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Fragrance Junkie Central

I know there are a few of us on BT that are fragrance addicts, so I thought it would be nice to have a dedicated place where we can share our thoughts.

 

This is not to take away from the lovely What Are You Wearing Today, Fragrance Edition thread, but more a place to post longer reviews, chat about new brands or releases, and just shoot the breeze on anything good and smelly 🙂

 

For me, I recently acquired 2 new decants that I've been anxiously awaiting.  Ever since Lachaton mentioned that MMM was releasing a new scent called By The Fireplace I've been itching to get my hands on it.  My decant arrived yesterday, so I'm looking forward to marinating in it this weekend.  Secondly, I recently picked up a tiny sample of Shiseido Nombre Noir.  Supposedly it is one of the most expensive failures in perfume history - made by Serge Lutens for Shiseido back in the 80s.  Of course, with a backstory like that, I was dying to get a sniff 😄

 

What's new on your scent radar?  Do tell!

 

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Re: Fragrance Junkie Central

Vanilla lovers! I bought a bottle of Dior VANILLA DIORAMA this weekend. OMG run to sniff. Love it.

 

The citrus opening dries down fast and it is a slightly spicy warm vanilla left. 

Re: Fragrance Junkie Central

Sounds lovely thanks for the recommendation 😀 

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Last one today! Puredistance is releasing its 12th scent, No. 12

 

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The nose is Nathalie Feisthauer whose work includes Hermes' Eau de Merveilles, Etat Libre's Putain des Palaces and Delicious Closet Queen and multiple fragrances for designer houses.

 

The scent was originally called Gold Taffeta and is described as a rich chypre.

 

Notes

T: Bergamot oil, Mandarin oil, Cardamom oil, Coriander oil, Ylang Ylang oil, Narcissus abs
M: Jasmin abs, Rose oil, Geranium oil, Lily of the Valley, Orange Blossom, Osmanthus abs,
Orris butter, Heliotrope, Hedione HC
B: Vetyver, Sandalwood oil, Patchouli oil, Oak moss, Tonka, Ambrette note, Ambroxan,
Vanilla, Musks.

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Maverick Bruno Fazzolari is coming out with an LE scent, Pantoum. I kind of don't like how the bottle actually reads "Limited Edition" but will always be down for testing a Fazzolari.

 

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Notes: Bergamot, Grapefruit, Mandarin, Neroli, Magnolia, Cedar, Labdanum, Oakmoss

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I really love Dusita, and Anamcara sounds like a very pretty floral composition.

 

The opening, an invigorating Blood Orange from Italy announces a profoundly comforting Orange Flower from Tunisia, accented by delicate flower nuances from our Freesia Accord.

 

At the heart of ANAMСARA, our exclusive Tea Accord, embellished by Peach/Apricot tones and Vanilla Absolute from Madagaskar, harmonically blends with the spectacular floralcy and inherent fruitiness of Rose de Mai from Grasse,
Tuberose Absolute from India and night-blooming Jasmine Sambac from India.

 

The base notes, the serene woodiness of earthy Patchouli from Indonesia, creamy Sandalwood from Australia, meditative Cedarwood Virginia, and grassy Vetiver from Haiti provides depth to the composition.

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Amouage is really cranking out the new releases these days.

 

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Silver Oud is described as Opening with Patchouli Molecular Distillation, Cypriol Oil, and Virginia Cedar Oil, confusion lies in the lack of an expected top note. Instead, a wide variety of woods come to the fore, announcing a deep evolution. At the heart of the creation, an exquisitely rich quality Oud Assam Oil dances in unison with a deep Vanilla (Madagascar) Absolute as a beautiful duo of contrasts. Meanwhile, Ambrarome, Birch Oil, Guaiac Wood Oil, and Castoreum leave dark sillage imprints on the skin, the smoky woods blending together in an endless finale.

 

I can't recall if I posted about a couple earlier releases as well, Material for Woman and Boundless for Men

 

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Masterfully brought to life by perfumers Karine Vinchon-Spehner and Cécile Zarokian under the creative direction of Renaud Salmon, Boundless and Material embody the power of liberation. "Boundless and Material are traditional woody-spicy-ambery creations.

 

In Boundless, this rite of spring comes alive through tones of spices, clear and crisp, dancing in the shade of deep and somber trees. A stark contrast of warm Cinnamon Leaf and exalting Blood Orange bridged by a fruity Ginger gives way to a heart where Myrrh Resinoid and brittle Tobacco Leaves gleam, at turns honeyed and bitter, while here and there sparks camphoraceous Cardamom, its cold bite gripping onto zingy accents of Papyrus Oil before fading in the mellow haze of a rare and silky Madagascar Vanilla CO2 Extract. Shying behind an Oakmoss veil, Balsams diffuse their hushed and sticky warmth, the Frankincense and the Elemi and the smoky Guaiacwood, their waxiness emphasasing that of an even darker, fruitier, richer Bourbon Vanilla Absolute, shimmering like jungle's very jewel.

 

Material is not a mere study on Vanilla: it is Vanilla untamed and unleashed. The opening shines under the angelic halo of Frankincense and Elemi, together rising in billows of light, their citrusy zest turning the material Vanilla Absolute into a hallowed balm. They herald with a bright and golden hue the entrance of Benzoin melding into a cloud of Tonka Bean that covers like a shroud a tiaré-like Vanilla before its fall into a crackling pyre of dry woods. The ambery purr of Labdanum, the cocoa-rich dampness of Patchouli and the animalic might of Oud highlight the dark side of their Queen, yet light still prevails through the honeyed-apricot flesh of a plush Osmanthus bloom steeped in a pool of White Musks ending the finale and taking Vanilla to a heavenly realm.

 

These sound more like the traditional Christopher Chong Amouages. I'll try to sample these when I can.

Re: Fragrance Junkie Central

New TF trademark possibly fragrance related 

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starlit

 

Jo Malone will launch Starlit Mandarin & Honey, a new limited edition fragrance for holiday 2021, next month. In addition, Orange Bitters and White Moss & Snowdrop will be reissued for the season.

 

In addition to its namesake notes, Starlit Mandarin & Honey will feature coumarin.

Re: Fragrance Junkie Central

Hmm sounds interesting. 

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@pocketvenus, I had to look up coumarin but from what I found out, the addition of coumarin will give it that holiday tie in. 

@LCResz, you may already have heard about this new scent. 

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Two new scents from Commodety for preorder:

 

- Milk:  We paired the nostalgia of a cold cup of Milk with rich, toasty elements. It’s your childhood Milk and cookies: all grown up.

 

- Paper (rerelease):  By request, we’ve dusted off Paper and added it back into our assortment. A woody, second skin scent spotlighting Iso E Super--a molecular note that plays off your natural scent-- for a soft Sandalwood trail that is truly unique.

 

Having been lactose intolerant since the day I was born (no joke), Milk does not sound appealing.  With Paper, I'm not sure what my "natural scent" is.  Isn't that why we take showers and use perfumes--to make sure we don't smell...uh..."natural."

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I know they're popular but I just can't get into gourmand fragrances.  I grew up in the 80s & 90s when classrooms would smell like bakeries from so many girls wearing Vanilla Fields so notes of candy, baked goods or any kind of food and drinks are immediate turn offs.  My go to for years has been Mugler's Alien, a heavy solar floral with a warm woody base and strong, almost narcotic jasmine.  It's so intense that it stays on clothes for days and a few times can still be smelled after they're washed, probably because I use unscented laundry products.  

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@Titian06 OMG MILK!!!! Is Commodity only direct these days?

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@ChristalM - As far as I can tell from the website.

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@Titian06 lol! It's funny that a lot of classic perfumes needed to be rather dirty to camouflage the scent of the unwashed!

 

ISO-E Super tends to smell a bit woody and it has an enhancing, blurring effect on perfumes which is maybe why the ad copy references skin. I wouldn't describe it as the scent of skin though. Though for such an innocuous sounding aromachemical, some people can really dislike it! I personally am good with ISO-E Super heavy scents 🙂

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Thanks for the explanation, @pocketvenus !  It sounds much more interesting now.  I'm certainly not going to preorder, but I wouldn't mind trying a sample.

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FYI, Atelier Cologne fans, the house is discontinuing a few scents. Check the list because you can snag a fave in the Labour Day sale before they're gone forever! I can't tag them all but I saw a few in the sale.

 

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LV now has an iris with Spell On You. Concocted by the house’s Master Perfumer Jacques Cavallier Belletrud, the perfume is infused with notes of iris pallida from Florence, rose from Grasse, sambac jasmine from China and acacia flower from Egypt. On top of its dominant floral scents, the white musk tinged with a velvety peach note evokes the feeling of comfort.

Re: Fragrance Junkie Central

Some more info on Ebene Fume

 

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The scent represents the mystical ancient essence of Palo Santo wood, whose scent and smoke are believed to cleanse negative energy. There is also ebony wood that stands for calm and enlightened luxury.

 

Mindfulness meeting opulence, Ébène Fumé promises a fragrance of transcendental aura and spiritual peace, focused on warm woody notes, fresh herbs, resins, and sumptuous flowers. Palo Santo wood releases purifying mystical aromas that mix earthy, woody, and floral aromas, as well as pine needles and incense.

 

Black pepper and violet leaf open the composition. The heart emphasizes smoky and leathery notes and contains Spanish labdanum absolute, papyrus, and rose. African ebony is encompassed by notes of leather and resins. Its intensity is enhanced by guaiac wood and natural balsamic ingredients.

 

Top notes: Palo Santo, violet leaf, incense, black pepper
Heart: labdanum, papyrus, rose, cade, leather
Base: ebony, guaiac wood, resins

 

The copy is a bit much, and I'm not sure what "enlightened luxury" is supposed to mean. The phrase brings to mind the chichi retreat in that new television show Nine Perfect Strangers, a kind of California pseudo spiritual IG bait wellness meets Stanford psychology experiment resort run by an unhinged, detoxed Nicole Kidman with a Russian accent. Maybe she comes to mind because both the ad copy and this show seem to be delivered with zero irony whatsoever.

 

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Copy aside, these notes sound fantastic. I've been kind of lukewarm with Tom Ford for awhile but am quite looking forward to this!

 

@Mochapj 

Re: Fragrance Junkie Central

@pocketvenus - This notes in this one sound nice.  I hope I can get a whiff.  I could use some calm and peace and negative energy removal...

Re: Fragrance Junkie Central

Frederic Malle is releasing a new fragrance!

 

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Malle is coming out with a new scent by Anne Flipo, the nose behind Armani's Acqua di Gioia, YSL's Libre and a number of Jo Malones and L'Artisan Parfumeurs.

It belongs to the classic family of green chypre fragrances, which has been given a modern twist. The composition is based on rich basil, hyacinth, and lily of the valley, with additional intensity achieved through the synthetic note of black currant. The base contains patchouli; and a combination of natural and synthetic accords

 

Top notes: black currant, basil, galbanum
Heart: jasmine, hyacinth, lily of the valley, almond, ylang-ylang
Base: patchouli, oakmoss

 

Wow, I love green floral scents and the whole 70s vibe so I'll be looking forward to smelling this. There's a video on YouTube about the fragrance and how it's based on Estee Lauder's Private Collection that's worth watching if you're curious.

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