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I know there are a few of us on BT that are fragrance addicts, so I thought it would be nice to have a dedicated place where we can share our thoughts.
This is not to take away from the lovely What Are You Wearing Today, Fragrance Edition thread, but more a place to post longer reviews, chat about new brands or releases, and just shoot the breeze on anything good and smelly 🙂
For me, I recently acquired 2 new decants that I've been anxiously awaiting. Ever since Lachaton mentioned that MMM was releasing a new scent called By The Fireplace I've been itching to get my hands on it. My decant arrived yesterday, so I'm looking forward to marinating in it this weekend. Secondly, I recently picked up a tiny sample of Shiseido Nombre Noir. Supposedly it is one of the most expensive failures in perfume history - made by Serge Lutens for Shiseido back in the 80s. Of course, with a backstory like that, I was dying to get a sniff 😄
What's new on your scent radar? Do tell!
No problem @pocketvenus ! I wish Sephora carried them too. I could only find them at Neiman Marcus before my flight. Nordstrom has them in stock now
And an update on the longevity. Indoors, massaged one swipe onto each inner elbow, and I can still smell it on my skin at the end of the day, about 9 hours later after application.
I just learned that Diptyque will be releasing an LE scent for 2019, sometime around July, with the name 34. It's a pretty floral, magnolia I think the SA said, with a bit of tonka sweetness and dries down on paper to something powdery. They will also be getting 30ml bottles in stock of their more popular fragrances.
I was wrong! The name of this LE release is Essences Insensées 2019 and the main flower of this scent is gardenia!
Tiare/gardenia combines green notes, a lively presence and a wholly ethereal freshness akin to a gentle ocean breeze. A vanilla absolute has been added to bring out the sensual qualities of this exotic bloom.
I will say there was a touch of “salty breeze” but it took a good long while for it to show up on paper. The vanilla is not overpowering. I would describe it fresh over green though. It’s not an earthy galbanum green but the green of fresh flowers.
Ooohhh, I'm almost tempted by this! I can't stand many florals, but my gardenia bushes just got done flowering for the year and I miss that scent already. I find gardenia perfumes to generally be too overwhelming though. I need to see if Diptyque is available anywhere around me.
Carolina Herrera’s ‘Good Girl’ Finds Its Counterpart in ‘Bad Boy’
Carolina Herrera is building out its men's fragrance portfolio with the launch of a new scent, Bad Boy.
Good Girl, meet Bad Boy.
Carolina Herrera’s fragrance business is booming, thanks, in large part, to Good Girl. The scent, which launched three years ago, is said to do about 300 million euros at retail annually and is growing 30 percent year-over-year in the U.S. alone. Industry sources estimate it could bring in as much as 350 million euros at retail in 2019.
With its women’s portfolio going strong, Herrera’s House of Fragrances is shifting its focus to the men’s market, where it hopes to replicate the success of Good Girl. And what better way to start than with a Good Girl counterpart: the aptly titled Bad Boy Eau de Toilette.
“The brand Carolina Herrera is in a grand momentum,” said José Manuel Albesa, president of brands, markets and operations at Puig. “We see all the pieces of the brand growing fast, whether it’s the New York CH stores and fragrances. Good Girl was a phenomenal success. We thought it was time to develop the master brand three years later.”
With Bad Boy, Carolina Herrera aims to “target a new type of man with a new masculinity,” said Ana Trias, senior vice president of prestige and premium brands at Puig. That target man, she continued, is “not afraid to take risks, is basing his masculinity on duality and bringing this strong and sensitive side to the fragrance world.”
Neither Albesa nor Trias would discuss sales projections, but industry sources estimated that Bad Boy could do as much as 100 million euros in its first year at retail.
Bad Boy is the ninth men’s fragrance in the Herrera House of Fragrances portfolio, which also includes 10 women’s fragrances and a genderless line called Herrera Confidential. Bad Boy includes notes of sage, green bergamot, pepper, tonka beans, cocoa and amber wood. It will retail for 97 euros and comes packaged in a lightning bolt-shaped bottle — the sculptural alternative to Good Girl’s high- heel, shoe-shaped one.
Starting this year, Bad Boy will roll out to 7,000 doors across Europe, Latin America, the Middle East and travel retail. It will be made available worldwide in 2020, mirroring the distribution strategy of Good Girl.
“These are the historic areas where we have been very strong,” said Trias. “The travel retail associated to these areas is also very important for us. In some areas, it’s key for us.”
The brand chose British actor Ed Skrein to be the face of the fragrance, as he embodies what Trias referred to as “modern masculinity.”
“[Skrein] expressed this idea of men’s contradictions and embracing different facets of his life,” said Trias. “We thought he was also a good alter ego for Karlie [Kloss, the face of Good Girl]. His career and his life, the way he explains it, makes sense with this masculinity we’re looking for: strong, but emotional at the same time, sensitive.”
Bad Boy, said Albesa, will play a key role in not only evening out the fragrance house’s portfolio, but helping the larger Carolina Herrera brand reach its goal of becoming a billion-euro brand in the next few years.
“We are working on a new plan, which is called House of Herrera, to reach one billion euros worldwide at the end of 2023,” said Albesa. “Bad Boy will help us with the objective of the brand to become a one billion brand in the next three years. We will be doing initiatives that will accompany this brand trajectory.”
I didn't know where to ask this but did the Sephora Clean Fragrance Sampler kit that was available for $65 sell out? It's not on the website anymore.
It contained:
– 0.05 fl oz/ 1.5mL By Rosie Jane Leila Lou Eau de Parfum
(Certificate redeems for 1.7 oz/ 50 mL Eau de Parfum Spray)
– 0.05 fl oz/ 1.5mL Clean Reserve Skin Eau de Parfum
(Certificate redeems for 3.4 oz/ 100 mL Eau de Parfum Spray)
– 0.05 fl oz/ 1.5mL Ellis Brooklyn Myth Eau de Parfum
(Certificate redeems for 1.7 oz/ 50 mL Eau de Parfum Spray)
– 0.05 fl oz/ 1.5mL Maison Louis Marie No. 04 Bois de Balincourt Eau de Parfum
(Certificate redeems for 1.7 oz/ 50 mL Eau de Parfum Spray)
– 0.05 fl oz/ 1.5mL Phlur Hanami Eau de Parfum
(Certificate redeems for 1.7 oz/ 50 mL Eau de Parfum Spray)
– 0.05 fl oz/ 1.5mL Skylar Isle Eau de Toilette
(Certificate redeems for 1.7 oz/ 50 mL Eau de Toilette Spray)
– 0.05 fl oz/ 1.5mL The 7 Virtues Vanilla Woods Eau de Parfum
(Certificate redeems for 1.7 oz/ 50 mL Eau de Parfum Spray)
@Tarabottiif it's not on Sephora's website, it's probably done. If you're close to a physical outlet, you could always try calling and see if there's any left?
I've smelled a few Montales before and they struck me as kind of harsh. I'm pretty confident there's no real oud in your fragrance. Oud can have its phenolic and pungent sides but it's never scratchy in my experience. I'd guess it's probably ambroxan that's bothering you as that's the main ingredient in Not a Perfume. It's known for being used to make perfumes louder and long-lasting.
Thanks @pocketvenus : ) yeah ambroxan sounds like a good candidate for culprilt and i can’t help thinking maybe a mix of ambroxan and super musks? There’s a kind of musky edge to the scent I don’t like... sigh ah well I’ll try to see if anyone is interested in swapping - apparently there’s nothing wrong with it and this is just how it smells (popped into the one shop in my city that has them to investigate). Weird how perfume is so SO subjective - all of the Fragrantica reviews deceived this as a beautiful fresh rose with fruit and sugar and I read close to 100 reviews before buying it. It’s hard for me to process that no one else is experiencing this like I am because to me it’s just blinding pine sol floor cleaner and musks with a hint of rose. I once heard that coriander/cilantro tastes completely different to a small minority of people like 8% or something experience it as a soapy taste. Maybe something similar is happening here?
Kilian's releasing an LE flanker, Love Don't Be Shy, Rose and Oud. It's a little odd to me because the house used to have a Rose Oud fragrance which has since been discontinued and I wonder if they're related. The notes are Bulgarian rose, marshmallow and oud. The bottle looks kind of tacky 😞
Papillon is releasing its 6th fragrance, Bengale Rouge. This is probably one of my favourite niche houses so I'm really looking forward to trying this out! The notes are: Turkish Rose, Orris, Sandalwood, Tonka, Oakmoss, Honey, Vanilla, Labdanum, Benzoin and Sweet Myrrh
That sounds heavenly!
An interesting article about the first perfume created completely by AI:
https://www dot dw.com/en/artificial-intelligence-creates-perfumes-without-being-able-to-smell-them/a-48989202
@Mochapj, interesting link, thanks for sharing! I can see AI being helpful in that noses need to memorize thousands of ingredients and this could maybe help them give more consideration to forgotten or more obscure ones or just lighten the initial load so they can focus more on being creative. On the other hand, if every nose was to rely on the same algorithms, based entirely on previous formulas, that coupled with factoring in popularity suggests to me that this could push noses toward even greater homogenization in fragrance corporations.
L'Artisan Parfumeur has come out with a new fragrance, Le Chant de Camargue, by the prolific Alberto Morillas who did CK One, Armani's Acqua di Gio, Gucci Bloom, a number of the Kilians and the new Chopard line, and a personal favourite, Amouage's Opus VII.
Notes for Le Chant de Camargue are bergamot, Camargue rice and sandalwood. The ad copy is pretty overblown as it tends to be with perfume
Morillas recalled the flights of pink flamingos and the Fêtes des Prémices du Riz - rice festivals - brought to life by the incredible parade of floats. But, first and foremost, the floral, powdery, creamy aroma of rice is indelibly etched in Alberto Morillas’s memory.
This aquatic, herbaceous plant is dark green to start with. It gradually turns a beautiful shade of amber at the start of the flowering season as it bends beneath the weight of its ears. Alberto Morillas creates a fragrance that smells "white" thanks to the aqueous floral notes of Hédione and Paradisone coupled with deliciously milky sandalwood and the beguiling aroma of "Camargue rice". The tribute to this Camargue treasure trove is so realistic and the blend of aromas and sensations so perfect that you could be strolling through a real paddy field.
I haven't tried others in the Les Paysages line, but I am curious about this one.
i bought this on a whim and it was one of the better impulsive decisions i've made. launched in 1990 jil sander no.4 smells exactly of its time: that 80s/early 90s spicy floral that was everywhere right before the reigning 90s trend of watery 'clean' scents took over. if you look at the notes--with plum, tuberose, carnation and musk--there can be an easy comparison to dior poison, but i find no.4 to be more refined. the inital blast is a full time warp, and sings of that particular ylang ylang - carnation accord, mixed with white flowers, that was present in so many of my mother's fragrances when i was growing up. (she never had this one, so it's a fun way for me to be nostalgic for my mom's scents while still having my 'own' version of it). many will undoubtedly find it dated, but i adore it and find it strong and sophisticated. what's more, though, is that the dry down is absolutely my favorite dry down of any fragrance i own. after 20 min to an hour it turns into a tonka-myrrh with musk binding it to the skin. not too sweet, the spices are still floating, just more quietly.
@jemly, that sounds fantastic! Not just the perfume notes, but how it connects you to your mother but that you still have a perfume of your own 🙂 I love older styles too, sometimes it feels like wearing a special vintage fashion piece.
Has anyone tried Hiram Green? I kept reading good things about this all-naturals line so I bought the discovery set. I'm most excited to try Hyde which is smoky leather.