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Post in Perfume Posse

Fragrance Junkie Central

I know there are a few of us on BT that are fragrance addicts, so I thought it would be nice to have a dedicated place where we can share our thoughts.

 

This is not to take away from the lovely What Are You Wearing Today, Fragrance Edition thread, but more a place to post longer reviews, chat about new brands or releases, and just shoot the breeze on anything good and smelly Smiley Happy

 

For me, I recently acquired 2 new decants that I've been anxiously awaiting.  Ever since Lachaton mentioned that MMM was releasing a new scent called By The Fireplace I've been itching to get my hands on it.  My decant arrived yesterday, so I'm looking forward to marinating in it this weekend.  Secondly, I recently picked up a tiny sample of Shiseido Nombre Noir.  Supposedly it is one of the most expensive failures in perfume history - made by Serge Lutens for Shiseido back in the 80s.  Of course, with a backstory like that, I was dying to get a sniff Smiley Very Happy

 

What's new on your scent radar?  Do tell!

 

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Re: RE: Fragrance Junkie Central

@RoseCharlie

 

I've smelled a few Montales before and they struck me as kind of harsh. I'm pretty confident there's no real oud in your fragrance. Oud can have its phenolic and pungent sides but it's never scratchy in my experience. I'd guess it's probably ambroxan that's bothering you as that's the main ingredient in Not a Perfume. It's known for being used to make perfumes louder and long-lasting.

 

Re: RE: Fragrance Junkie Central

Thanks @pocketvenus  : ) yeah ambroxan sounds like a good candidate for culprilt and i can’t help thinking maybe a mix of ambroxan and super musks? There’s a kind of musky edge to the scent I don’t like... sigh ah well I’ll try to see if anyone is interested in swapping - apparently there’s nothing wrong with it and this is just how it smells (popped into the one shop in my city that has them to investigate). Weird how perfume is so SO subjective - all of the Fragrantica reviews deceived this as a beautiful fresh rose with fruit and sugar and I read close to 100 reviews before buying it. It’s hard for me to process that no one else is experiencing this like I am because to me it’s just blinding pine sol floor cleaner and musks with a hint of rose.  I once heard that coriander/cilantro tastes completely different to a small minority of people like 8% or something experience it as a soapy taste. Maybe something similar is happening here?

Re: Fragrance Junkie Central

Kilian's releasing an LE flanker, Love Don't Be Shy, Rose and Oud. It's a little odd to me because the house used to have a Rose Oud fragrance which has since been discontinued and I wonder if they're related. The notes are Bulgarian rose, marshmallow and oud. The bottle looks kind of tacky Smiley Sad

 

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Re: Fragrance Junkie Central

Papillon is releasing its 6th fragrance, Bengale Rouge. This is probably one of my favourite niche houses so I'm really looking forward to trying this out! The notes are: Turkish Rose, Orris, Sandalwood, Tonka, Oakmoss, Honey, Vanilla, Labdanum, Benzoin and Sweet Myrrh

 

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Re: Fragrance Junkie Central

That sounds heavenly!

Re: Fragrance Junkie Central

An interesting article about the first perfume created completely by AI:

 

https://www dot dw.com/en/artificial-intelligence-creates-perfumes-without-being-able-to-smell-them/a-48989202

Re: Fragrance Junkie Central

@Mochapj, interesting link, thanks for sharing! I can see AI being helpful in that noses need to memorize thousands of ingredients and this could maybe help them give more consideration to forgotten or more obscure ones or just lighten the initial load so they can focus more on being creative. On the other hand, if every nose was to rely on the same algorithms, based entirely on previous formulas, that coupled with factoring in popularity suggests to me that this could push noses toward even greater homogenization in fragrance corporations.

Re: Fragrance Junkie Central

L'Artisan Parfumeur has come out with a new fragrance, Le Chant de Camargue, by the prolific Alberto Morillas who did CK One, Armani's Acqua di Gio, Gucci Bloom, a number of the Kilians and the new Chopard line, and a personal favourite, Amouage's Opus VII.

 

Notes for Le Chant de Camargue are bergamot, Camargue rice and sandalwood. The ad copy is pretty overblown as it tends to be with perfume

 

Morillas recalled the flights of pink flamingos and the Fêtes des Prémices du Riz - rice festivals - brought to life by the incredible parade of floats. But, first and foremost, the floral, powdery, creamy aroma of rice is indelibly etched in Alberto Morillas’s memory.

 

This aquatic, herbaceous plant is dark green to start with. It gradually turns a beautiful shade of amber at the start of the flowering season as it bends beneath the weight of its ears. Alberto Morillas creates a fragrance that smells "white" thanks to the aqueous floral notes of Hédione and Paradisone coupled with deliciously milky sandalwood and the beguiling aroma of "Camargue rice". The tribute to this Camargue treasure trove is so realistic and the blend of aromas and sensations so perfect that you could be strolling through a real paddy field.

 

0065148198-chant-de-camargue

I haven't tried others in the Les Paysages line, but I am curious about this one.

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Ooh think looks so interesting! Sigh - I wish they would bring back Seville a l’aube it was beautiful!

Re: Fragrance Junkie Central

i bought this on a whim and it was one of the better impulsive decisions i've made. launched in 1990 jil sander no.4 smells exactly of its time: that 80s/early 90s spicy floral that was everywhere right before the reigning 90s trend of watery 'clean' scents took over. if you look at the notes--with plum, tuberose, carnation and musk--there can be an easy comparison to dior poison, but i find no.4 to be more refined. the inital blast is a full time warp, and sings of that particular ylang ylang - carnation accord, mixed with white flowers, that was present in so many of my mother's fragrances when i was growing up. (she never had this one, so it's a fun way for me to be nostalgic for my mom's scents while still having my 'own' version of it). many will undoubtedly find it dated, but i adore it and find it strong and sophisticated. what's more, though, is that the dry down is absolutely my favorite dry down of any fragrance i own. after 20 min to an hour it turns into a tonka-myrrh with musk binding it to the skin. not too sweet, the spices are still floating, just more quietly. 

0.jpgjil sander no.4

 

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@jemly thank you so much for posting this flashback! I used to love and wear Jil Sander no 4. In 1990 I was still in college and working in cosmetics at a beautiful store in NYC. I don’t recall how I stumbled upon it, probably playing with fragrances on my off time. I just remember loving it so much! It was definitely more intense, more interesting, more... serious than the clean, crisp watery fragrances that popped up subsequently. It made me feel so mature and confident, and many other wonderful emotions. I completely forgot about this fragrance! It’s been a while since I’ve seen it, but it was a huge favourite back then. Time to start looking through old memento boxes. I thank you for this memory. It truly was a marvellous time to be a young girl. xoxo

Re: Fragrance Junkie Central

@jemly, that sounds fantastic! Not just the perfume notes, but how it connects you to your mother but that you still have a perfume of your own Smiley Happy I love older styles too, sometimes it feels like wearing a special vintage fashion piece.

Re: Fragrance Junkie Central

Has anyone tried Hiram Green? I kept reading good things about this all-naturals line so I bought the discovery set. I'm most excited to try Hyde which is smoky leather.

 

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Re: Fragrance Junkie Central

@pocketvenus  I have only sampled Slowdive and Hyde from this house.

 

Both are very good! Slowdive has the resins, beeswax, dried fruit and floral. Sweet without being overly sweet. Hyde is all about the smoky Birch Tar. Also, I do not believe there is leather in Hyde.

 

Although Hyde is an amazing smoky, it is one of those fragrances that is hard to find the right occasion to wear. Between the two, my vote goes to Slowdive for better versatility.

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@Vmaster, Thanks for sharing your thoughts!! I’m so glad you find them both to be good Smiley Happy Slowdive sounds really delicious!! I have also read that Hyde is challenging. I do like the cade-heavy fragrances it’s been compared to but I definitely see what you mean about these smoky scents being difficult to wear out. The last one I tried, T-Rex by Zoologist, was too much, even for me. I think it’s very interesting but I have no idea what to wear with something so unusual and powerful. Well, I received my package in the mail today so hopefully will get a chance to share my impressions soon Smiley Happy

Re: Fragrance Junkie Central

@pocketvenus  I've only tried one (Shangri-La) and not exactly of my own accord. I received a sample as an extra in an order I'd made from a 'fume shop and it definitely wasn't something I'd have chosen for myself. 

 

I tried it on before looking up the notes and although I didn't enjoy it (too floral and fruity) that was more of it being not the scent for me than it being an inherently poor formulation. 


Please share how you feel about Hyde, I am always on the lookout for well done leathers.

Re: Fragrance Junkie Central

@Mochapjwill do! I have to admit, I tend to be skeptical of all-natural houses because the fragrances never seem to measure up but the reviews have been so good.

Re: Fragrance Junkie Central

i've been on a real guerlain samsara edp kick lately !! it is, to my nose, primarily a sandalwood-ylang ylang-iris concoction, and perhaps the most geniusly blended irises i've encountered (and mine isn't even a vintage version !). it's very soothing, and currently my favorite my-skin-but-better scent. it's been a bit of a slow burn of like-to-love but it's all i've been wanting to grab the past week or so. 

 

its (original) bottle, branding and marketing were RED. but to my nose, samsara is blue velvet.

 

here's the original add when it was launched in 1989

Fragrance Junkie Central

Birthday scents. I have had my eye on the Tom Ford scent for a bit. Pretty excited to have it in my collection. And of course, I had to chose Jo Malone as my Sephora gift as well. I think this scent can pass as unisex. Its soft yet you can smell the leather undertone.

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@IndyQT317very nice, congrats on the birthday gift Smiley Happy

Re: Fragrance Junkie Central

I hope by the time August rolls around, they have something great like Jo Malone for my birthday! I love that Tom Ford scent, too. Happy birthday month! Smiley Happy

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