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Fragrance Junkie Central

I know there are a few of us on BT that are fragrance addicts, so I thought it would be nice to have a dedicated place where we can share our thoughts.

 

This is not to take away from the lovely What Are You Wearing Today, Fragrance Edition thread, but more a place to post longer reviews, chat about new brands or releases, and just shoot the breeze on anything good and smelly 🙂

 

For me, I recently acquired 2 new decants that I've been anxiously awaiting.  Ever since Lachaton mentioned that MMM was releasing a new scent called By The Fireplace I've been itching to get my hands on it.  My decant arrived yesterday, so I'm looking forward to marinating in it this weekend.  Secondly, I recently picked up a tiny sample of Shiseido Nombre Noir.  Supposedly it is one of the most expensive failures in perfume history - made by Serge Lutens for Shiseido back in the 80s.  Of course, with a backstory like that, I was dying to get a sniff 😄

 

What's new on your scent radar?  Do tell!

 

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Re: Fragrance Junkie Central

New Diptyque, Eau Rihla to mark their 60th birthday 

 

Top notes: raspberry, pink pepper, saffron
Heart: leather, iris, cedar
Base: vanilla, musk

 

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Re: Fragrance Junkie Central

@Mochapj Raspberry and leather, I wonder how this will compare to TF's Tuscan Leather?

Re: Fragrance Junkie Central

@pocketvenus that was my first thought, too.

Re: Fragrance Junkie Central

o.102820

 

New Amouages - they seem to be coming out pretty quickly compared to the past! 

 

Boundless is described as "a burst of joy, a fleeting euphoria, translating the vertical tension that empowers those who want to enclose in their hands the immensity of the world. This ardent and vivacious energy echoes that of sunlight bouncing off the dewy leaves of the jungle, flickering in rays through a flower-studded canopy and grazing rainbow-barked trees before vanishing amongst gnarled and misty-kissed boughs."

 

This rite of spring comes alive through tones of spices, clear and crisp, dancing in the shade of deep and somber trees. A stark contrast of warm Cinnamon Leaf and exalting Blood Orange bridged by a fruity Ginger gives way to a heart where Myrrh Resinoid and brittle Tobacco Leaves gleam, at turns honeyed and bitter, while here and there sparks camphoraceous Cardamom, its cold bite gripping onto zingy accents of Papyrus Oil before fading in the mellow haze of a rare and silky Madagascar Vanilla CO2 Extract. Shying behind an Oakmoss veil, Balsams diffuse their hushed and sticky warmth, the Frankincense and the Elemi and the smoky Guaiacwood, their waxiness emphasizing that of an even darker, fruitier, richer Bourbon Vanilla Absolute, shimmering like the jungle’s very jewel.

 

“When I created Boundless, I wanted to play with the idea of a ‘golden wood’ and a gateway to a dense jungle where wood essences of all kinds can be perceived. I used the raw aspect of vetiver roots, the smoky effect of guaiac wood and the earthy tones of patchouli, supported by oak moss. I represented the reflection of sun rays piercing through the branches with natural materials evoking light and the golden colour, such as vanilla, cardamom and ginger or balsams: frankincense, benzoin, labdanum and myrrh,” expressed Karine Vinchon-Spehner.

 

Top Notes: Blood Orange Oil, Cardamom Oil, Ginger CO2, Elemi Oil.
Heart Notes: Vanilla Bourbon Absolute and CO2, Benzoin Resinoid.
Base Notes: Guaiac Wood Oil, Papyrus Oil, Cocoa Absolute, Tobacco Absolute, Oak Moss Absolute, Frankincense Absolute and Oil, Myrrh Resinoid, Vetiver Oil, Patchouli Oil.

 

Material is described as a paradox. "Through materiality, it evokes immateriality, teaching us to look beyond appearances and to realize that what matters is often unseen; an experience akin to standing in a grove and seeing in the sweltering shade a multitude of textures and manifold hues of wood and leaf and bark; all coming together into one."

 

This fragrance was created by Cecile Zarokian, whose first fragrance was in fact the one she made for the same house, back in 2009, called Epic Woman. Zarokian was recently the author of the major hit Ani, for Nishane, a fragrance that was all about vanilla. And vanilla is again the star of this Amouage scent. “Material is all about vanilla absolute, one of the most emblematic natural substances used in perfumery. In this fragrance, the star ingredient possesses a dual personality, presenting both a comforting side and a leathery, animalic facet; constantly shifting between innocence and wildness. The heart of the creation shines through precious balsams: benzoin, frankincense and labdanum. Finally, the scent delves deeper into a dark forest of thousands of woods, where shapes and colours become blurred,” said Cécile Zarokian.

 

The opening of Material shines under the angelic halo of Frankincense and Elemi, together rising in billows of light, their citrusy zest turning the material Vanilla Absolute into a hallowed balm. They herald with a bright and golden hue the entrance of Benzoin melding into a cloud of Tonka Bean that covers like a shroud a tiaré-like Vanilla before its fall into a crackling pyre of dry woods. The ambery purr of Labdanum, the cocoa-rich dampness of Patchouli and the animalic might of Oud highlight the dark side of their Queen, yet light still prevails through the honeyed-apricot flesh of a plush Osmanthus bloom steeped in a pool of White Musks ending the finale and taking Vanilla to a heavenly realm.

 

Top Notes: Elemi Oil, Patchouli Oil.
Heart Notes: Vanilla Madagascar Absolute, Benzoin Resinoid.
Base Notes: Guaiac Wood Oil, Oud Oil, Osmanthus Absolute, Frankincense Resinoid, Labdanum Absolute, Tonka Bean Absolute.

Re: Fragrance Junkie Central

@pocketvenus, both these new scents sound so interesting. 😍

Re: Fragrance Junkie Central

@itsfi Yes, they also sound closer to the Christopher Chong Amouages, richer and opulent 🙂

 

This makes me wonder if the first round of new releases under Renaud Salmon did not perform as well and the house is pulling back into more familiar territory. Salmon is in a bit of a bind. Chong's vision was successful, but also so singular, it's difficult for the house to rejuvenate itself and explore new directions without backlash.

Re: Fragrance Junkie Central

Jo Malone has announced a mix of new releases and re-releases for their 2021 Blossoms line

 

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Red Hibiscus features a top of mandarine orange, a heart of rich and spicy ylang ylang, heady jasmine sambac and hibiscus, and a base evoking the warmth of vanilla, Red Hibiscus Cologne Intense is composed as a warm and deep, exotic perfume.

 

RED HIBISCUS NOTES:

Top: Mandarine Orange
Heart: Ylang Ylang, Sambac Jasmine, Hibiscus
Base: Vanilla

Available for a limited time through the brand's website in 30ml (US $98) and 100ml (US $198).

 

The Yellow Hibiscus Cologne is described as an exotic bloom growing on tropical islands. The composition offers Yellow Hibiscus notes in the top that beam from the fragrance with a bright sparkling note. In the heart, rose comes in, whose opulent floral aroma, with its spicy, honey facets, wraps the scent with a sumptuous texture. White Musk is placed in the base of the scent; a powdery, clean note that, according to the house, enhances the trail of the scent, adding a softness that endures.

 

YELLOW HIBISCUS NOTES:

Top: Yellow Hibiscus
Heart: Rose
Base: White Musk


Available for a limited time through the brand's website in 30 ml (US $74) and 100 ml (US $144). 

 

The two existing Jo Malone fragrances that were added to this 2021 Blossoms collection, poured in the new collection's bottles, are Frangipani Flower Cologne (launched in 2019) and Nashi Blossom Cologne (from 2016). The first is a scent offering the solar warmth and airy lightness of the frangipani flower, accented by luminous jasmine petals and creamy sandalwood, while the latter is a radiant, bright composition of lemon, complemented by a crisp bite of apple, floral notes of rose and pear blossom, and a trail of white musk. Both are available through the Jo Malone website in 100 ml (priced at US $144) and 30 ml (US $74), as well as at other points of sale.

Re: Fragrance Junkie Central

Is it just me? I feel like the bottles look rather cheap for the price ? 

Re: Fragrance Junkie Central

@blackkitty2014 It's not just you 👀

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LV's unisex line is releasing On the Beach

 

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From Hypebae

 

"[On the Beach] takes inspiration from sensorial experiences that involve soft and warm sand, calm waves and the pleasant memory of a day at the beach. With citron serving as the key scent, the blend features neroli, as well as subtle hints of thyme, rosemary and pink pepper. The product is rounded out with a touch of cypress to replicate the feeling of a tree’s shade."

 

Doesn't really sound like my thing but the bottle is so pretttty. Reminds me a little of the 19-69 bottles

 

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Re: Fragrance Junkie Central

I love the LV scents but don't know if they are lesser on the non-toxic side.  

Re: Fragrance Junkie Central

@pocketvenus - I agree, the bottle is very pretty.  I would love to try a sample.  🤔

Re: Fragrance Junkie Central

Launching March 8 from 7 Virtues

 

sant-van

 

SANTAL VANILLE is a woody spice blend, reminiscent of a warm cashmere sweater with creamy coconut and cocoa with lasting notes of sustainably sourced sandalwood. It contains 25% fragrance oils and features top notes of Coconut Milk, Cardamom, Myrrh Absolute, and Black pepper from Sri Lanka; middle notesof Olibanum, Cedarwood, and Vanilla; and base notes of Kashmir fushion, cocoa absolute and Sandalwood from Sri Lanka.

Re: Fragrance Junkie Central

I was a big fan of their vanilla woods, so had to order this one! Someone described it as a more mature vanilla woods, so I'm very hopeful.

Re: Fragrance Junkie Central

@elise222 Definitely sounds like their newer releases are getting more complex.

Re: Fragrance Junkie Central

@pocketvenus @blackkitty2014 I managed to re-try my sample of Tubereuse Nue today and it's a good thing that I did because it diverged pretty significantly from what I got out of it yesterday over top of my body lotion.

 

When I first sprayed it, before it even hit my skin I got an intense blast of peppery spice. Not necessarily what I would consider Sichuan peppercorns, it was more like the aroma of cloves and allspice. There was also a powdery undertone to it and the combination was pleasant and unexpected and reminded me of Caribbean Christmas cake. This lasted for around 15-20 minutes. 

 

Then, a rather pungent medicinal aroma began to emerge, reminiscent of the scent that wafts off old fashioned fabric bandages. This combined with a very heavy suede which together lasted for hours. There was a slight, soapy facet but it increased later.

 

Once it finally began to mellow out, it became creamy, increasingly soapy but also a little musty. When the tuberose showed up it was a very bubble-gum-y kind and mixed with the vanilla/tonka notes it was almost too sweet. By the time it settled, it was pretty inoffensive white floral mix. 

 

I don't think I'll be picking this one up. I'm not a white floral kind of girl but also, this perfume is too much of a rollercoaster. There were parts I truly enjoyed (the beginning was so unexpected) but also parts I loathed (the middle was so strong as to be nearly headache-inducing and lasted way too long). The vanilla sweetness is becoming too familiar in TF fragrances of late and tips it closer towards candy when mixed with the bubble gum notes of tuberose that they selected. Overall, not my cup of tea.

 

If either of you try this, please let me know what you think.

 

Re: Fragrance Junkie Central

@Mochapj Thanks for this detailed and thoughtful review! I read someone comparing this to Tubereuse Criminelle on Fragrantica and I'm guessing it's because they share that medicinal edge? I also wonder if that is where some of the oud comes in, which can also smell like bandages. I am definitely interested in trying this and will tag you with any thoughts. This is the first TF release that's really interested me in awhile, although bubble gum is not really my thing.

Re: Fragrance Junkie Central

Thx you @Mochapj for writing such a detailed review. I love white floral but I’m not big when the peppery spice is dominant. Peppery scent refuses to place nice on my skin. This one won’t be blind but for sure. 😘❤️💕🌹

Re: Fragrance Junkie Central

A new Zoologist is coming, Snowy Owl

 

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A thick carpet of silver envelops the landscape, untouched but for the dazzling reflection of the sun. Snow stretches as far as the eye can see, while a bitter wind rolls silently across the sky, its hush barely broken by the powerful beat of an ivory wing. Despite the stillness of the arctic, the snowy owl senses a flutter beneath the icy crust far below. Through snowy tunnels voles scamper, oblivious to their fate. A warm glow stirs within the breast of the majestic bird as it dives, confident in its mastery over the frigid kingdom.

Zoologist Snowy Owl glides on with a minty opening, while the gentle warmth of musk combines with beautiful hints of snowdrops, lily of the valley and iris. Sweet coconut and woody vanilla swoop in to surprise and entice. Snowy Owl merges cool vitality with exquisite softness in a captivating scent, ideal for those who aren't afraid to take what they desire.

Snowy Owl was developed by perfumer  Dawn Spencer Hurwitz. Additional notes include snow accord, mint, rose, mate, frankincense, galbanum, ambrette, cedar, civet, musks, oakmoss and tonka bean. 

Re: Fragrance Junkie Central

@pocketvenus I have been wearing a sample of this for a few weeks and I LOVE IT! it smells like snow and cold weather! LOL

Re: Fragrance Junkie Central

@ChristalM The notes pyramid is definitely interesting, especially as I associate some of them with warmth! Sounds very unique and creative, so glad you're enjoying it 🙂

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