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Post in Perfume Posse

Fragrance Junkie Central

I know there are a few of us on BT that are fragrance addicts, so I thought it would be nice to have a dedicated place where we can share our thoughts.

 

This is not to take away from the lovely What Are You Wearing Today, Fragrance Edition thread, but more a place to post longer reviews, chat about new brands or releases, and just shoot the breeze on anything good and smelly Smiley Happy

 

For me, I recently acquired 2 new decants that I've been anxiously awaiting.  Ever since Lachaton mentioned that MMM was releasing a new scent called By The Fireplace I've been itching to get my hands on it.  My decant arrived yesterday, so I'm looking forward to marinating in it this weekend.  Secondly, I recently picked up a tiny sample of Shiseido Nombre Noir.  Supposedly it is one of the most expensive failures in perfume history - made by Serge Lutens for Shiseido back in the 80s.  Of course, with a backstory like that, I was dying to get a sniff Smiley Very Happy

 

What's new on your scent radar?  Do tell!

 

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Re: Fragrance Junkie Central

Great haul, @Vmaster! I've read about Phlur - what do you think of them? I love how they list and explain each one of their ingredients on their website. I was curious about Siano, Hepcat and Greylocke. Does Greylocke smell a little like calone though? I can't bear that "aquatic" note!

Re: Fragrance Junkie Central

@pocketvenus I picked those three from thread on basenotes, announcing the line. Greylock, Hepcat and Moab were the best of the bunch. Personally I would give each of the three 4/5 stars.

 

Here is a review of each, written by one of the prolific reviewers on BN that purchased a sample of each scent:

 

HANAMI - They say: "lush creaminess . . . radiates poise . . . melts into botanical composure and tranquility." I say: little fluffy clouds, pink cotton candy, beach suntan coconut oil, gone in an hour with the subtlest sweet white floral musk remaining. This accord has been used in hair care products for years now - a bad association for me. First time I smelled this coconutty, languid, vetiver note was in Paul Smith London created by Anoine Lie. Get that one if you can! - it's great, this - not so much. Hanami is synthetic in feel, with very thin depth - but it does create a mood that is light, happy and playful but ultimately very shallow. This was my least favorite. Feminine and very youthful to my nose. It is hard for me to imagine anyone who takes fragrance seriously would wear this but, who knows this might be the target audience. Rating 2/10.

 

HEPCAT - A smokey, musk light leather, gaiac wood, pepper, saffron, redwood aroma with a dusting of hot spice at opening. This fragrance smells a little along the lines of Ralph Lauren Red Cologne but Hepcat has no traditional topnotes so it floats off the skin as if in a fog from the back streets and slips in and out of awareness. Deep smokiness, soft wood, leather, a cool fog. This is a much lighter, more masculine and leather oriented version of CDG Sequoia. I would wear this scent because it does fit my persona and along with Moab is a pleasant and mysterious masculine statement in this group from Phlur. They say it has "woody oud and vetiver punctuated by a dash of saffron, dries down to deep earthiness and caramel smootheness." Hepcat smells really good, give it that, but the downside is it's very retiring, has little projection and almost no development so it is kind of thin and lifeless which you don't expect for a "hepcat." Like a dream of, or a memory, or a reproduction of what a nice warm fragrance might smell like, Hepcat is a pleasant recessive soft woods + leather with a nice down home feel. Rating 7/10.

 

SIANO - They describe it as a Bellini with a peppery aura that will adjust to your mood through the day. This is a light minimal fragrance with slight spice, tinge of citrus, vetiver and emits a ton of radiating projection. This is definitely a mood and background scent. It smells professional and proper while still being thin and minimal. No particular note jumps out at you here, but it is a clean, light, ozonic, green, yellow, damp and energizing and is a very proper fragrance. Truly unisex and very minimal. This could be a sig scent for a GAP fashion model - its very gender neutral, young, not too daring. Rating 6/10.

 

GREYLOCKE - Similar in radiating presence to Siano, but with a clean sharp green woods turn. Maybe laurel wood or fir, something wood that is very green and sappy as well. Very smoothe, reminds me of when waters are calm along the Maine coast in cool morning beeze. Also early morning in my garden under the trees, cool and green. A very easy to like fragrance with an energizing but narcotic relaxing green plants and woods quality. As the fragrance wears on it goes from natural green and watery to xerox copy of a photo of a natural setting. The green goes from natural to chalky and kind of hard. It loses its depth and naturalness quickly, but by the time this happens Greylocke will have blended with your body chemistry to tint you naturally in Greylocke's direction. This fragrance reminds a little of Dior Granville and Dior Vetiver combined. I am liking this scent very well. Rating 8/10.

 

MOAB - Dry wood, ginger, nutmeg, sandalwood, mint, saffron, gaiac. Very masculine and clean essences of incense, spice, soft naturalness. True to its image, Moab is a soft radiating masculine scent. As with the other Phlur fragrances it is highly blended with synthetic musks and is a radiating and soft pleasant scent. It is difficult to make out any single notes, but total blend is compelling. This does remind me of scene from the rugged western desert. One of my favorites from Phlur. Rating 7.5/10.

 

OLMSTED & VAUX - a very minimal crisp light woodiness. This scent admits to having "energizing citrus, shiso, and a trace of ginger . . . over bright clean confidence." That's a good description of it. Like Siano it is light and very minimal but there is a powerful radiance to it. This scent smells like bitters and clean vinyl pool toys. There is a synthetic, well cropped cleanliness here that I would expect to find in a crisp contemporary boutique hotel scenting their towels and linens. Ahh, very pleasant, then gone. Rating 7/10.

Re: Fragrance Junkie Central

@Vmaster, interesting read, thank you for pasting these detailed descriptions! I don't come across a lot of niche-sounding descriptions for natural and safe-synthetic perfumes.

Re: Fragrance Junkie Central

@Vmaster, that's a great scent haul!

Re: Fragrance Junkie Central

@curlychiquita Thank you! 

 

I am embarrassed to say that this brings my collection up to 127.

Next haul will be December or January.

Re: Fragrance Junkie Central

Looks like Serge Lutens has new packaging for the retired scents as well:

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Re: Fragrance Junkie Central

I just received Bleu de Chanel Parfum from Sephora. Apparently it was just recently released.

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I absolutely hated Bleu de Chanel EdT due to it being a citrus bomb at its opening. The Parfum version uses lemon zest, which makes it more subdued and there is a lot more woody notes in there. I know it contains ISO E Super (synthetic woody note that you can find in Terre de Hermes) but I am really enjoying it. Projection is about an arm's length. 

Re: Fragrance Junkie Central

Hi @Vmaster,

 

I'm glad to hear that you're enjoying the new Bleu de Chanel Parfum! I haven't tested it out yet, but I need to soon! Smiley Happy

 

Best Regards,

 

<3 Raquel

Re: Fragrance Junkie Central

@RaquelBT It being a parfum, it does not have much in projection (due to having less alcohol) but has good sillage in motion - and from what I have read, it is great for snuggling. Because it does not project well, it can be worn at work with no issues bothering others. They will smell you as you walk by. 

 

If you are looking for more projection, I would suggest the EdP version (Eau de Parfum). 

Re: Fragrance Junkie Central

@Vmaster, glad you are enjoying your new purchase! I know ISO-E Super bothers some people but I also do well by it

Re: Fragrance Junkie Central

An Luca Turin and Tania Sanchez's updated perfume guide is now available Smiley Happy The description below is from Amazon

 

In 2008, Turin and Sanchez up-ended the world of fragrance with their critically acclaimed Perfumes: The A–Z Guide, one of Amazon’s best books of the year, described by John Lanchester in the New Yorker as “ravishingly entertaining,” by India Knight in the Sunday Times (UK) as “one of the best books I have ever read,” by Hilary Mantel as “opinionated, knowledgeable, sharply written and surprisingly comprehensive … a purely enjoyable book,” and by Philip Hensher as "a work of the highest criticism, one which elevates writing about perfume to the best sort of writing about wine or rock music." Ten years later they bring their inimitably passionate, erudite perspective back to the hugely changed world of fragrance, to sort out which of over 1,200 new individual perfumes deserves celebration (and which condemnation).

The 2018 guide includes all new content, including
- “Ten Years Later,” looking back on the last decade of fragrance
- “The Shifting Shape of Fragrance 1918–2018”
- all new FAQ
- over 1,200 individual reviews: masculine and feminine, mainstream and arcane, from the latest Guerlains to a 5-star masterpiece by a small Malaysian firm
- an expanded glossary
- top 10 lists, this time including not just masculines and feminines but introverts and extroverts, the best retro, citrus, oud, and more

Re: Fragrance Junkie Central

@pocketvenus Ha! I saw it on my Twitter feed and purchased the kindle version today when I was at lunch!

 

In case anyone is wondering who that is, Luca is from Athens, Greece and is a Biophysicist, TED lecturer and Perfume aficionado.

Re: Fragrance Junkie Central

@Vmaster, Nice! I do not shop at Amazon, but hope it will be released elsewhere soon Smiley Happy I enjoyed the first book and they're both entertaining writers.

Re: Fragrance Junkie Central

@pocketvenus This is posted on Luca's website:

 

Currently available at all Amazon Kindle sites, including Amazon US Kindle, Amazon UK Kindle, Amazon Canada Kindle, Amazon Australia Kindle

Coming soon: Kobo, iBooks, Paperback edition

Re: Fragrance Junkie Central

@Vmaster, thanks! I'll probably pick up the paperback Smiley Happy

Re: Fragrance Junkie Central

@pocketvenus I have good news and bad news.

 

The good news is that it will be available in paperback really soon, as they are proofing the text and binding.

The bad news is that is that it will be available on Amazon...

Sorry.

Re: Fragrance Junkie Central

@Vmaster, oh! Is this self-published? That is really disappointing the paperback will only be distributed through Amazon but I see this book was not picked up by a major publisher and is perhaps self published. Thank you for letting me know!

RE: Fragrance Junkie Central

Looks like Fougere Platine is also happening; described on the TF site as follows, but no notes listed IMPULSIVE. DEBONAIR. EXTRAVAGANT. FOUGERE PLATINE INHABITS THE EXHIBITIONIST AT HIS MOST BRILLIANT MISCHIEVOUS, INDULGENT AND INFINITELY EXHILARATING. OPULENT DOSES OF REFRESHING WOODS MAGNETIZE YOU LIKE THE SHINING GLEAM OF PLATINUM, OR A DEVILISH GRIN REPLAYING THE NIGHT BEFORE. ETA: I’ve seen quite a few early reviewers say this smells exactly like Vert D’encens, which seems odd given Vert d’encens is still in the private blend line, last I checked Clary Sage, Bergamot, Armoise Oil, Olibanum, Tobacco Leaf, Cedarwood

Re: RE: Fragrance Junkie Central

@Mochapj, I smelled Fougere Platine on paper and don't think they are alike at all. VE is coniferous and resinous to me with a very smoky dry down. While I only smelled Platine on paper, there was no evergreen forest. Also, there is nothing about VE that resembles the aromatic nature of a fougere. Hm, I wish I’d kept the fragrance card instead of tossing it, maybe Platine gets incensey smoky in the dry down???

Re: Fragrance Junkie Central

Luckyscent is stocking TF's Fougere d'Argent and reports the notes as mandarin, ginger, lavender, cistus, Akigalawood, coumarin

 

They describe it as

... a bold reimagining of the classic fougère, a structure that traditionally revolves around lavender, oakmoss, and coumarin. With oakmoss no longer available, Tom Ford has re-worked the model in a provocative manner, substituting moss with Akigalawood, a Givaudan captive derived from patchouli that has a wonderfully spicy, woodsy bitterness. What emerges from Ford’s confident handling is a scent that smells truly masculine – earthy, herbaceous, and rich, with a radiantly spiced muskiness that billows around its wearer.

If there’s a scent that sums up everything that is great about old-school-meets-modern-cool masculine grooming, then it’s probably Fougère d’Argent. The aromatic topnotes of lavender, ginger, and citrus notes give off a formal Savile Row vibe, with the sort of soapy, minty freshness one expects to emanate from a gentleman wearing an impeccably-tailored suit. Akigalawood stands in most competently for the traditional oakmoss, its spicy, mossy sharpness softened by the buttery labdanum amber tucked away into a corner. What marks out this fougere as a particularly modern twist on an old format is its use of coumarin. Whereas in traditional fougeres, the coumarin adds a dry hay-like grassiness, here the coumarin is taken in a sultrier, more oriental direction, emphasizing the musky sweetness of the tonka bean from whence the coumarin was extracted. Fans of aromatic lavender-tonka fragrances ranging from Gris Clair to Tom Ford’s own F*cking Fabulous will likely love Fougère d’Argent for its bold updating of the fougere structure, but others appreciate it even more for its total lack of gourmandise. Dry, masculine, and admirably unsweet, Fougère d’Argent is for the man who effortlessly exudes confidence, no matter what he’s wearing or doing.

Re: Fragrance Junkie Central

@pocketvenus, it sounds interesting! I'd have to try it on first.  I haven't smelled a cologne with ginger in it before.