Fragrance Junkie Central

[Mochapj]

I know there are a few of us on BT that are fragrance addicts, so I thought it would be nice to have a dedicated place where we can share our thoughts.

This is not to take away from the lovely What Are You Wearing Today, Fragrance Edition thread, but more a place to post longer reviews, chat about new brands or releases, and just shoot the breeze on anything good and smelly 🙂

For me, I recently acquired 2 new decants that I've been anxiously awaiting.  Ever since Lachaton mentioned that MMM was releasing a new scent called By The Fireplace I've been itching to get my hands on it.  My decant arrived yesterday, so I'm looking forward to marinating in it this weekend.  Secondly, I recently picked up a tiny sample of Shiseido Nombre Noir.  Supposedly it is one of the most expensive failures in perfume history - made by Serge Lutens for Shiseido back in the 80s.  Of course, with a backstory like that, I was dying to get a sniff 😄

What's new on your scent radar?  Do tell!

 

[lipstick4soul]

Orris is a powdery iris I think but mainly I can't wait for your book to come out! Chandler Burr has nothing on you 😉  we have different scent preferences but I love your reviews. 

[jemly]

i didn't know it was possible to not like sandalwood ! 😉

[Mochapj]

LOL, I think it's one of those notes I find people get too heavy with.  

When done right (like Ambre Sultan) it's gorgeous.  

[malday]

Orris root: "Odor profile: fragrant, powdery, slightly bitter, starch notes, resembles violets."

That would explain the grandma scent

[Mochapj]

Note to self: avoid orris from now on 😄

[malday]

*Just a quick message to Mocha! I really enjoy reading your sample notes. I've honestly no idea what I'm doing when it comes to perfume so I feel like they help me a lot haha.

*Anyway, I did a scent bar quiz as well and will try to order the available samples soon and report back. The ones that were chosen for me were:

1.  Black I by AJ Arabia

Notes: Cardamom, cinnamon, incense, cypress, sandalwood, cedar, musk

2.  Feminin Pluriel by Maison Francis Kurkdjian

Notes: Iris, violet, rose, jasmine, lily-of-the-valley, orange blossom, vetiver and indonesian patchouli leaf

3.  Intense Cafe by Montale

Notes: Coffee, rose, amber, vanilla, white musk

4.  Biblioteca de Babel by Fueguia

Notes: Cedar, cabreuva (woody note), cinnamon

Just by reading the notes, I feel like I'm not going to care very much for Feminin Pluriel or Intense Café (I mean, maybe it'll be okay. I like the scent of coffee, but the thought of smelling like coffee at all does not appeal to me.) Have any of you tried any of these scents before?

*and lastly, today I am wearing a sample of

Eau Mage by Diptyque

Notes: ambroxan, green mandarin, cashmeran, cumin, rose oxide, patchouli and labdanum

It is described as "An androgynous interplay of scents built around the volatile molecule ambroxide. With sensual amber accents, it combines some mandarin zest with a touch of rose, spices and musk. An uplifting and irresistible fragrance."

I actually really like this fragrance. When I first put it on it reminds me a little bit of incense, then changes to something I'm not sure how to describe. Overall it lasts a very long time.

[Mochapj]

Aw, thanks Mal!  🙂

I have not tried any of those, but I admit after reading this, I'm drawn to Biblioteca and Black I.  On the 'list' they go!

[malday]

Those are the two I was interested in as well! I ordered a sample of Biblioteca de Babel, but luckyscent was out of Black I.

Other random ones I ordered samples of:

As Sawira by Penhaligon

Notes: Bergamot, davana, saffron, absinthe, rose, jasmine, carnation, clove, cardamom, labdanum, amber, oud, myrrh, gaiacwood, sandalwood, cedarwood, patchouli, musk, vanilla, maltol.

Kedu by MEMO

Notes: Grapefruit, neroli, mandarin, maté absolute, freesia, rose, peony, sesame absolute, white musk, moss.

(I figured I should try something a little more day time friendly.)

[Mochapj]

Ooh, can't wait to hear what you think of As Sawira!  

I have a few Penhaligons in my sample stash, but I don't think I've tried anything from this house yet.  

[jemly]

ambroxan is magic, i'm finding. it's the one and only note in JHAG 'not a perfume' -- which i've found to be my favorite JHAG scent (though i want it to be "the perfume  version" of not a perfume, because i like it and want to be proudly covered in it !!)

[Mochapj]

My notes from the last 2 Histoires de Parfums I sampled yesterday.  

Today my houseguests have gone off on their own, so I'll be testing a random selection of 4 from the sample bag.

1873

notes: grapefruit, orange, citrus, tangerine, bergamot, lime, lily of the valley, orange blossom, spring flowers, violet, lavender, vanilla, caramel, white musk

This is a very citrusy scent.  It is broiled, sugared grapefruit with some bergamot in the beginning.  Then hints of sweet caramel.  Some potpourri flowers and sweet musk.  It presents lots of orange blossom.  If I liked overly gourmand and citrusy scents, I'd probably love this.  But I don't.

Defile NY

notes: mint, bergamot, grass, water flowers, pineapple, rhubarb, clove, cinnamon, star anise, coffee, chocolate, licorice, blond wood, vanilla

I was really excited to try this, as it was released as a limited edition scent during NYFW 2010 for Fashion's Night Out.  It starts off as a watery, white floral. It is crisp, fresh; lightly minty.  Eventually it gets a tropical pineapple-y note mixed with some spice.  Then it becomes mentholic and heavy on the star anise.  A bit grassy, too.  Since only 150 bottles were made, I'm really glad I didn't like it, because it sounds like it would be a pain to track down.

[jemly]

defile ny is such a great name i'd want it just for that ! i find that mint is very...difficult in fragrances. i find it grating. and star anise will take over everything (though i love the black jelly bean soooo it doesn't bother me too much....)

[Mochapj]

I wish it was defile in that context, but it's actually this:

The name comes from défilé de mode (French for fashion show)

[jemly]

bahahahahha. of course. doh

[Mochapj]

Your way is more awesome, though. 😄

[k617]

I got my samples from Lucky Scent on Friday, and I'm going to test a few of them out this week.

Obviously, I'm terrible with describing notes, so I'm just going to describe my first impressions:

Keiko Mecheri Loukhoum - Wearing this today. I can't detect the rose at all, but maybe I will in the dry down? This is all almond to me. Sweet, mouthwatering almond. Kind of like L'Occitane's almond scent in fragrance form. I like it so far, even though it doesn't smell like Turkish delight to me! I think this scent is suited for the holiday season perfectly.

Juliette Has a Gun Moon Dance - I'm surprised how much I liked this at first sniff, considering how powdery it is. Throughout the night though (I put some on my neck and wrist shortly after dinner), it started to make me feel sick, as heavy powdery scents usually do, I'll have to wear it during the day and retest some other time. I hope I don't like it, because it's so $$$ and hard to find. Long lasting and I imagine one spray would do.

Ann Gerard Rose Cut - boozy rose. Not a fan of it initially, and didn't really like the dry down either. I also unloaded half a sample vial on my carpet by accident. At least the carpet smells good?

Le Labo Rose 31 - a spicy rose. Complex and woody to my nose. I do like it, but not as much as some of the others.

A Different Company Kashan Rose - did not really like at first sniff. Smells synthetic to me.

Viktoria Minya Hedonist Rose - fruity rose. I like it and the rose is there, but this was the quickest to fade on my wrist.

Lab on Fire Made in Heaven - subtle but offensive. It wants to be a dessert, but smells like it was made with buttermilk or sour milk. Think, buttermilk cheesecake. I am scared to even wear this out of the house. People might think I haven't bathed in days. For some reason, it reminds me of cat pee. LIke that warm, moist smell with a slight hint of ammonia... yuck.

[Mochapj]

Wow, your description of Made in Heaven is terrifying to me.  That sounds really gross. 

[k617]

It is pretty nasty. In a subtle way. Like...it's not BAM in your face nasty, but it's one of those things where it takes 2 sniffs to truly offend you.

I was hopeful that maybe it would smell nice on me since the reviews are either you LOVE it or you HATE it. Unfortunately, my skin does not magically make this smell good!

[Mochapj]

2 more Histoires de Parfums from yesterday.

Vici

notes: angelica, cardamom, pink pepper, basil, galbanum, aldehyde, lavender, celery grain, iris, osmanthus, incense, patchouli, musk, vanilla, cedar, raspberry

This is barely perceptible at first.  Musk and celery.  A warm cedar, like a sauna.  As it heats up, it begins to project.  Violet candy smell.  Mild.  Raspberries and fir trees.  A bit powdery and floral at the end.  Will need to revisit; not sure if I like it or not, but it's interesting.

Olympia Music Hall

notes: orange, bergamot, lemon, mandarin, pink berries, pepper, saffron, rose, freesia, lilac, peony, blond wood, patchouli, frankincense, styrax, suede, vanilla, chocolate, licorice, white musk

Lemony incense beginning.  Spot on wood polish smell. Definite notes of suede and musk.  Peppery.  Then, suddenly: white florals.  Bergamot with frankincense ending, with more polished wood.  Unique as an 'experience' scent, but not for me.

[Mochapj]

Tomorrow is probably the last chance I will have to post notes until the new year, I expect.

Today I have sampled 4 fragrances from Histoires de Parfums.

1969 

notes: fruit, peach, rose, white flowers, cardamom, clove, patchouli, chocolate, coffee, musk

Nice, chocolatey/patchouli opening.  A little dirtier than I may prefer.  Spiciness of cloves and citrus zing of cardamom.  Sort of smells like Skinsosoft avon bug spray?  Spray this one lightly.  Sweetens eventually to something fruity.  Softens into a rose and white flower medley, with some muskiness.  

1889 Moulin Rouge 

notes: tangerine, prune, cinnamon, absinthe, rose, iris, patchouli, musk, fur

Weird musky, bubblegum smell to start.  Very familiar...Boozy plums.  It actually does smell like a fur coat.  Has the smell of 'vintage' cosmetics.  Blooms into iris and smoke - powder.  

Ambre 114 

notes: thyme, nutmeg, rose, geranium, patchouli, sandalwood, cedar, vetiver, amber, vanilla, tonka, benzoin, musk

Very boozy.  Similarities to Amber Absolute, but less overwhelming.  Vanilla, powdery, sandalwood.  Cedar chest.  Nutmeg spiciness.  Not long-lasting. 😞

Blanc Violette

notes: violet, rice powder, bergamot, iris, ylang ylang, star anise, sandalwood, vanilla, musk

Very soft violets.  A little powdery.  Quite feminine, girly even.  Starts to smell a bit like Earl Gray tea.

PS - I grabbed a sample of ELD'O "Secretions Magnifique" out of the TSB I was participating in.  I am both excited and horrified by the thought of trying it...

[vchotia]

Hmm, I don't know why 1969 was recommended for me. It doesn't sound like something I would like at all. 😞