Fragrance Junkie Central

[Mochapj]

I know there are a few of us on BT that are fragrance addicts, so I thought it would be nice to have a dedicated place where we can share our thoughts.

This is not to take away from the lovely What Are You Wearing Today, Fragrance Edition thread, but more a place to post longer reviews, chat about new brands or releases, and just shoot the breeze on anything good and smelly 🙂

For me, I recently acquired 2 new decants that I've been anxiously awaiting.  Ever since Lachaton mentioned that MMM was releasing a new scent called By The Fireplace I've been itching to get my hands on it.  My decant arrived yesterday, so I'm looking forward to marinating in it this weekend.  Secondly, I recently picked up a tiny sample of Shiseido Nombre Noir.  Supposedly it is one of the most expensive failures in perfume history - made by Serge Lutens for Shiseido back in the 80s.  Of course, with a backstory like that, I was dying to get a sniff 😄

What's new on your scent radar?  Do tell!

 

[Mochapj]

@pocketvenus just noticed this new V&R scent is iris and ink based;

https://www.sephora.com/product/magic-dirty-trick-P432808?skuId=2109536&icid2=products%20grid:p43280...

[pocketvenus]

Thanks @Mochapj! I tried the Sage one in Saks in the US and sniffed some of the others, not sure if the line has hit Canada yet. I found them too pretty for me ha ha

[caway]

I wanted to share my experience with everyone that I received as gifts from Sephora. You can find my full review of these products on the Insiders Group. I am so in love with Juliette Has A Gun “Sunny Side Up” so surprising because this is not a selection I would have made on my own #summerscent

[Vmaster]

Estée Lauder’s By Kilian Seeks Growth With Millennial-Friendly Fragrance Line

The brand hopes to attract younger consumers with the introduction of a lower-priced fragrance line, launching exclusively with Sephora.

By Kilian, the Estée Lauder Companies-owned fragrance artisanal brand known for its heady, layered scents and elaborate cases, is launching a lower-priced line at Sephora in August.

The beauty giant made introducing lower-price fragrances a condition of its 2016 acquisition of the brand, founder Kilian Hennessy told BoF, and he has been working on it since. The new scents were designed to reach a new audience of consumers priced out by By Kilian’s main line, which averages around $300 per bottle. “My Kind of Love” includes four scents at prices ranging from $30 to $135.

By Kilian's new line will now be sold in 900 Sephora locations in the US, France, Italy and the Middle East as part of a broader push to widen distribution for the brand Hennessy describes as artisanal because of the quality of the raw materials and the time spent developing new scent formulations. Since the acquisition, By Kilian has started selling the main line through more multi-brand retailers and online, where Sephora.com is its third-highest performing point of sale. The brand is also preparing to launch on Alibaba’s Tmall in China.

"By Kilian is the perfect example of how we have invested in building a high-end artisanal fragrance portfolio of brands that create bold, emotional experiences and connections with consumers," said John Demsey, the Estée Lauder Companies' executive group president, in a statement.

“My Kind of Love” takes inspiration for its names such as “Kissing Burns 6.4 Calories a Minute. Wanna Workout?” from the tongue-in-cheek sensuality of popular makeup brands like TooFaced. In Sephora stores, shoppers will be prompted to choose a flavour of love which corresponds with the different scents: fun, sparkling, hot and sweet. It will be supported by a digital video-centric global media campaign.

Hennessy, whose family's cognac business is now owned by LVMH, founded By Kilian in 2007. It stood out in the fragrance market as more consumers started searching for unique, artisanal scents instead of the more readily available luxury house options or celebrity-backed lines. His most popular regions after the US are Russia and the Middle East.

Hennessy recognises the importance of reaching younger millennials, the fastest growing luxury consumers, with a more accessible price point. He said he plans to raise the prices on the main line, which he previously focused on keeping below that of many of his luxury competitors, which can average around $500 a bottle, to be more competitive.

“We put a lot of money into raw materials,” said Hennessy. “Even at the $300 price point, I’m not making the margins that Estée Lauder wants — not even close.”

Estée Lauder acquired the Paris-based brand for an undisclosed sum as part of its efforts to diversify its fragrance offering, which is dominated by Jo Malone and Tom Ford. The conglomerate bought two other small luxury fragrance brands, Le Labo and Editions de Parfurms Frederic Malle, in 2014. According to Euromonitor International, the global fragrance market was worth $48 billion in 2016. Estée Lauder’s fragrance category grew 10 percent in fiscal 2017 to $1.6 billion.

Speaking about luxury artisanal fragrances in the most recent call with investors, the company’s chief executive Fabrizio Freda said, “We have chosen really to leverage that piece of the fragrance market, because we believe that's where a lot of the future is, and we are making great inroads there.”

Freda also highlighted the fragrance category’s growth in travel retail, which Hennessy said accounts for four of his brand’s top twenty points of sale. “That’s an element we have tremendously accelerated as being part of [Estée] Lauder.”

“[Distribution] is a critical element,” said Hennesy, recalling a visit to a Bloomingdale’s before it opened in the Middle East and realising that, despite his brand’s popularity in the region, he was stuck in the back after the conglomerates claimed their retail floor spaces.

“That’s when I knew it was time to join forces [with a strategic partner],” he said. “It’s hard for the independent ones because [Estée] Lauder in the luxury department stores has 40 or to 50 percent market share.”

“My Kind of Love” isn’t By Kilian’s only new launch this autumn. In September, Hennesy is releasing a new perfume inspired by Bergdorf Goodman’s women's fashion director and senior vice-president Linda Fargo, a longtime friend and business partner, entitled “Do It For Love.” It will be available exclusively at Bergdorf Goodman and By Kilian’s eight boutiques.

“While I am launching two sets of fragrances that represent two visions of love, it could not be more opposite from distribution standpoint,” said Hennesy. "There is so much more to come."     

 ___________________          

I sincerely hope Sephora starts to carry more of the original fragrances. By Kilian has around 60 fragrances to choose from, yet Sephora sadly only carries a total 8 different fragrances along with their travel sprays.   

-Vmaster

[Mochapj]

@Vmaster @pocketvenus I find it interesting that they're adding a diffusion line to the brand.

This in particular concerns me, re: future quality:

“Even at the $300 price point, I’m not making the margins that Estée Lauder wants — not even close.”

EL began churning out so many new scents and flankers under the TF line in the last 2 years (last year I think I counted around 15) where the composition and quality seemed to be markedly lower than older releases that it has me wondering if the same is about to happen with Kilian's brand.

Personally, I've always found a lot of the names in the current line a bit cringey; not in an offensive way, just that they always come off like they're trying too hard. In that sense, I feel like the My Kind of Love names fit with the brand's vibe, but I still find them a little too over the top and silly. However, at 37 I'm probably not the younger market they're after 😄

[pocketvenus]

Yes, @Mochapj, the new TF releases have been coming out at a blisteringly fast clip compared to previous years and some were really unnecessary. Did we really need two metallic fougeres? It has, unsurprizingly, made the house more hit and miss. I will keep an open mind about Kilian but it is also easy to envision the house starting to crank out scents of declining quality. I'd rather see a house aim lower than higher though at this point. The prices some houses are asking for have become completely detached from reality. Without naming any names, we are seeing a lot of niche and independent houses helmed by people with no formal training charging ludicrous amounts. Or "niche-ish" releases by major brands that are charging TF prices but are fairly pedestrian. The whole industry feels very inflated.

I'm also noticing pressure on EL's houses like Le Labo and Malle divert resources into developing ancillary products like shower gels, soaps, hair sprays, candles and so on. I think we will see more of this flogging of these hit scents in yet another form and less of a new, innovative or creative fragrance. Thankfully Malle seems to have escaped the new release churn although they are coming out with new bath products all the time now. It makes me sad to think but I'm not sure if Malle could release something like a Noir Epices or a La Parfum de Therese today. I've enjoyed the newer releases like Superstitious but they've all been more marketable.

[Vmaster]

@Mochapj

That is the huge pitfall of selling your company (soul?) to a publicly traded company. It is no longer about the fun of creating and experimenting with new  fragrances, it's all about appeasing the parent company's stockholders and churning out as much as possible and using cheaper ingredients, because profit.

[pocketvenus]

Thanks for sharing this, @Vmaster! I totally agree, I think Kilian’s Ouds are lovely Western/synthetic ouds and wish Sephora carried them along with some of the other scents. I do not think they are worth $500 😮 😮 but that is another story. As it stands, the Kilians are not affordable for most people and I’m really happy to see a “diffusion” line of Kilian scents, sort of like fellow Lauder house, Tom Ford. With pricing as low as $30, I’m guessing smaller sizes are in the picture and as someone who doesn’t have a sig scent, I reallllly love my rollerballs and travel sprays! Or even better, I am a total sucker for adorable mini bottles ha ha.

But I am also so, so torn. These names. These names are so terrible. They feel out of step, like an old auntie trying to be hip. I also find them gender conforming and vaguely condescending. Some Millennial women are in their late twenties and thirties now. Some Millennial women identify as bisexual, lesbian or queer. Peer houses like Byredo, Le Labo and even the overtly sexual Tom Ford are more with it with their unisex focus in their more affordable offerings.

I’m sorry if others find the names fun or clever, I don’t mean to make anyone feel bad. And I know some people will probably think I’m taking this too seriously but if it’s not obvious at this point, I am very serious about perfume ha ha. As a perfume lover, I will try them when they’re available and will do my best to put my misgivings about names aside to give the actual perfume inside a fair shake!!

[Vmaster]

@pocketvenus I have to agree with you. I am the total opposite of frumpy and have been known to be way over-the-top, but those names....ugh...seriously? It's like they are marketing to snickering, lovelorn teenagers, not millenials.

[RachFace2921]

LOL, I'm with you on the names @pocketvenusUnidentified!

I can't say I wouldn't try them anyway, but I think the names are too long and geared towards a much younger audience (and yes, I'm one of those 30 something millennials you mentioned 😎)

[michelleshops]

Interesting article @Vmaster.  I've shied away from Kilian because of the price point.  I hope Sephora starts carrying more of the original line for you!

[Vmaster]

@michelleshops They are a bit pricey, but there are those few that are worth it. Thank you, I do as well.

[Mochapj]

A new scent Deciem is releasing

[pocketvenus]

Sounds interesting, especially as I love inky notes! Although a fragrance for paper makes it sound like it's for stationary 😄 I will definitely have to try this. Thanks for sharing, @Mochapj!

[Vmaster]

House Bvlgari just recently release a new fragrance (not listed on their website yet). Bvlgari Man Wood Essence Notes: Cedar, Cypress, Vetiver, Italian citruses, Coriander leaf

[pocketvenus]

@Vmaster, sounds good for the summer!

[Vmaster]

It does! Plus the bottle has a very nice green color.

[pocketvenus]

Calvin Klein is releasing a new scent called Women, a woody floral built around three principal ingredients: eucalyptus acorns, orange flower petals, and Alaskan cedarwood. Those key notes are blended with black pepper, lemon sfuma, magnolia grandiflora, jasmine absolute, olibanum essential oil, and Ambrox Super.

I'm looking forward to trying this out!

[pocketvenus]

A new Kilian is coming called Dark Lord!

Dark Lord "Ex Tenebris Lux' is a gentleman of the night. Meet him in the most surprising of circumstances and his mystery slowly unfolds: A head-twisting mix of shadows and light, it seduces in seconds with its elegant, long-lasting accords of leather and strong vetiver, its jasmine drenched in rum, and a dandyish entrance of bergamot and pepper. Under lock and tasseled key, a 1.7 oz. flacon is carved with the Achilles’ Shield as a symbol of protection and finished with monogram-engraved gunmetal details. A smiling skull rises like a monument atop a black lacquered wooden coffret, illuminating a display of grim magnificence.

Leather, vetiver, jasmine and rum sound fantastic!

[Vmaster]

New Fragrance:

"Aramis has launched Aramis Tobacco Reserve, a new fragrance for men. A new interpretation of an iconic classic, Aramis Tobacco Reserve epitomises the Aramis man in every way; alluring, sophisticated and complex. Created as an eau de parfum for heightenedintensity, a masculine heart of bold, tobacco leaf is enveloped by Clary Sage and the subtle sweetness of Tonka Bean. Additional notes include cassis, nutmeg, orris and oakmoss."

Remember ladies, just because it says that it is a men's fragrances does not mean you can't enjoy it too.

[veronika23]

I recently received some samples from indiescents but so far the samples don't seem to smell that strong compared to other perfumes I have... most samples are edp, I think one is edt (which is less concentrated right?)  What would cause this? Any thoughts @pocketvenus? Thank you! 🙂