AHA products (1 glycolic and 1 lactic), then I’d say just pick one. Don’t try to combine/layer them yourself without input from a doctor, especially if you’re new to AHA exfoliation. Also, you don’t really need both acids in an AHA exfoliant. They’ll both do the job just fine. Some folks’ skin tolerates lactic acid better than glycolic acid. It mostly depends on your particular skin’s tolerance. 

My intro to chemical exfoliation was FIRST AID BEAUTY - Facial Radiance Pads. It contains both glycolic and lactic acids at a very gentle 5% AHA concentration. It’s an effective exfoliant and a good way to ease your skin into AHA use. If you want to try these, I recommend buying the smaller jar (though it’s less cost effective than the 60-pad jar) or, if you’re interested in other FAB products, buying a kit of minis that includes a sample pack of these pads. 

[MSolitaire]

Thank you for that! That was helpful! 🤗

[Brutalitops]

@MSolitaire  Everything I came here to say has already been covered so I'll just say that you do definitely need to get a good moisturizer and sunscreen lined up first but a nice budget AHA option is The Ordinary Glycolic Acid 7% Exfoliating Toner 8 oz/ 240 mL applied with a cotton pad after cleansing and before moisturizing. I personally use FARMACY - HONEYMOON GLOW AHA Resurfacing Night Serum with Hydrating Honey + Gentle Flower Acids because the blend of acids including BHAs (salicylic acid, usually) is what works best for me, especially as I have acne prone skin. As was mentioned below, I started with once every few days use before slowly ramping up to using most nights as this product is quite strong- it really is important to have patience and help out your skin with adequate moisturizer in the intervening nights

[MSolitaire]

Thank you!!

[quspork]

To build off of what @Kim888 said (all of which I agree with) here's a little bit more info I lifted from labmuffin's blog:

All the AHAs have slightly different potency/side effect profiles too. Glycolic acid is the most potent and can give the most dramatic results. This is due to the fact that it’s the smallest so it gets through skin most easily, plus it means that in an 8% glycolic acid product, you’ll have more AHA molecules than in an 8% product of any other AHA. On the other hand, this also means that it’s the most likely to cause side effects, particularly for people prone to post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation or PIH (generally, people with darker skin). Most of the information we have on AHAs is based on glycolic acid studies. (Side note: it’s highly probable that the other AHAs work similarly to glycolic acid, but it’s possible that scientists will later find major differences between the AHAs). Lactic acid is larger than glycolic and generally causes less side effects, presumably because it penetrates less deeply into the skin. Mandelic acid is larger still – it’s the AHA most often recommended for PIH-prone skin.

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I personally have had better results with lactic acid, as my skin doesn't respond as well to glycolic, but that required lots of trial and error to figure out. In addition to starting slowly, I'd also highly recommend not starting an exfoliating acid until after you have a good moisturizer and sunscreen for every day use.  @MSolitaire 

[MSolitaire]

Thank you for the helpful information! I really appreciate it! 🤗

[Kim888]

@MSolitaire Glycolic and Lactic Acids are both AHAs. AHAs can target a host of skin concerns including uneven skin texture and color, acne, and fine lines. Glycolic Acid and Lactic Acid are derived from different ingredient sources. You do not need both; using both at the same time would likely result in over exfoliating your skin. Glycolic acid is generally considered to be a bit stronger of an acid. 

Objectively, neither one is better than the other. My skin happens to get a long better with Glycolic acid than lactic, but I definitely had to trial and error that.

If you are just starting with acids, start with every 3 days and then build up to more. 

[MSolitaire]

Thank you! This is really helpful! Glad I didn’t just splurge and order one of each! 😂🙈 I’ll give them each a try and see what my skin likes better. Thank you! 🤗