@jemimori Good approach. I’m all for listening to your skin and building a routine around your specific needs and goals. It’s much more satisfying and beneficial than chasing “perfect” skin.
I have a fairly simple base routine and add things as needed. I also swap out certain products for climate/weather changes—and there’s been plenty of that this year (midwestern spring brought its A game this year). For reference, my skin’s mostly-dry combo (my oily zone’s just on and around my nose), quite inflammation-prone, and fragrance-sensitive. I’m mainly treating large areas of hyperpigmentation, surface redness, some perimenopausal acne, overactive yeast (seborrheic dermatitis), and dryness. I’m a PM shower person, so face washing happens mostly at night.
- Wash (PM, optional AM) - for nighttime, I alternate La Roche-Posay Mela B3 Gel Cleanser and Abib Mild Heartleaf Foam Cleanser. Morning’s usually just a gentle wipe-down with a wet microfiber cloth. But if I do need AM cleanser, I use either The INKEY List Hydrating Cream-To-Milk Cleanser, a cleansing balm, or micellar water (either COSRX’s or Anua’s)—and usually only where needed, like around my eyes.
Add-ins: If my oily zone gets very flaky, I use Nizoral shampoo on my face to get that yeast back under control. (Ketoconazole works best for me, and luckily Nizoral’s heavy fragrance doesn’t tick my skin off.) If I’m having an angry red or flaky skin reaction to something else, I use The INKEY List Oat Makeup Removing Cleansing Balm 5 oz/ 150 mL as a soothing 10 minute mask, then massage the La Roche-Posay cleanser over it and rinse everything off.
- Treat (PM & AM) - 10% azelaic acid twice a day: either Anua Azelaic Acid 10 Hyaluron Serum, Peach Slices Redness Relief Azelaic Acid Serum, or Paula's Choice 10% Azelaic Acid Booster for Redness Relief 1/30. Retinaldehyde (MediK8 Crystal 20) each night. Mornings and some nights, I use The Ordinary Multi-Peptide + Copper Peptides 1% for Wrinkles and Skin Elasticity 1 oz / 30 ml as an eye serum.
Add-ins: either The Ordinary Multi-Peptide + Hyaluronic Acid Serum for Firmness and Elasticity or the copper version (mentioned above), when my skin needs a hydration boost. Some mornings I use a vitamin C serum (Poems From The Lab Future Focus Serum) and/or Paula's Choice 10% Niacinamide Booster 0.67 oz/ 20 mL to give my retinal a little help. If I’ve got time and need even more hydration + some skin soothing, I’ll use a sheet mask; my longtime favorite is Abib Mild Acidic pH Heartleaf Fit. I exfoliate 1-3x/week with Paula’s Choice RESIST Advanced Smoothing Treatment 10% AHA or The Ordinary Lactic Acid 10% + HA 2% High-Strength Exfoliating Serum for Uneven Texture 1 oz/ 30 mL . And I use a Paula’s Choice salicylic acid product as needed for acne: either their 4% BHA, CLEAR Anti-Redness Exfoliating Solution (regular strength), or BHA 9 Treatment.
- Moisturize (PM, optional AM) - usually CeraVe Moisturizing Lotion, but this spring I’ve been using Cetaphil Moisturizing Lotion instead. If my skin’s in angry reaction mode, I use Aveeno Skin Relief body lotion or Aveeno Eczema Therapy cream on my face (hooray colloidal oats!). AM is optional in hot weather, when I skip moisturizer and let sunscreen handle this step.
Add-ins: in windy subzero weather, I might apply Aquaphor Ointment or CeraVe Ointment on top of moisturizer, either on my whole face or just in certain places I tend to get chapping/windburn. If my skin’s flaky dry any time of year, I might apply a thin layer of facial oil underneath moisturizer, usually either BYOMA Hydrating Recovery Oil or The Ordinary 100% Organic Cold-Pressed Rose Hip Seed Oil for Skin Elascicity 1 oz/ 30 mL.
- Sunscreen (AM) - my usual go-tos are #Supergoop! Unseen Sunscreen Invisible Broad Spectrum SPF 50 PA +++ (though I find it a bit greasier than the old SPF 40 formula) and SKIN1004 Madagascar Centella Hyalu-Cica Water-Fit Serum UV (the Korean formula, which I order from J/K-beauty retailers), but I rotate several others throughout the year.
Oh, and sometimes I still use a hydrating mist at various points of my skincare routine, usually when my skin’s in serious need of extra hydration. I still love COSRX Centella Water Alcohol-Free Toner or Timeless HA Matrixyl 3000 + Cucumber Spray for this.