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Fragrance Junkie Central

I know there are a few of us on BT that are fragrance addicts, so I thought it would be nice to have a dedicated place where we can share our thoughts.


This is not to take away from the lovely What Are You Wearing Today, Fragrance Edition thread, but more a place to post longer reviews, chat about new brands or releases, and just shoot the breeze on anything good and smelly Smiley Happy


For me, I recently acquired 2 new decants that I've been anxiously awaiting.  Ever since Lachaton mentioned that MMM was releasing a new scent called By The Fireplace I've been itching to get my hands on it.  My decant arrived yesterday, so I'm looking forward to marinating in it this weekend.  Secondly, I recently picked up a tiny sample of Shiseido Nombre Noir.  Apparently it is one of the most expensive failures in perfume history - made by Serge Lutens for Shiseido back in the 80s.  Of course, with a backstory like that, I was dying to get a sniff Smiley Very Happy


What's new on your scent radar?  Do tell!



Re: Fragrance Junkie Central

Fun thread! I am a huge fragrance junkie. Before makeup I was actually into perfume. My first love since I was 14..I probably have about 15-20 bottles. I just recently got Tom Ford Noir from Barney's. Love that for fall. Today I was at the Nordstrom Beauty Trendshow and tested out this from Diptyque

Essences Incensées - Jasmin' Eau de Parfum (Limited Edition)

Pardon my French I dare not try to pronounce or type that so I copied it Smiley Wink It's really pretty. I have a few bottles of Guerlain Terracotta Le Parfum and it reminds me of Terracotta. Jasmine, orange blossom, and basil. The Diptyque regional rep was there and told me there are only like 1000 or was it 5000 bottles made. They do a limited edition fragrance every year. Which probably means I'll break down and buy it.

The other thing on my radar is I'm dying to get Chanel Les Exclusive Beige and Gardenia. And interestingly, I discovered it costs a heck of a lot less in France! So do a lot of perfumes that are manufactured there. I bought Maison Francis K Aqua Vitae Forta at Neimans and come to find out later from my contact in France it's less there than in the US!

Re: Fragrance Junkie Central

Puppy likes M.K. samples.

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Playing with my new goodies from L'Antichambre. Wearing 2 today (not layering yet): Le Chocolat, but Poivre Rose on the wrists.


I was already very decidedly in love with Chocolat so yay - more love there! Poivre is interesting, and I think it is a winner. It is peppery... like, when I smell Chocolat, it transports me back to a really Rainy April I spent in Paris several years ago, and we went to Angelina. I feel like I'm smelling the cocoa powder for the hot chocolate.


With the poivre, I get a peppercorn vibe, but there is something incensy to it, and I'm smelling faint hints of lavender. So it has a nice little bit of sweetness to it. It's not pulling masculine either. I like it! 

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So the Derek Lam set...the initial impressions are that the fragrances smell very commercial. I took a whiff a couple of nights ago and wasn't really sure this was going to be for me. Every time I thought about them yesterday, I just kept thinking "DKNY." To me they just smelled like clean and basic fragrances. 


Last st night I went through each one...there's one that gave me a Marc Jacobs Daisy vibe...which is not for me. At least 1, but possibly 2 reminded me of Victoria's Secret scents - definitely not a good thing. 


I am wearing the one that I thought might be the most promising - 2am Kiss. There's no info on the notes and my nose isn't as trained as most of you fine ladies, so please forgive me Smiley Happy. When I first sprayed it, there was something that reminded me of the MMM Replica By the Fireplace - not the smokiness but the chestnuts on the fire bit. But there was also a soapiness that I get from Beach Walk. 


As its settling has notes similar to Tom Ford Noir Pour Femme, but I don't find it to have the same depth or level of spice. I don't know, there is something that my nose identifies as soapy that is lingering. Something kind of sour too. 

Re: Fragrance Junkie Central

I am sitting here in a cloudy haze of perfume.


Starting to work my way through my gigantic pile of decants, samples, minis, etc.


I've started with a few Tauers that came recently when I purchased Phi, since they were on the top of the pile.


04 Reverie Au Jardin Pour Elle and 011 Carillon Pour Un Ange.  


011 is very white flower heavy.  In fact, when I applied it the first thing that came to mind was flower BOMB (not the V&R frag, but a punch in the face of flowers).  It receded into a crabtree and evelyn soapy background.  I had high hopes for this one as a marriage of white florals, lilac and leather, but it's not for me.


04 is sweet lavender candy.  It sort of reminds me of the scent/flavor of Thrills gum, actually (which is rosewater)  The longer I wear it, the sweeter it's getting.  I feel like it could give me a toothache.  It has a very fake, cough syrupy quality to it I'm not a fan of.  There is a touch of frankincense, but I have to strain to find it.  Disappoint Smiley Sad

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Soooo I finally tracked down a couple of vials of Aerin Rose de Grasse. 


Sadly, second time around, I can still barely smell this on my wrist. It's better than the last time when I smelled absolutely nothing, but it's been 30 minutes and it's basically faded from my wrist.


I'm going to wear it normally tomorrow and see how it goes. Smell-wise, I still very much prefer JM Red Roses!


Edited to add: 2 hours later, the scent is completely gone from my wrists Smiley Sad

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Hautelook is doing a Penhaligon's sale Smiley Happy

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This morning I pulled out a random sample vial that was sent to me with a perfume order and tried it on (Arquiste The Architects Club)


Imagine my surprise at finding something I would seriously consider wearing as a signature scent!?


It's a little sweet, a little woody, a touch bitter, with a hint of smoke.  In other words, it's perfect.

Re: Fragrance Junkie Central

I sprayed TF Tobacco OUD on a strip at the CCO store yesterday - accidentally got some on my fingers so rubbed them on my wrist... every time I caught a whiff of it for the rest of the day, it reminded me of EL Youth Dew. But, I haven't smelled that in years so maybe I'm crazy LOL

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I finally received my (first!) order from Surrender to Chance. I must say I am very pleased with their service thus far. My sample orders were:


Chanel No. 5 EDP

Chanel No. 5 Eau Premiere

Chanel No. 18

Chanel No. 22

Chanel Gardenia

Serge Lutenx Une Voix Noir


I have never tried No. 5 (crazy, right?) and last night I decided to start off "easy" and sample the Eau Premiere. My first impression: beautiful and sophisticated scent that makes me want to cuddle up by the fire place. Do I love it? Not yet, so I will need to sample this further. Unfortunately, stupid me got all excited about trying this scent and spilled half the 2 ml vial when I was pulling the cap off. ;-)  It landed all over the lid of my laptop  (whew...close call) so now I can say my laptop is wearing Chanel No 5 Eau Premiere. ;-)


This morning, I applied SL's Une Voix Noir. I am in GARDENIA HEAVEN. I LOVE gardenia scents, and this may be a must-own to add to my collection (I already own TF's Velvet Gardenia, Annick Goutal's Un Matin d'Orage, Marc Jacob's signature fragrance, and EL's Tuberose Gardenia). Does anyone else love gardenia scents and own SL's Une Voix Noir?


Thanks for letting me share ladies! Heart

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hey folks, just wanted to point out that the bglowing dot com 20% 5 hour sale DOES NOT exclude many of the perfumes (there are a couple brands excluded).  I bit the bullet and bought D.S. & Durga Mississippi Medicine because I have really been drawn to the descriptions of it and that brand isn't excluded. So there is about an hour left on that.  It runs out 10pm CST

Re: Fragrance Junkie Central

Wearing my all time favorite Byredo Pulp today. I feel like a walking fruit basket! 

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I need your help ladies to get a Diptyque fragrance for me. My favorite is Dior J'adore, Chanel Chance Eau Vive, Dior Prive Grand ball at the moment. I also liked Tom Ford Venetian Bergamot (I think citrusy+floral so). I tried Diptyque Do Son and its nice, very similar to Dior Grand ball. I am wondering if there is any other recommendation so I can go take a look? Thanks Smiley Happy

Re: Fragrance Junkie Central

I've tried 3 more things.  It was a busy weekend, so I limited my testing to once holiday events were over, so I wasn't subjecting all the partygoers to any fragrance fruit salad Smiley Very Happy


Brecourt Farah (previously known as Haram)

notes: bergamot, cinnamon, styrax, date, leather, cedar, honey, tonka, patchouli, labdanum, benzoin, musk

This was the last sample I ordered before I decided to put a moratorium on sample orders until I make a dent in my stash.  Thank you to the lovely lady who recommended it (cosmicbeauty, I believe?) as it's lovely. It starts off mild and powdery, similar to the type of baby powder scent you find in some luxury cosmetics.  After a while it evolves to a sweet, musky depth.  Has lots of cinnamon and spice, with a touch of woodiness.  It's a very refined, yet feminine scent.


Andy Tauer 08 Une Rose Chypree

notes: rose, bay, cinnamon, bergamot, lemon, clementine, bourbon, geranium, labdanum, vetiver, oak moss, patchouli, vanilla

This one baffles me.  At first I thought I didn't like it, but now I think I do.  It's definitely going in the 'needs further consideration' pile.  It also starts off a bit powdery, and gives off something reminiscent of 'white musk' but also a bit of smooth incense.  It gets some additional sweetness from a boozy bourbon and vanilla combo.  A touch of spice from the cinnamon, but in the 'random spicy fair trade store' aroma, rather than a true cinnamon.  It has some bay, but not as much as I would like.  


Nishane Istanbul Wulong Cha

notes: bergamot, orange, litchi, mandarin, tea, nutmeg, musk, fig

Very sadly, I don't really like this.  One of my favorite indie boutiques recommended it to me after I asked them for a good fig scent, but this isn't it (for me).  It starts out as a really bright citrus, very orange forward.  The combination of litchi and tea makes it smell like a B&BW spray at the beginning.  The fig is a green leafy one, not the lush fruit.  As it loosens up, I get a very airy, fresh and crisp but astringent tea.  Lovely composition, but the exact opposite of what I'm looking for. 


We're down to 77!

Re: Fragrance Junkie Central

4 more today!  I'm trying to 'front load' my trials since I know once the holidays start, there's not going to be any time for this frivolousness. (73 to go!)


Arquiste L'etrog Acqua

notes: vetiver, cedar, labdanum, bergamot, lemon leaf, lemon, citron, myrtle, mandarin

Like the regular L'etrog, there is lots of citrus in this.  The lemon leaf is very prominent to start, and smells just like my lemon tree.  It makes me feel like this is a very Sicilian scent.  The vetiver and citrus battle back and forth, but the result is mild.  It's classy, but not my jam.  


Arquiste Aleksandr

notes: neroli, violet leaf, fir balsam, leather

I am 99% sure this is what I am using my g/c for Twisted Lily on.  It is VERY interesting.  Supposedly it's a men's scent, but I think it is firmly uni.  It opens with the candied violet aroma from Guerlain meteorites.  Has a bit of an ashy after scent.  If it is masculine, then the man must be a bit of a dandy.  Would love for my husband to wear this, almost as much as I'd love to.  I'm not usually a re-sprayer, but I re-sprayed this.  


Mikmoi AO

notes: ginger, coconut, tuberose, plai, blue tansy, sandalwood, cade

I find this borderline offensive to my sense of smell.  I get none of the listed notes except blue tansy, and am actually sort of wondering why you would want to smell like that.  It smells exactly like the blue tansy in Sunday Riley Luna, Herbivore Lapis oil, and the Herbivore Blue Tansy mask.  It is so overpoweringly blue tansy.  I wish I could smell the other notes.  Smiley Sad


Mikmoi Vesper

notes: lillet, fig, rose, suede, myrrh, frankincense

I wonder if it's called vesper because it has notes of Llillet (ala Vesper Lynd from James Bond)  It starts out lightly boozy, sort of like Lillet, in the herbal/wine aroma, and I get touches of soft suede.  There's some smoke/ash/incense in the middle that reminds me of church.  It turns a little soapy, and isn't very long-lasting. Not a favorite.




Re: Fragrance Junkie Central

I received my order today. The MMMR Lipstick on, definitely smells like a glamorous powder room and what I imagine a 1940's lipstick would smell like. I'm horrible at descriptions I'm sorry.  Kind of musky. I really like this one. I feel like the old Hollywood actresses would have worn this. 

Re: Fragrance Junkie Central

Penhaligon's Bluebell- this smells so good. A very pleasant floral scent, with a touch of earth. Like a fresh picked handful of bluebells. 

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Today was an Etat Libre D'orange day.  4 more down, 65 to go!


ELD'O names their fragrances in some interesting ways.  Where applicable, I've applied the English translation in brackets)


Putain des Palaces (ummm... roughly, 'palace wh*re')

notes: rose, violet, leather, lily of the valley, tangerine, ginger, rice powder, animal, amber

I didn't have high expectations going into this, as I'm not a fan of most scents with 'animal' notes.  This has a strong undertone of cumin/curry on me.  It has lots of flowers, but it's musky too, like the smell of sweat.  It gets a little sweet and powdery from the rose, lily of the valley and violet.  Smells like cosmetics.  Finishes with sugared roses.  


True Lust 

notes: rum, ginger, coconut, rose, violet, osmanthus, lily of the valley, jasmine, ylang ylang, tangerine, rice powder, ambergris, leather, sandalwood, animal notes


Supposedly True Lust is a blend of Putain des Palaces and Dangerous Complicity, according to ELD'O.  It starts out interestingly enough, with a blend of spicy ginger and roses.  Then it also gets musky and 'oriental'.  I pick up a lot of sandalwood.  After a while it develops the same curry notes as Putain does.  Has a more powdery violet.  I get a bit of leather, like the smell of new leather shoes.  Has more floral notes than Putain and finishes like baby powder.  


Fils de Dieu (God's son, or Son of God)

notes: ginger, coriander, lime, shiso, coconut, rose, cardamom, jasmine, cinnamon, tonka, vetiver, musk, amber, leather, castoreum

I SO wanted to like this.  When it opened, it had the crisp, refreshing scent of a mojito.  Super fresh notes of ginger, lime and shiso leaves.  Some lemongrass and citronella.  A bouquet of lovely florals; jasmine is soft, rose is also present.  The cinnamon, musk and tonka keep it sweet but interesting.  But then, as it develops, it gets soapy.  The more it blooms, the less I like it.  Has poor longevity.  After 2-3 hours, all that's left behind is the generic ISO-E 'clean' aroma.  


La Fin du Monde (the end of the world)

notes: popcorn, carrot seeds, cumin, sesame, black pepper, freesia, vetiver, sandalwood, ambrette, iris, styrax, gunpowder

This begins sweetly with a combined vanilla and freesia vibe.  Smells a bit like fruity, berry candies.  Occasionally I catch a whiff of a toasty/buttered popcorn aroma.  As it wears, there is a fair bit of iris popping up.  Towards the end there is the sweet and toasty smell of sesame snaps.  It's a bizarre fragrance.  



Re: Fragrance Junkie Central

2 more Histoires de Parfums from yesterday.



notes: angelica, cardamom, pink pepper, basil, galbanum, aldehyde, lavender, celery grain, iris, osmanthus, incense, patchouli, musk, vanilla, cedar, raspberry

This is barely perceptible at first.  Musk and celery.  A warm cedar, like a sauna.  As it heats up, it begins to project.  Violet candy smell.  Mild.  Raspberries and fir trees.  A bit powdery and floral at the end.  Will need to revisit; not sure if I like it or not, but it's interesting.


Olympia Music Hall

notes: orange, bergamot, lemon, mandarin, pink berries, pepper, saffron, rose, freesia, lilac, peony, blond wood, patchouli, frankincense, styrax, suede, vanilla, chocolate, licorice, white musk

Lemony incense beginning.  Spot on wood polish smell. Definite notes of suede and musk.  Peppery.  Then, suddenly: white florals.  Bergamot with frankincense ending, with more polished wood.  Unique as an 'experience' scent, but not for me.

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i've received a gift card to a department store and have my sights on diptyque eau duelle. i'm leaning toward the eau de parfum over the toilette.....but i was wondering if anyone has experienced both ? obviously the edp will last longer than the edt...but if the difference is slight, i'd be open to the toilette (then i can get another vanille candle !). wondering how different the dry down is, too, between the two (if at all).


regardless, i'm so pleased just knowing this (in whatever form) will be in my collection soon !


and for the sake of conversation....i really want eau rose too. i think--think--it's my fave *pure* rose i've come across (as much as i adore le labo's so much more than rose, yeah ?). but this will have to be a purchase for later this year. eau duelle comes first !

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Yesterday's scent was Ramon Monegal Dry Wood

notes: citron, bay leaf, pepper, moss, sandalwood, cedar, cashmeran, amber, woods, satureja

Very citrusy to start.  Extremely masculine.  Has a sort of 'Drakkar Noir' vibe.  Very mossy and green.  After a while I get a weird, almost green bell pepper note.  Rosemary and thyme with woody herbals.  Ridiculously long-wearing (I can still smell it today, even after showering).  Manly.  

Re: Fragrance Junkie Central

Grabbed another 4 out of the random sample bag today.  There are 8 left in it, and then it's time to move on to L'artisan-town Smiley Very Happy


Comptoir Sud Pacifique Amour de Cacao

notes: orange, cacao, star fruit, vanilla

Dark chocolate and toasty graham cracker start.  Reminds me a lot of Demeter Brownie, but nuanced.  Dries down quickly (less than 5 minutes) and then tropical aromas of star fruit and vanilla present.  It's a bit juvenile.  Smells like a grapefruit soap they used to sell at Body Shop.  Extremely gourmand.  In the end it isn't discernibly different than the scent of Comptoir's Vanille Abricot.


Tom Ford Extreme

notes: thai basil, coriander, chamomile, cardamom, cinnamon bark, lemon, cistus, saffron, thyme, black plum, violet, black fig, cedarwood atlas, sandalwood, rum, vetiver, caramel, vanilla, patchouli, vieux, black truffle, amber, fig, balsam, supple leather accord, Shoyeido incense

Starts lemony, and a bit smoky.  Like lemon in aftershave.  A little leathery.  Then some suede and mild soapiness.  A bit of powdery fig leaf/stem.  Finishes with a mild chamomile note.  This is beautiful, but I wish my husband would wear it.  


Jazmin Sarai Otis & Me

notes: black pepper, bergamot, cardamom, rose, incense, balsam, coffee

A really peppery, nasturtium opening.  A bit like dirt, too.  The cardamom is soapy.  All of a sudden, I am assaulted by the smell of stale B.O. and cigar.  Gross.


Shay & Blue London Framboise Noire

notes: raspberry, red berries, wild berries, iris, oud, musk, woods

This one was recommended to me by someone - I think Luckyscent.  I had high hopes for it, but it's pretty nonchalant.  Starts out with loads of oud and sweetness, like sugared berries.  A bit of generic potpourri.  It's very nondescript.  Disappears into the skin in under an hour.

Re: Fragrance Junkie Central

Dropping off some notes for trials I've done over the past few days of traveling.  I also have some notes to add for a few Eau D'Italie scents (Baume du Doge, Jardin du Poete and Bois d'Ombrie) but I have to find the cocktail napkin I scribbled them on, first Smiley Very Happy




Etro Vetiver

notes: clary sage, artemisia, vetiver, cedar, cypress, tobacco

Lots of vetiver, and a lemony, citronella note.  Gets grassy/waxy after about an hour.  And the strangest hints of cattails (the plant) and wicker basket.  Very odd.


Etro Messe de Minuit

notes: bergamot, lemon, orange, myrrh, cinnamon, petitgrain, citron, patchouli, musk, labdanum, incense

Lots of incense and citron.  Some muskiness and hints of cinnamon.  Rugged (would be delightful on a man).  The cinnamon mixed with the citrus is elegant and exhilarating.  Has a mulled wine quality.  The longer I wear it, the more the citruses and spices meld and come forward.


L'artisan Parfumeur Timbuktu

notes: mango, pink pepper, frankincense, papyrus, smoke, karo karounde flower, vetiver, balsam, spices, patchouli, myrrh, woody, resins

Opens with loads of frankincense and balsam.  Patchouli sneaks around a bit, but isn't too strong.  Some myrrh and smoke.  A little lemony.  Then the papyrus comes through.  It gets woody and resinous.  Very spicy, and a hint of wood smoke.  Quite a bit of vetiver about 3 hours in.  Semi-masculine, or at least very firmly unisex.  

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