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I know there are a few of us on BT that are fragrance addicts, so I thought it would be nice to have a dedicated place where we can share our thoughts.
This is not to take away from the lovely What Are You Wearing Today, Fragrance Edition thread, but more a place to post longer reviews, chat about new brands or releases, and just shoot the breeze on anything good and smelly 🙂
For me, I recently acquired 2 new decants that I've been anxiously awaiting. Ever since Lachaton mentioned that MMM was releasing a new scent called By The Fireplace I've been itching to get my hands on it. My decant arrived yesterday, so I'm looking forward to marinating in it this weekend. Secondly, I recently picked up a tiny sample of Shiseido Nombre Noir. Supposedly it is one of the most expensive failures in perfume history - made by Serge Lutens for Shiseido back in the 80s. Of course, with a backstory like that, I was dying to get a sniff 😄
What's new on your scent radar? Do tell!
@veronika23, oof, I'm sorry to hear that. I hope they get back to you quickly!!!
Thanks! I hope so too 🙂
This is a photo I took of my collection in March 2018. The shelf is in my walk-in closet. There are 93 fragrances there (not including samples). Yes I have purchased quite a bit since then (currently 127). It is a very large photo, so you can zoom in a bit. Do you recognize any fragrances? If you have any questions, please feel free to ask.
@Vmaster, I think I can recognize the brands of maybe only 60% of your collection 🙂 Is that Peety by any chance at the far right?
@pocketvenus Indeed, that is Peety by O'Driu (unadulterated of course).
Here is a list of my all my current fragrances (kind of long - sorry):
A*Men Pure Havane by Thierry Mugler
A*Men Pure Malt by Thierry Mugler
Abdul Samad Al Qurashi Mix mukhallat by Abdul Samad Al Qurashi
Acqua di Giò Profumo by Giorgio Armani
Al Fanar blend attar by Abdul Samad Al Qurashi
Al Shamia blend attar by Abdul Samad Al Qurashi
Allure Homme Edition Blanche EdP by Chanel
Amber Absolute by Tom Ford
Âme Sombre G1 attar by Sultan Pasha
Antaeus by Chanel
Arabian Knight by Arabian Oud
Arabian Legend Silver by Arabian Oud
Aramis by Aramis
Aseel blend attar by Abdul Samad Al Qurashi
Aurum d'Angkhor attar by Sultan Pasha
Aventus by Creed
Black Afghano attar by Al Haramain
Black Phantom by By Kilian
Bleu de Chanel Parfum by Chanel
Blu Mediterraneo Fico di Amalfi by Acqua di Parma
Body Kouros by Yves Saint Laurent
Borneo 5000 oud oil by Ensar Oud
Bulgari Man Extreme by Bulgari
Bulgari Man in Black by Bulgari
Bulgari pour Homme by Bulgari
Burberry London for Men by Burberry
Carven Homme by Carven
Chergui by Serge Lutens
Club de Nuit Intense for Men by Armaf
Club de Nuit Intense for Women by Armaf
Dahn Oud Ateeque by Abdul Samad Al Qurashi
Dark Rebel by John Varvatos
Déclaration d'Un Soir by Cartier
Déclaration L'Eau by Cartier
Devilscent #2: The Main Act by Olympic Orchids
Dior Homme by Christian Dior
Dior Homme Intense by Christian Dior
Dunhill Icon by Dunhill
Dunhill Icon Absolute by Dunhill
Eau Parfumée au Thé Vert by Bulgari
Eau Sauvage by Christian Dior
Égoïste by Chanel
Encens Divin by Givenchy
Encre Noire by Lalique
Fahrenheit by Christian Dior
Faqat Lil Rijal by Rasasi
Fou d'Absinthe by L'Artisan Parfumeur
Gatsby by Pacoma
Gentleman Secret by Arabian Oud
Giorgio for Men by Giorgio Beverly Hills
Greylocke by Phlur
Guilty Absolute pour Homme by Gucci
Gyan: Le Gemme Collection by Bulgari
Hepcat by Phlur
Herod by Parfums de Marly
Ho Hang Club by Balenciaga
Horoof Otriyah by Arabian Oud
I Love New York for Marriage Equality by Bond No. 9
Inquisitor by Solstice Scents
Jazz Prestige by Yves Saint Laurent
Je Suis Un Homme by Etat Libre d'Orange
Jewel Blend mukhallat by Abdul Samad Al Qurashi
John Varvatos by John Varvatos
John Varvatos Oud by John Varvatos
Jood by Arabian Oud
Jubilation XXV by Amouage
Khalta "Ateeq" Oudhy mukhallat by Laroche Art Parfum
Khashab Al-Oud Heritage by Abdul Samad Al Qurashi
Kiehl's Original Musk by Kiehl's
Kouros by Yves Saint Laurent
L'Air du Desert Marocain by Tauer
L'Envol de Cartier EdP by Cartier
L'Homme de Coeur by Divine
L'Instant de Guerlain pour Homme by Guerlain
L'Instant de Guerlain pour Homme Extrême by Guerlain
Legend Intense by Montblanc
Luciano Pavarotti by Luciano Pavarotti
M7 attar by Swiss Arabian
masculin Pluriel by Maison Francis Kurkdjian
Midnight in Paris EdP by Van Cleef & Arpels
Midnight in Paris EdT by Van Cleef & Arpels
Midnight Oud by Juliette Has a Gun
Moab by Phlur
Montana Black Edition by Montana
Montana Parfum d'Homme by Montana
Moonlight in Heaven by By Kilian
Mukhallat Bushi Sensei by Abdul Karim Al Faransi
Mutamayez by Swiss Arabian
Ombre Leather 2018 by Tom Ford
Ottoman Empire by Areej le Doré
Oud Abiyad mukhallat by Abdul Karim Al Faransi
Oud al Amir mukhallat by Abdul Karim Al Faransi
Oud Flamboyant by Givenchy
Oud Kuwaity attar by Ajmal
Oud Luban by Aftelier
Oud Wood by Tom Ford
Oud Yousef oud oil by Ensar Oud
Oud Zen by Areej le Doré
PARFUMS Series 3 Incense: Avignon by Comme des Garçons
PARFUMS Series 3 Incense: Kyoto by Comme des Garçons
Patchouli by Réminiscence
Peety by O'Driù
Pi by Givenchy
Replica: By the Fireplace by Martin Margiela
Replica: Jazz Club by Martin Margiela
Rouh Al Aoud oud oil blend by Abdul Samad Al Qurashi
Royal Blend mukhallat by Abdul Samad Al Qurashi
Ruh Khus (Vetiver) attar (no brand name)
Safari Extreme by Abdul Samad Al Qurashi
Santos Concentré by Cartier
Sedaf attar by Ajmal
Sehr Al Kalemat by Arabian Oud
Silver Mountain Water by Creed
Singapore attar by Abdul Karim Al Faransi
Sinner by Kat von D
Sultan attar by Ajmal
Sycomore EdP by Chanel
Tobacco Vanille by Tom Ford
Tom Ford Extreme by Tom Ford
Tom Ford for Men by Tom Ford
Under My Skin by Francesca Bianchi
Uomo by Valentino
Uomo by Lorenzo Villoresi
Versace pour Homme Oud Noir by Versace
Vert des Bois by Tom Ford
Vintage by John Varvatos
Yatagan by Caron
@Vmaster, Thanks for sharing the whole list! That's very cool you have so many Middle Eastern scents. And ha ha ha ha glad your bottle of Peety is “unadulterated”!
I bought a sample of Satyricon from O’driu awhile ago and it appears to be no longer available to buy. I think I gave the sample away because I can't find it but I recall it having a bizarre dark chocolate accord with spice, stewed fruit and cedar of the pencil-shavings variety. Definitely niche!
I bought my bottle of Peety directly from Pleasure Factory (O'Driu) in Italy when it was first released. They sent some samples along with my order. My favorite from the samples was a rare one named Jasmine Mean Time (JMT). I loved it and decided to research it because I wanted a bottle. Come to find out that they created it as a special request for a company and only eleven 50ml bottles were created at around 1,500 Euros each! Ouch!! Anyways, it is a great dirty jasmine (I still have it).
Satyricon was created in memory of the movie of the same name. Pregoni (the Nose/owner) attempted to capture the various parts of the movie in that fragrance (sweat, decadence, etc). O'Driu is a wonderful house but my only complaint is that they only make a certain amount of pieces (bottles), and when they run out, that's it.
@Vmaster, I didn't realize the scents were all so limited! I looked at the website and didn't recognize the names of what is available now 😮 That is very cool you have a sample of such a rare fragrance! And lucky that it's one of you preferred floral notes 🙂 He seems like a rule breaking nose, one of things I love about niche!
Hi @Vmaster,
Oh wow, impressive collection! Thank you for sharing this with us. Do you have a favorite fragrance out of the bunch? If so, which one and why is it your favorite? 🙂
Best Regards,
❤️ Raquel
@RaquelBT Thank you! I have a few that I really love, but if I had to choose, it would be Gyan from the men's Le Gemme collection by Bvlgari (in the photo, the big blue box back right on top shelf). Non-hippie patchouli and incense with a sweet jasmine sambac. A smooth & heavenly fragrance that can be worn year-round if I don't over do it on the number of sprays. My favorite florals are jasmine and rose notes, and this one does the jasmine perfectly for me - a sweet jasmine sitting in a cloud of smokey rich (non-stanky) patchouli. Actually the entire men's Le Gemme line is very impressive, as well as unisex.
Edit: The collection below. I want and love them all but my top favorites are Blue top (Gyan), Red top (Garanet) smoky rose, and Black top (Onekh) leathery oud.
@Vmaster, this is awesome! I love your collection!
@Vmaster, Impressive! I’m so jealous that you’re able to keep the boxes. It’s killing me to throw the boxes away but I’m running out of space. I only have about 30 full-size bottles though lol 😂
@Vmaster: I remember visiting one of the Caron boutiques in Paris and being fascinated by the crystal urns of perfume on display. It would be interesting to see how new ownership may impact Caron's image -- whether they would retain the "old-world" look of vintage perfume bottles and powder puffs, or if it would go through a modernization make-over.
The last half of my Summer Haul. I did not include Bleu de Chanel Parfum, Ombré Leather 2018, and the three from Phlur: Hepcat, Moab, and Greylocke.
@IciclePop All that talk about Sinner, and today I just said "Why Not".
Bvlgari in the back row: Man in Black, Man Extreme, Bvlgari pour Homme, Au the Vert.
Front row: Giorgio of Beverly Hills pour Homme, Sinner, Santos de Cartier Concentre, and Acqua di Gio Profumo.
Great haul, @Vmaster! I've read about Phlur - what do you think of them? I love how they list and explain each one of their ingredients on their website. I was curious about Siano, Hepcat and Greylocke. Does Greylocke smell a little like calone though? I can't bear that "aquatic" note!
@pocketvenus I picked those three from thread on basenotes, announcing the line. Greylock, Hepcat and Moab were the best of the bunch. Personally I would give each of the three 4/5 stars.
Here is a review of each, written by one of the prolific reviewers on BN that purchased a sample of each scent:
HANAMI - They say: "lush creaminess . . . radiates poise . . . melts into botanical composure and tranquility." I say: little fluffy clouds, pink cotton candy, beach suntan coconut oil, gone in an hour with the subtlest sweet white floral musk remaining. This accord has been used in hair care products for years now - a bad association for me. First time I smelled this coconutty, languid, vetiver note was in Paul Smith London created by Anoine Lie. Get that one if you can! - it's great, this - not so much. Hanami is synthetic in feel, with very thin depth - but it does create a mood that is light, happy and playful but ultimately very shallow. This was my least favorite. Feminine and very youthful to my nose. It is hard for me to imagine anyone who takes fragrance seriously would wear this but, who knows this might be the target audience. Rating 2/10.
HEPCAT - A smokey, musk light leather, gaiac wood, pepper, saffron, redwood aroma with a dusting of hot spice at opening. This fragrance smells a little along the lines of Ralph Lauren Red Cologne but Hepcat has no traditional topnotes so it floats off the skin as if in a fog from the back streets and slips in and out of awareness. Deep smokiness, soft wood, leather, a cool fog. This is a much lighter, more masculine and leather oriented version of CDG Sequoia. I would wear this scent because it does fit my persona and along with Moab is a pleasant and mysterious masculine statement in this group from Phlur. They say it has "woody oud and vetiver punctuated by a dash of saffron, dries down to deep earthiness and caramel smootheness." Hepcat smells really good, give it that, but the downside is it's very retiring, has little projection and almost no development so it is kind of thin and lifeless which you don't expect for a "hepcat." Like a dream of, or a memory, or a reproduction of what a nice warm fragrance might smell like, Hepcat is a pleasant recessive soft woods + leather with a nice down home feel. Rating 7/10.
SIANO - They describe it as a Bellini with a peppery aura that will adjust to your mood through the day. This is a light minimal fragrance with slight spice, tinge of citrus, vetiver and emits a ton of radiating projection. This is definitely a mood and background scent. It smells professional and proper while still being thin and minimal. No particular note jumps out at you here, but it is a clean, light, ozonic, green, yellow, damp and energizing and is a very proper fragrance. Truly unisex and very minimal. This could be a sig scent for a GAP fashion model - its very gender neutral, young, not too daring. Rating 6/10.
GREYLOCKE - Similar in radiating presence to Siano, but with a clean sharp green woods turn. Maybe laurel wood or fir, something wood that is very green and sappy as well. Very smoothe, reminds me of when waters are calm along the Maine coast in cool morning beeze. Also early morning in my garden under the trees, cool and green. A very easy to like fragrance with an energizing but narcotic relaxing green plants and woods quality. As the fragrance wears on it goes from natural green and watery to xerox copy of a photo of a natural setting. The green goes from natural to chalky and kind of hard. It loses its depth and naturalness quickly, but by the time this happens Greylocke will have blended with your body chemistry to tint you naturally in Greylocke's direction. This fragrance reminds a little of Dior Granville and Dior Vetiver combined. I am liking this scent very well. Rating 8/10.
MOAB - Dry wood, ginger, nutmeg, sandalwood, mint, saffron, gaiac. Very masculine and clean essences of incense, spice, soft naturalness. True to its image, Moab is a soft radiating masculine scent. As with the other Phlur fragrances it is highly blended with synthetic musks and is a radiating and soft pleasant scent. It is difficult to make out any single notes, but total blend is compelling. This does remind me of scene from the rugged western desert. One of my favorites from Phlur. Rating 7.5/10.
OLMSTED & VAUX - a very minimal crisp light woodiness. This scent admits to having "energizing citrus, shiso, and a trace of ginger . . . over bright clean confidence." That's a good description of it. Like Siano it is light and very minimal but there is a powerful radiance to it. This scent smells like bitters and clean vinyl pool toys. There is a synthetic, well cropped cleanliness here that I would expect to find in a crisp contemporary boutique hotel scenting their towels and linens. Ahh, very pleasant, then gone. Rating 7/10.
@Vmaster, interesting read, thank you for pasting these detailed descriptions! I don't come across a lot of niche-sounding descriptions for natural and safe-synthetic perfumes.