Retinol Alternatives

[Cloakie]

Hi All, I’m in my early 30s, and dermatologists have been pushing retinols. However, I recently learned that retinols are bad for dry eye disease- and my ophthalmologist informed me that retinols are bad as they worsen meibomian gland dysfunction and to not use them.

What alternative products do you recommend for anti-aging? I already use hyaluronic acid (not sure if squalene is better), and have used vitamin c which seems to help fine lines. I also have dry and very sensitive skin.

Thank you!

[WinglessOne]

Hi @Cloakie ! The issue with vitamin A (retinoic acid/tretinoin, retinaldehyde/retinal, retinol, and other retinoids) is using it around the eyes: 

Spoiler

A retinoid should never be brought all the way up or down to your lash lines anyway. But some eye doctors also recommend keeping if completely off your undereyes and upper lids (I’d never use it on my lids regardless), avoiding the entire orbital bone area of your face when applying a retinoid. The last eye doc I saw was fine with this approach. 

For extra insurance, you can apply a petroleum-based balm (Aquaphor Ointment, CeraVe Healing Ointment, Vaseline, etc.) around your eyes before applying a retinoid to the rest of your face. This helps protect your eye area, plus acts as an occlusive (water loss preventing) moisturizing eye cream. 

I know some eye docs tell folks not to use retinoids at all. Whether or not you go that route is up to you and what you think is best for yourself. I use retinaldehyde nightly and keep it away from my eyes. But I do occasionally also apply a low-medium strength retinol to my undereyes, being careful not to bring it up to my lash line. My eyes have always had issues (they’re sensitive and prone to infections), so I do what I can to keep them safe while also treating the rest of my face. 

The best preventative anti-aging skincare product on the market is broad spectrum sunscreen (minimum SPF 30) applied to ALL skin exposed to sunlight (eyelids, ears, behind ears, hairline, nape of neck if exposed, etc.) and reapplied every couple hours, all year long, regardless of weather or season. Many signs of aging, including some wrinkles, are caused by UV damage. Do you already use sunscreen? 

Hyaluronic acid is a humectant: it draws moisture into your skin. Squalane is more of an emollient moisturizer: it helps prevent moisture from escaping your skin. Both ingredients work very well together, but I can’t say one’s better than the other since they do different things. 

Bakuchiol needs more clinical study to back all the “same results as retinol” claims, but that’s an option to consider. Bakuchiol is not part of the vitamin A family and doesn’t work the same way retinoids do. I don’t know offhand if it’s been studied much for eye safety. 

If you already have some lines, especially static lines (they appear even when your face is completely still), argireline may help soften them. It reduces some muscle movements that cause wrinkles. It’s not Botox, which works differently and is better for preventing new dynamic lines (lines that appear when you make facial expressions). 

EDIT: couldn’t tag anything before. Consider The Ordinary Argireline Solution 10% for Reducing Fine Lines 1 oz/ 30 mL 

[CynthieLu]

You should look into The Ordinary "Buffet" + Copper Peptides 1% 1 oz/ 30 mL  or SEPHORA COLLECTION Targeted Anti-Aging Bakuchiol Serum 1 oz / 30 mL , you'll have to really check ingredients in anti aging products (these ones as well) to see if there are no forms of retinol present and run it by your doctor in case they effect dry eye disease. But it's somewhere to start looking bakuchi and copper peptides are marketed as anti aging but not sure if they are always retinol or retinol derivative free @Cloakie 

[Cloakie]

Thank you so much!!