Fragrance Junkie Central

[Mochapj]

I know there are a few of us on BT that are fragrance addicts, so I thought it would be nice to have a dedicated place where we can share our thoughts.

This is not to take away from the lovely What Are You Wearing Today, Fragrance Edition thread, but more a place to post longer reviews, chat about new brands or releases, and just shoot the breeze on anything good and smelly 🙂

For me, I recently acquired 2 new decants that I've been anxiously awaiting.  Ever since Lachaton mentioned that MMM was releasing a new scent called By The Fireplace I've been itching to get my hands on it.  My decant arrived yesterday, so I'm looking forward to marinating in it this weekend.  Secondly, I recently picked up a tiny sample of Shiseido Nombre Noir.  Supposedly it is one of the most expensive failures in perfume history - made by Serge Lutens for Shiseido back in the 80s.  Of course, with a backstory like that, I was dying to get a sniff 😄

What's new on your scent radar?  Do tell!

 

[Mochapj]

@pocketvenus that was my first thought, too.

[pocketvenus]

More new releases, Kilian's latest addition to the Narcotics collection, Kiss from a Rose

Perfumer Alberto Morillas created this new perfume, described as a vibrant and airy floral bouquet of May rose from France and Chinese sambac jasmine; green, fruity, and slightly sweet. Fresh and sharp vegetal notes open the composition, while rich and multi-layered musk accents are placed in the base.

Top notes: vegetal accords, black currant
Heart: May rose absolute, Chinese sambac jasmine
Base: white musk, cypriol

[pocketvenus]

New Amouages - they seem to be coming out pretty quickly compared to the past! 

Boundless is described as "a burst of joy, a fleeting euphoria, translating the vertical tension that empowers those who want to enclose in their hands the immensity of the world. This ardent and vivacious energy echoes that of sunlight bouncing off the dewy leaves of the jungle, flickering in rays through a flower-studded canopy and grazing rainbow-barked trees before vanishing amongst gnarled and misty-kissed boughs."

This rite of spring comes alive through tones of spices, clear and crisp, dancing in the shade of deep and somber trees. A stark contrast of warm Cinnamon Leaf and exalting Blood Orange bridged by a fruity Ginger gives way to a heart where Myrrh Resinoid and brittle Tobacco Leaves gleam, at turns honeyed and bitter, while here and there sparks camphoraceous Cardamom, its cold bite gripping onto zingy accents of Papyrus Oil before fading in the mellow haze of a rare and silky Madagascar Vanilla CO2 Extract. Shying behind an Oakmoss veil, Balsams diffuse their hushed and sticky warmth, the Frankincense and the Elemi and the smoky Guaiacwood, their waxiness emphasizing that of an even darker, fruitier, richer Bourbon Vanilla Absolute, shimmering like the jungle’s very jewel.

“When I created Boundless, I wanted to play with the idea of a ‘golden wood’ and a gateway to a dense jungle where wood essences of all kinds can be perceived. I used the raw aspect of vetiver roots, the smoky effect of guaiac wood and the earthy tones of patchouli, supported by oak moss. I represented the reflection of sun rays piercing through the branches with natural materials evoking light and the golden colour, such as vanilla, cardamom and ginger or balsams: frankincense, benzoin, labdanum and myrrh,” expressed Karine Vinchon-Spehner.

Top Notes: Blood Orange Oil, Cardamom Oil, Ginger CO2, Elemi Oil.
Heart Notes: Vanilla Bourbon Absolute and CO2, Benzoin Resinoid.
Base Notes: Guaiac Wood Oil, Papyrus Oil, Cocoa Absolute, Tobacco Absolute, Oak Moss Absolute, Frankincense Absolute and Oil, Myrrh Resinoid, Vetiver Oil, Patchouli Oil.

Material is described as a paradox. "Through materiality, it evokes immateriality, teaching us to look beyond appearances and to realize that what matters is often unseen; an experience akin to standing in a grove and seeing in the sweltering shade a multitude of textures and manifold hues of wood and leaf and bark; all coming together into one."

This fragrance was created by Cecile Zarokian, whose first fragrance was in fact the one she made for the same house, back in 2009, called Epic Woman. Zarokian was recently the author of the major hit Ani, for Nishane, a fragrance that was all about vanilla. And vanilla is again the star of this Amouage scent. “Material is all about vanilla absolute, one of the most emblematic natural substances used in perfumery. In this fragrance, the star ingredient possesses a dual personality, presenting both a comforting side and a leathery, animalic facet; constantly shifting between innocence and wildness. The heart of the creation shines through precious balsams: benzoin, frankincense and labdanum. Finally, the scent delves deeper into a dark forest of thousands of woods, where shapes and colours become blurred,” said Cécile Zarokian.

The opening of Material shines under the angelic halo of Frankincense and Elemi, together rising in billows of light, their citrusy zest turning the material Vanilla Absolute into a hallowed balm. They herald with a bright and golden hue the entrance of Benzoin melding into a cloud of Tonka Bean that covers like a shroud a tiaré-like Vanilla before its fall into a crackling pyre of dry woods. The ambery purr of Labdanum, the cocoa-rich dampness of Patchouli and the animalic might of Oud highlight the dark side of their Queen, yet light still prevails through the honeyed-apricot flesh of a plush Osmanthus bloom steeped in a pool of White Musks ending the finale and taking Vanilla to a heavenly realm.

Top Notes: Elemi Oil, Patchouli Oil.
Heart Notes: Vanilla Madagascar Absolute, Benzoin Resinoid.
Base Notes: Guaiac Wood Oil, Oud Oil, Osmanthus Absolute, Frankincense Resinoid, Labdanum Absolute, Tonka Bean Absolute.

[itsfi]

@pocketvenus, both these new scents sound so interesting. 😍

[pocketvenus]

@itsfi Yes, they also sound closer to the Christopher Chong Amouages, richer and opulent 🙂

This makes me wonder if the first round of new releases under Renaud Salmon did not perform as well and the house is pulling back into more familiar territory. Salmon is in a bit of a bind. Chong's vision was successful, but also so singular, it's difficult for the house to rejuvenate itself and explore new directions without backlash.

[pocketvenus]

Looks like Jo Malone has jumped onto the 70s font design trend. Now available at Holts.

The set includes two relaunches (Blackberry & Bay and Elderflower Cordial), and three new fragrances: Rose Blush , Orange Peel and Tangy Rhubarb.

Inspired by the British love of jam making, our perfumers have created five unique fragrances celebrating the fruit flavors of the British pantry. To capture the vibrant scent of summer fruits, we’ve steam-distilled fruits and berries to extract its all-natural flavor and create these fine fragrances.

Orange Peel: Marmalade making, a most British of traditions. Orange peel simmers on the stove, its zesty aroma and bitter bite tantalising the senses. Warm woods are blended with orange to create a refined, golden fragrance. Quirky natural rhubarb adds an enticing appeal to this fresh take on the classic marmalade. Developed by perfumer Marie Salamagne, who notes, 

"Orange Peel took a long time to perfect as it required striking just the right balance between the juiciness of the fruit and the bitterness of the rind. We used natural orange together with the orange molecule Sinensal, which acts like a booster for orange to last longer, preserving a lovely zesty note all the way to the bottom of the fragrance."

Tangy Rhubarb: The unmistakable tang of unruly rhubarb plucked from the overgrown garden. Its bright and striking stems fill the bustling kitchen. Rhubarb brings a characterful heart to this eccentric fragrance, complemented by zesty orange and an elegant note of cedarwood. Tangy Rhubarb was developed by perfumer Nicolas Bonneville, who notes, "We also worked with warm woods and clary sage to add elegance and refinement to this cologne. Our wonderful rhubarb fruit extract gives things a unisex quality and adds a hint of bitterness that works so well."

Elderflower Cordial: Delicate elderflower buds harvested from the hedgerows on a cloudless morning. The soft, powdery appeal of these tiny white flowers inspire a very British recipe. Their floral notes are complemented by hawthorn and mixed with the tartness of summer-green gooseberries.

Rose Blush: Delicate rose petals suspended in a delectable jelly. The charm of these blushing pink petals inspires a prized preserve. Vibrant basil and a juicy note of lychee add a modern twist to this pretty floral scent, cocooned in the comforting embrace of white musk. Rose Blush was developed by perfumer Nicolas Bonneville, "We did a lot of work on the texture of Rose Blush, really trying to tease out that transparent jelly effect. This was quite challenging, because with most extracts of rose you get something a bit honeyed and even a bit spicy, which can translate as quite old-fashioned. We worked hard to make our rose petal-fresh and added a hint of basil leaf in the top notes for a green, herbaceous twist."

[ChristalM]

@pocketvenus I can't resist rhubarb and last day of sale right? Oh dear....I ordered.

[curlychiquita]

Yay! Definitely let us know how you like it, @ChristalM!

[ChristalM]

@curlychiquita So I received it and have drowned myself it in for the past two days! LOL.

Beautiful fragrance, just as I expected a nice sharp green rhubarb. Love it. Also as expected, not a power house in terms of sillage or longevity but I love it nonetheless! Great summer fragrance!

[blackkitty2014]

@ChristalM @I’m so glad that you love it. I’m eyeing on the Rose one but couldn’t pull myself to pull the trigger. 😂🤣

[curlychiquita]

That's awesome to hear, @ChristalM!  Thank you! 💗

[ChristalM]

@curlychiquita  will do! NOW MUST STOP SHOPPING

[Samtian]

@pocketvenus Oh I freaking love those bottles lol. Even though I can't smell I still really want to get those. 

[curlychiquita]

@Samtian I'm sorry to hear that your sense of smell hasn't come back yet. ☹️

[Samtian]

@curlychiquita Thank you! Hopefully someday, I'm tired of phantom smells lol. 

[pocketvenus]

@Samtian Oh Samtian! I'm sorry to hear this has gone on so long. I also hope you fully regain your sense of smell back and that the phantom smells are at least pleasant.

[Samtian]

@pocketvenus Thank you! The phantom smells are horrible. Either smoke, nail polish remover or nail polish remover and burnt rubber, or very very heavy cleaning chemicals. 

[pocketvenus]

@Samtian Oof, the smoke and burnt rubber can signal possible danger so I hope that's not too stressful - I sincerely hopes this abates for you and you are able to enjoy other scents again soon <333

[Samtian]

@pocketvenus Thank you, I hope so too! I have trauma from smoke in the past so the smoke really really bothers me.

[pocketvenus]

@Samtian Oof, that's really rough. I especially hope that one goes away soon!

[Seymore3]

I saw these on Holts this morning,I'm interested to see what the rhubarb one smells like but the bottles just look cheap to me.