THE AVANT GARDE

[jemly]

we all are here because we love makeup. the objects, the rituals, the glamor. but what inspires us can differ....

here is a little corner of BIC for those who find their heart races at the cosmetic avant-garde. sometimes minimal, other times over-the-top, often confounding just about always awe-inspiring. and then sometimes....it just doesn't work. and that's fun to discuss too.

left: serge lutens for dior cosmetics, 1970s. right: inge grognard for dries van noten runway show a/w 1997

from the vintage avant-garde a-la serge lutens at dior to the 90s runway looks from inge grognard to modern day editorial concepts by up and coming makeup artists, the common thread between them all is the pushing of boundaries. if these concepts intrigue and inspire you, welcome !

[jemly]

the infamous lips at the comme des garcons a/w 2004. Makeup: Pat McGrath

[fairlywell]

@jemly Good thread! I love it, I'm just too jolly-cheeked to wear it. I love the artistry though.

[jemly]

@fairlywell no wearing required ! xo

[jemly]

my main man. initially inspired by kabuki traditions.

[jemly]

inge grognard for maison martin margiela

[Mochapj]

I came across these 2 images recently, created by MUA Timothy Hung. I was initially just taken by the imagery, but upon further investigation it seems they were either inspired by or in promotion of the KVD Saint and Sinner fragrances

[jemly]

as i've often discussed over my years here on the forum, until my late twenties i had a conflicting relationship to makeup. i wasn't sure what role it played in my life. was it social obligation ? i didn't like that ! (even though i still enjoyed and treasured some makeup products and rituals). was it self expression ? i LIKED that, but didn't exactly have the tools or knowledge to develop that language even further.

...until i discovered the makeup artistry / photography / art direction of serge lutens. 

it all started with this image:

it was around 2011 i was in my mid 20s. i instantly went out and bought a matte foundation (first time in my life that sort of look appealed to me). it was NARS sheer matte foundation in siberia. for a year the only other makeup i wore--other than that foundation--was varying shades of matte red lipsticks (from a now defunct yet brilliant REVLON matte lipstick range) and an eyebrow pencil. and in this process my relationship to makeup changed forever. i felt powerful and deliberate. and ok with that. 

at the beginning of his tenure at shiseido, he filmed this ad for jun rope in japan:

ad for shiseido:

don't get me wrong, i have a sense of humor. i loved how ridiculous and severe these were. they're so sincere without a hint of irony. which, frankly, i find refreshing these days. i still laugh everytime i watch these ads, but we are multifaceted creatures--i could laugh at it while still admiring the bravery in genuine sincerity. and loving the vibes of the makeup too, of course !