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Post in Perfume Posse

Fragrance Junkie Central

I know there are a few of us on BT that are fragrance addicts, so I thought it would be nice to have a dedicated place where we can share our thoughts.

 

This is not to take away from the lovely What Are You Wearing Today, Fragrance Edition thread, but more a place to post longer reviews, chat about new brands or releases, and just shoot the breeze on anything good and smelly Smiley Happy

 

For me, I recently acquired 2 new decants that I've been anxiously awaiting.  Ever since Lachaton mentioned that MMM was releasing a new scent called By The Fireplace I've been itching to get my hands on it.  My decant arrived yesterday, so I'm looking forward to marinating in it this weekend.  Secondly, I recently picked up a tiny sample of Shiseido Nombre Noir.  Supposedly it is one of the most expensive failures in perfume history - made by Serge Lutens for Shiseido back in the 80s.  Of course, with a backstory like that, I was dying to get a sniff Smiley Very Happy

 

What's new on your scent radar?  Do tell!

 

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Re: RE: Fragrance Junkie Central

@RoseCharlieI love it!!! I totally agree that smaller houses are worth looking into as they can use more expensive ingredients and charge less because their overhead is low. By the way, if you love fun gourmands, 4160 Tuesdays has some quirky and adorable ones.

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@pocketvenus : ) that’s totally true - bigger houses spend so much money on advertising, TV ads, spokesmodels etc. I read an article that said the fragrance industry spends something like $800 million per year on advertising! I have been wanting to try my hand at perfumery for a long time though and I have to say I feel like it’s difficult to get into on one’s own because it’s such an expensive hobby. Getting small amounts of all the natural EOs, essences, absolutes and CO2 extracts + a variety of aromachemicals molecules that I would need + other blending materials would cost me thousands of dollars just to play around a bit... I think it may also be difficult and less cost effective to be supplied in small quantities and I think the bigger fragrance producers have more options like buying natural products directly from producers and farmers rather than from a middleman. Something I find interesting from posts of people who are really into buying indie fragrances is that the culture is sort of different - people seem to try as many things as they can and they mostly buy 1ml sample sets and then go on to buy 2.5mls or 5mls of the ones they love but for people who buy loads of indie fragrances 5mls is a lot and it seems like they wear a very large variety of perfumes as opposed to a few favourites. I thought that was interesting because it’s almost the polar opposite of what the public at large does - like not people like us who love to try perfumes but according to this report I was reading the average (non perfume obsessed) person just wants to find something they like and stick with it. Apparently the top 10 fragrances are very hard to unseat for that reason- they have fairly loyal following of people who are not very likely to try a bunch of other stuff until they find something they like better. I think that’s NUTS! I mean I have a signature scent but it blows my mind that people wouldn’t want to try everything! : )

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@RoseCharlieyes, you are right in that the large houses have the ability to leverage economies of scale to access better ingredients, though I'm also guessing they are under far more pressure to maintain very high profit margins.

 

That is so cool you've been thinking about perfumery!!!! Smiley Happy I've read some of the aromachemicals like ISO-E super are pretty cheap but again, I'm guessing there is a minimum amount to purchase and that this is rather high! And I think you're right about the perfume obsessed and smaller sizes. 10-30 ml is the ideal for me. I have far too many perfumes to justify 100 ml or even 50. I would never use it up.

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@pocketvenus oh absolutely! Sorry I wasn’t intending that to be a counter-argument in any way I was just generally discouraged that all of the things i wanted to get started were generally adding up to so much but you’re totally 500% right most of the aromachems or designer molecules (like it’s weird there’s really only a few companies that design all of the molecules perfumers use and they do a lot of the fragrances that’s go into everything from household cleaning products to designer perfumes - Giveaudan and Firmenich are the ones I see most often)... but sorry that was a terrible digression - yes - the individuals aromachemicas are super cheap!!! That’s why it blows my mind that perfumes like Not a Perfume sell so well it’s maybe 10 cents worth of product and that’s mainly the cost of them or perfumer’s alcohol I think lol. It’s true that I would be buying from a reseller so it’s a bit more expensive but my shopping cart is adding up to a lot because I’ve also placed a lot ignored natural materials in there. My interest in perfumery came from experimenting with natural materials when making my own bath and body stuff and I love the way LUSH makes its fragrances for bath and body’s products (I’m not as much of a fan of their actual fragrance line) but in their non-perfume product line I find that the natural scents are often (not always but often) recognizable and that the synthetic components play more of a supporting role or add interest or sweetness but I can often smell real lavender or neroli or rosewood or rose absolute or lemon or lime or jasmine essential oil. I like that it creates this sort of connection to real things and what those things smell like. I would love to make something like that.  I’ve been buying and smelling and experimenting with natural materials - essential oils, absolutes, oleoresins, CO2 extracts etc. for years but ive yet to try anything with synthetics. I don’t know how much demand there is for that kind ignorant thins though - like LUSH’s fragrance called « LUST » is exactly exactly precisely the smell of jasmine absolute with maybe just the smallest hint of sandalwood but otherwise it’s precisely exactly what jasmine absolute smells like.  At higher concentrations jasmine absolute has a sort of gasoline note almost - but when people think of jasmine in perfumery I think they are often thinking about a sort of conceptual flower like a clean white floral - not this heavily indolic crazy smelling floral with a hint of gasoline. So I have seen a lot of people saying they hate that fragrance and that it smells nothing like jasmine when really I almost 100% sure that it must be the fragrance with the highest concentration of real jasmine absolute on the market. I  try to read a lot of reviews to get a sense of what people think and I also see so many people commenting on perfume lines like Pacifica and saying how much of a difference it makes to wear all natural scents when really the only think in their fragrances that I can recognize as having some sort of relationship to nature is the grain alcohol lol. So I would like to make things with that blend natural and synthetic products but where the natural essences are the star of the show but I don’t know if people would value that enough to pay additional money for it. I live in Toronto and ive been a bit surprised not to be able to find a real perfumery course I could take locally.  I think no one is really keen on this notion because it’s so out of left field I have a whole other job but I keep coming back to it and thinking about it.  Another weird thing that I found a bit earlier on when i started making my own bathband body products was that almost every single vendor on Etsy (not alll but most) uses incredibly cheap fragrance oils to make their products.  Fragrance oils can be purchased from craft shops for soap makers and candle makers - I bought so many different fragrances oils to test out when I first started and I never ended up using a single one because I thought they were all god awful. Price-point wise they can’t even possess designer scent molecules baby Giveaudan or firemenich because they are so so so cheap so I’m guessing they must Veblen made with the cheapest of the cheapest aromachems... So I am surprised at how well these products sell because to me they smell kind of terrible but there are eveb people making money by adding oil to the and selling these cheap fragrance oils as customized perfumes. I guess I’m looking at demand on the lower price point end of the market though and there must also Be demand at higher price points since there aren’t many companies putting out perfumes that are very costly as well...

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@RoseCharlieNo worries!!!! I didn't take your post as an argument at all, just read it as adding more info and insight to the conversation <333

 

Eccentric Molecules is another great example of what you're talking about with Not a Perfume - it's one aromachemical in alcohol ha ha ha. I get there's minimalism in perfume and I like ISO-E Super but come on!

 

Yes, sometimes people like the cleaned up scents/lower concentrations better. Jasmine can smell plasticky, like moth balls, like banana peels, not exactly what I want to smell like!!!

 

As for Pacifica... I don't believe the term "natural" is regulated so it really does make me wonder what they mean by natural. At least with the Clean seal at Sephora we know the fragrances have passed some kind of standard.

 

I live in Toronto as well and I agree - we don't even have a dedicate perfume boutique now that Niche Essence closed!

Re: Fragrance Junkie Central

Tom Ford Private Blend Reserve Tuscan Leather Intense

https://m.sephora.com/ca/en/product/tuscan-leather-intense-P447140

 

 

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Heard this was less fruity and more smoky. Have not tried it yet! Thanks for the link @Mochapj !

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Looks like ELDO is coming out with some candles ABAD8966-D450-4D5B-ABD4-ABC91F5600DC.png

 

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New Serge Lutens La Couche du Diable - an oud with Smoke, cistus and rose

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I had to google cistus but this sounds really nice! too bad I'm poor @Mochapj  Smiley Very Happy

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@michelleshops  I'm definitely curious to give it a sniff once it hits the counter. I was surprised to read in one of the press releases that it will be the first true oud perfume the regular line has.

 

I'm also glad it's in one of the clear bottles instead of some of the other ranges which are even more ridiculously pricy. I've fallen in love with a few of the 'Section d'Or' range but the pricetag is so absurd I won't allow myself to buy them.

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@Mochapj I’m looking forward to trying this one as well. The market is saturated with rose-ouds but I can see Lutens having a very romantic, sultry take. Also agree about the d’Or line, it's like they just wanted to see how much they could get away with charging.

RE: Fragrance Junkie Central

New TF scent, Metallique: Vanilla, Amber, lily of the valley, aldehydes, Jasmine

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@MochapjThanks for posting! I wonder why the bottle is different? Maybe to match Ombre Leather? I love this trademark trick of yours and I see some other upcoming names might be ROSE PR*CK and YLANG ROUGE which I'm guessing is to compliment Jasmin Rouge. SOLEIL NEIGE and BLACK LACQUER both sound promising but I must admit I haven’t really enjoyed a release since the Vert series.

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@pocketvenusI saw! I shared those on the TF thread recently but I usually only bother posting them here once I can find info about the notes. I’m guessing Metallique is going to be part of the lower priced signature line based on that bottle although from the notes nothing about it jumps out as being metallic 🤷🏽‍♀️

 

As to Rose Prixk, my gut says it’s probably going to be this year’s ‘controversial’ release that they bring out during NYFW in September. Last year’s was Lost Cherry and the year before was F Fabulous, so it seems to be a trend to put out something with a contrived name in that time slot 🙄

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@Mochapjgood call, you're probably right about the timing! I also wondered the same for Metallique, if it indicated a different prince point.

 

I've rarely smelled realistic metallic notes in perfumes. Maybe the name is a reference to razor sharp and shiny aldehydes? But then again, I don't recall the new fougeres being very metallic despite being named after metals. I guess we'll have to wait and smell!

Re: Fragrance Junkie Central

Has anyone tried the Jo Malone solids? I'm thinking of shipping a couple to a friend overseas Smiley Happy

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@pocketvenus - what a wonderful idea because you wouldn’t get any shipping issues with solids! I would love a solid of Red Roses by JM - I don’t own any Malone solids but I have many lush solids and one thing I love to do is use solids to perfume and hydrate my hair : )

Re: Fragrance Junkie Central

I have their duo @pocketvenus !

They're great for on the go. The case for the duo is weighted and refillable. The solids have a creamy, balm-like texture that isn't tacky. They aren't as overpowering as their liquid ones, which I like since they're more for me and don't disturb the people next to me on the plane much. One swipe onto each of my inner elbows lasts for several hours…I should probably check again to see if they last throughout the day. Idk if this review is helpful, but if you’d like photos or measurements, let me know.

 

I have only tried the Blackberry Bay and Pear/Freesia solids.

Re: Fragrance Junkie Central

@RNGesusPls Thanks for the tips!!! <333 I appreciate it! These sound great for travel, I wish Sephora carried them. They’d make great stocking stuffers too.

Re: Fragrance Junkie Central

No problem @pocketvenus ! I wish Sephora carried them too. I could only find them at Neiman Marcus before my flight. Nordstrom has them in stock now

 

And an update on the longevity. Indoors, massaged one swipe onto each inner elbow, and I can still smell it on my skin at the end of the day, about 9 hours later after application.

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