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Fragrance Junkie Central

I know there are a few of us on BT that are fragrance addicts, so I thought it would be nice to have a dedicated place where we can share our thoughts.

 

This is not to take away from the lovely What Are You Wearing Today, Fragrance Edition thread, but more a place to post longer reviews, chat about new brands or releases, and just shoot the breeze on anything good and smelly 🙂

 

For me, I recently acquired 2 new decants that I've been anxiously awaiting.  Ever since Lachaton mentioned that MMM was releasing a new scent called By The Fireplace I've been itching to get my hands on it.  My decant arrived yesterday, so I'm looking forward to marinating in it this weekend.  Secondly, I recently picked up a tiny sample of Shiseido Nombre Noir.  Supposedly it is one of the most expensive failures in perfume history - made by Serge Lutens for Shiseido back in the 80s.  Of course, with a backstory like that, I was dying to get a sniff 😄

 

What's new on your scent radar?  Do tell!

 

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Re: Fragrance Junkie Central

New Les Eaux fragrance from Chanel 

 

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An aromatic, woody fragrance that conjures the wild and majestic landscape of the Scottish Highlands, where Gabrielle Chanel found solace in nature.

 

A powerful burst of juniper berry and cypress evolves into a warm vetiver accord with earthy undertones and smoky accents, for a warm-yet-surprisingly-fresh scent.  

 

Notes: bergamot, juniper berry, cypress, lavender, cedar, vetiver, vanilla and musks

Re: Fragrance Junkie Central

Have you had a chance to sniff this yet @pocketvenus ? My sweet SA from the boutique sent me some and it’s quite nice! I think the explanation is pretty spot on too! May have to pick it up soon, will you try it? @Titian06 , my Nordstrom wasn’t sure when it was coming to them. Hope soon! 

Re: Fragrance Junkie Central

@Sunnysmom I'm so glad you enjoyed this! I haven't tried it though I've tried the rest of the line. I found them to be well executed, easy wears but too "polite" for my style if that makes sense. Chanel is such a great house and their fragrances are remarkably reasonably priced.

Re: Fragrance Junkie Central

Yes @pocketvenus lol think I know what you mean. I only have a few, Beige and Riviera, the Nordstrom exclusive  I think it is. So many other fragrances to enjoy out there! They are a great house though I agree! 

Re: Fragrance Junkie Central

@Sunnysmom they would definitely be nice for the office or environments where it's inappropriate to wear something loud 🙂 I love the Exclusifs line, Cuir de Russie is one of my favourite leathers ❤️

Re: Fragrance Junkie Central

Definitely @pocketvenus , very true. Yes I like several of those as well. How fun, my friend loves Cuir also! 🥰   I think it was one of the very last things I was able to smell in person last summer when I bought Beige. So long ago! Look so forward to being to sniff in person yet again! 

Re: Fragrance Junkie Central

@pocketvenus - This sounds nice!  I hope I can find a sample.  The couple of Chanel counters around here left when Bon-Ton went under.

Re: Fragrance Junkie Central

@Titian06 Ohhhhh I hope so too and that is sad about the closures. I haven't kept up with the closures on Toronto's Mink Mile where all the luxury boutiques are. I haven't been in forever since Toronto's been in some form of retail lockdown since like, November? December? I can't even remember, it's been so long. Kind of scared to go back and see all the empty spaces. I think some k-beauty retailers have totally pulled out of the city too.

Re: Fragrance Junkie Central

LUSH has released a few new discovery sets in the UK, starting at £49. Jealous!! The B-Sides and Rarities set looks fun.

 

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Re: Fragrance Junkie Central

@pocketvenus  They do! I belong to a Lush forum and everyone was raving about these! 

Re: Fragrance Junkie Central

Another new scent from Floraiku; I Dream of Paris

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Re: Fragrance Junkie Central

New LE Byredo, Open Sky

 

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Top: pomelo, black pepper
Heart: hemp leaves
Base: Palo Santo, vetiver

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New Floraiku for their 3772 collection; What A Day!

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New Diptyque, Eau Rihla to mark their 60th birthday 

 

Top notes: raspberry, pink pepper, saffron
Heart: leather, iris, cedar
Base: vanilla, musk

 

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Re: Fragrance Junkie Central

@Mochapj Raspberry and leather, I wonder how this will compare to TF's Tuscan Leather?

Re: Fragrance Junkie Central

@pocketvenus that was my first thought, too.

Re: Fragrance Junkie Central

More new releases, Kilian's latest addition to the Narcotics collection, Kiss from a Rose

 

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Perfumer Alberto Morillas created this new perfume, described as a vibrant and airy floral bouquet of May rose from France and Chinese sambac jasmine; green, fruity, and slightly sweet. Fresh and sharp vegetal notes open the composition, while rich and multi-layered musk accents are placed in the base.

 

Top notes: vegetal accords, black currant
Heart: May rose absolute, Chinese sambac jasmine
Base: white musk, cypriol

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New Amouages - they seem to be coming out pretty quickly compared to the past! 

 

Boundless is described as "a burst of joy, a fleeting euphoria, translating the vertical tension that empowers those who want to enclose in their hands the immensity of the world. This ardent and vivacious energy echoes that of sunlight bouncing off the dewy leaves of the jungle, flickering in rays through a flower-studded canopy and grazing rainbow-barked trees before vanishing amongst gnarled and misty-kissed boughs."

 

This rite of spring comes alive through tones of spices, clear and crisp, dancing in the shade of deep and somber trees. A stark contrast of warm Cinnamon Leaf and exalting Blood Orange bridged by a fruity Ginger gives way to a heart where Myrrh Resinoid and brittle Tobacco Leaves gleam, at turns honeyed and bitter, while here and there sparks camphoraceous Cardamom, its cold bite gripping onto zingy accents of Papyrus Oil before fading in the mellow haze of a rare and silky Madagascar Vanilla CO2 Extract. Shying behind an Oakmoss veil, Balsams diffuse their hushed and sticky warmth, the Frankincense and the Elemi and the smoky Guaiacwood, their waxiness emphasizing that of an even darker, fruitier, richer Bourbon Vanilla Absolute, shimmering like the jungle’s very jewel.

 

“When I created Boundless, I wanted to play with the idea of a ‘golden wood’ and a gateway to a dense jungle where wood essences of all kinds can be perceived. I used the raw aspect of vetiver roots, the smoky effect of guaiac wood and the earthy tones of patchouli, supported by oak moss. I represented the reflection of sun rays piercing through the branches with natural materials evoking light and the golden colour, such as vanilla, cardamom and ginger or balsams: frankincense, benzoin, labdanum and myrrh,” expressed Karine Vinchon-Spehner.

 

Top Notes: Blood Orange Oil, Cardamom Oil, Ginger CO2, Elemi Oil.
Heart Notes: Vanilla Bourbon Absolute and CO2, Benzoin Resinoid.
Base Notes: Guaiac Wood Oil, Papyrus Oil, Cocoa Absolute, Tobacco Absolute, Oak Moss Absolute, Frankincense Absolute and Oil, Myrrh Resinoid, Vetiver Oil, Patchouli Oil.

 

Material is described as a paradox. "Through materiality, it evokes immateriality, teaching us to look beyond appearances and to realize that what matters is often unseen; an experience akin to standing in a grove and seeing in the sweltering shade a multitude of textures and manifold hues of wood and leaf and bark; all coming together into one."

 

This fragrance was created by Cecile Zarokian, whose first fragrance was in fact the one she made for the same house, back in 2009, called Epic Woman. Zarokian was recently the author of the major hit Ani, for Nishane, a fragrance that was all about vanilla. And vanilla is again the star of this Amouage scent. “Material is all about vanilla absolute, one of the most emblematic natural substances used in perfumery. In this fragrance, the star ingredient possesses a dual personality, presenting both a comforting side and a leathery, animalic facet; constantly shifting between innocence and wildness. The heart of the creation shines through precious balsams: benzoin, frankincense and labdanum. Finally, the scent delves deeper into a dark forest of thousands of woods, where shapes and colours become blurred,” said Cécile Zarokian.

 

The opening of Material shines under the angelic halo of Frankincense and Elemi, together rising in billows of light, their citrusy zest turning the material Vanilla Absolute into a hallowed balm. They herald with a bright and golden hue the entrance of Benzoin melding into a cloud of Tonka Bean that covers like a shroud a tiaré-like Vanilla before its fall into a crackling pyre of dry woods. The ambery purr of Labdanum, the cocoa-rich dampness of Patchouli and the animalic might of Oud highlight the dark side of their Queen, yet light still prevails through the honeyed-apricot flesh of a plush Osmanthus bloom steeped in a pool of White Musks ending the finale and taking Vanilla to a heavenly realm.

 

Top Notes: Elemi Oil, Patchouli Oil.
Heart Notes: Vanilla Madagascar Absolute, Benzoin Resinoid.
Base Notes: Guaiac Wood Oil, Oud Oil, Osmanthus Absolute, Frankincense Resinoid, Labdanum Absolute, Tonka Bean Absolute.

Re: Fragrance Junkie Central

@pocketvenus, both these new scents sound so interesting. 😍

Re: Fragrance Junkie Central

@itsfi Yes, they also sound closer to the Christopher Chong Amouages, richer and opulent 🙂

 

This makes me wonder if the first round of new releases under Renaud Salmon did not perform as well and the house is pulling back into more familiar territory. Salmon is in a bit of a bind. Chong's vision was successful, but also so singular, it's difficult for the house to rejuvenate itself and explore new directions without backlash.

Re: Fragrance Junkie Central

Looks like Jo Malone has jumped onto the 70s font design trend. Now available at Holts.

 

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The set includes two relaunches (Blackberry & Bay and Elderflower Cordial), and three new fragrances: Rose Blush , Orange Peel and Tangy Rhubarb.

 

Inspired by the British love of jam making, our perfumers have created five unique fragrances celebrating the fruit flavors of the British pantry. To capture the vibrant scent of summer fruits, we’ve steam-distilled fruits and berries to extract its all-natural flavor and create these fine fragrances.

 

Orange Peel: Marmalade making, a most British of traditions. Orange peel simmers on the stove, its zesty aroma and bitter bite tantalising the senses. Warm woods are blended with orange to create a refined, golden fragrance. Quirky natural rhubarb adds an enticing appeal to this fresh take on the classic marmalade. Developed by perfumer Marie Salamagne, who notes, 

"Orange Peel took a long time to perfect as it required striking just the right balance between the juiciness of the fruit and the bitterness of the rind. We used natural orange together with the orange molecule Sinensal, which acts like a booster for orange to last longer, preserving a lovely zesty note all the way to the bottom of the fragrance."

 

Tangy Rhubarb: The unmistakable tang of unruly rhubarb plucked from the overgrown garden. Its bright and striking stems fill the bustling kitchen. Rhubarb brings a characterful heart to this eccentric fragrance, complemented by zesty orange and an elegant note of cedarwood. Tangy Rhubarb was developed by perfumer Nicolas Bonneville, who notes, "We also worked with warm woods and clary sage to add elegance and refinement to this cologne. Our wonderful rhubarb fruit extract gives things a unisex quality and adds a hint of bitterness that works so well."

 

Elderflower Cordial: Delicate elderflower buds harvested from the hedgerows on a cloudless morning. The soft, powdery appeal of these tiny white flowers inspire a very British recipe. Their floral notes are complemented by hawthorn and mixed with the tartness of summer-green gooseberries.

 

Rose Blush: Delicate rose petals suspended in a delectable jelly. The charm of these blushing pink petals inspires a prized preserve. Vibrant basil and a juicy note of lychee add a modern twist to this pretty floral scent, cocooned in the comforting embrace of white musk. Rose Blush was developed by perfumer Nicolas Bonneville, "We did a lot of work on the texture of Rose Blush, really trying to tease out that transparent jelly effect. This was quite challenging, because with most extracts of rose you get something a bit honeyed and even a bit spicy, which can translate as quite old-fashioned. We worked hard to make our rose petal-fresh and added a hint of basil leaf in the top notes for a green, herbaceous twist."

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