Layering Acids

[scarletb]

So I always thought you Exfoliate BEFORE vitamin C but I’ve been seeing that it is better to apply vitamin c first. I have use the FIRST AID BEAUTY - Facial Radiance Pads for the AM- so super gentle - but it doesn’t make sense to me to wipe a pad after I just put in a serum wouldn’t that wipe it away?

[WinglessOne]

@scarletb  I use a vitamin C serum each morning. On the mornings I also use an AHA and/or BHA, the exfoliant is first and vitamin C is second. I do this with my dermatologist’s blessing. He’s one of 2 derms who’ve explained to me that one product’s high pH can’t change a lower product’s pH (or vice versa) on your skin or render that product ineffective. It’s fine to use a chemical exfoliant and then follow it with vitamin C or any other product, depending on your particular skin’s tolerance of each product. 

I usually exfoliate at night, but sometimes I’ll do it in the morning. Depending on how my skin’s behaving and which exfoliant I use, an AHA and/or BHA sometimes serves as my toner step. And I like to remove dead skin cells (and in the case of BHA, attack bad bacteria and degunk my pores) before moving on with my skincare routine—though if I forget to exfoliate before applying a serum, I’ll do it afterward with no trouble. AHA and BHA work just on the surface layer of your skin, unlike vitamin C and other ingredients that penetrate deeper. 

[scarletb]

@WinglessOne Thanks! I don't always exfoliate in the AM but sometimes I like to do a light one.  This is interesting that your derm told you this, I will definitely ask my derm when I go in June to see what she says!

[isaabella]

I recommend exfoliating and then using your vitamin C. The whole point of exfoliating is to get rid of dead skin cells for better penetration of products. Using vitamin C after exfoliating will boost its brightening and anti-aging benefits. Just make sure to wait ~10 mins between exfoliating and using vitamin C because layering it right away can cause irritation.

[quspork]

@scarletb It will not wipe away the serum. The reason for using vitamin C first is because it requires a lower pH level to really do its best work than AHAs and BHAs. Some people like to use wait times around actives - this is something I do routinely. Just wait 15 minutes after applying vitamin C before moving on to the next step. But you don't have to. 

All that said, just keep an eye on your skin and how it reacts. For some people using multiple actives like vitamin C and AHAs in the same routine might be irritating to the skin, but that's highly dependent on your own skin. 

[scarletb]

Thanks @quspork ! I am definitely careful when adding more than one active I love that the Radiance pads are so gentle. I do wait in between but not 15 min, maybe I will give that a try so that I’m sure it’s seeped in. 

But speaking of longer wait times, what about wait times as it relates to trans epidermal water loss? I’m not putting my moisturizer on ASAP considering I have other steps I’m between but does it add to TWL if you wait longer ? 

[quspork]

@scarletb Honestly, I don't worry too much about TEWL since the only waiting I do is after actives and I always end with moisturizer. Everything else goes on pretty much as soon as I've finished patting in the previous product.

If you're interested in checking out some of the science behind pH and various actives there's some great info on the labmuffin and snowwhiteandtheasianpear websites. 

[scarletb]

thanks @quspork !