Okay, let's talk about hyperpigmentation

[thevixenne]

My fellow BIPoC women who are dealing with hyperpigmentation, especially as we get older. I'm 54 now yet am often mistaken for late twenties to thirties. My big problem is areas of hyperpigmentation around my cheeks - not to be confused with my freckles which I love, lol. I've tried concentrated vitamin C, microdermabrasion and lactic acid so far. I'm not a big fan of foundations because of my intense hot flashes, lol, so I want my bare skin to be my canvas. I do wear moisturizer with sunscreen and drink gallons of water every day. So what are your recommendations, tips and tricks? I love the sun though I do carry a parasol. 

[WinglessOne]

@thevixenne I’m in my late 40s and have spent the last 1.5 years lifting my hyperpigmentation. Here’s what’s worked best for me.

For reference, a bit about my skin type & behavior: 

Spoiler

Niacinamide has done more than vitamin C to brighten and balance my skin tone. It also helps tame my oily zone and hydrates my entire face. My biggest daily dose of this antioxidant comes from e.l.f. Hydrating Water Essence. Sometimes I add Paula’s Choice 10% Niacinamide Booster, either using it as a serum or mixing it into another skincare product. Another good option I haven’t tried is The Ordinary Niacinamide 10% + Zinc 1% Oil Control Serum 1 oz/ 30 mL; it’s got lots of BIC fans, and the ingredient list looks good to me. I got the PC booster for free during one of PC’s bonus offer sales, and I’ll probably buy TO’s serum once my PC bottle’s empty. 

Vitamin C wasn’t moving the needle much at first. I blame that on the specific serums I tried. It wasn’t til I switched to Farmacy Very Cherry Bright 15% Clean Vitamin C Serum with Acerola Cherry 1.0 oz/ 30 mL that I started to see results. Bonus points to that serum for its high amount of hyaluronic acid, my skin’s favorite humectant. I apply my vit C serum everywhere on my face except my eyelids and brow bones. 

Retinol was the biggest game changer. The INKEY List Retinol Fine Lines and Wrinkles Serum 1 oz/ 30 mL very quickly boosted my skin’s radiance. I’ve used it for a year now and it’s gradually created more even tone from deep within my skin. I currently use it every other night, and I include my undereyes when applying it. On nights I don’t use that serum under my eyes, I apply DR. DENNIS GROSS SKINCARE - Ferulic + Retinol Triple Correction Eye Serum to that area instead. I’ve used this serum for about 1.5 years, I think. It knocked out all undereye darkness caused by sun damage within the first 3 months of consistent daily use. 

I’ve begun testing a stronger retinol serum than The Inkey List’s—a mini of Shani Darden Skin Care Retinol Reform® Treatment Serum 1 oz / 30 mL, which I’ve been alternating with TIL Retinol—and eh, so far I’m not sure I like the mini enough to buy a full size bottle. I also have DRUNK ELEPHANT - A-Passioni™ Retinol Cream Mini on deck to test; considering my skin’s bad track record with other DE products, it’ll be interesting to see if this one causes a bad reaction. 

AHA exfoliation (glycolic acid mixed with other AHAs) has also been a big help, especially combined with retinol. While retinol produces new skin cells, AHA removes the old hyperpigmented dead skin cells from the surface of my face to reveal all that new skin. My leave-on AHA exfoliant of choice is currently FIRST AID BEAUTY - FAB Skin Lab Resurfacing Liquid 10% AHA, a mix of 4 AHAs. I have a bottle of The Ordinary AHA 30% + BHA 2% Exfoliating Peeling Solution 1 oz/ 30 mL waiting to be tested, and I’ll open it as soon as I get over my fear of 30% AHA. 😄 But generally speaking, my skin loooooves AHA exfoliation. I only do it 1-3 times a week, and I often layer AHA under or over retinol. 

Sunscreen with minimum SPF of 30 is a daily must. Not a moisturizer or tinted moisturizer that contains sunscreen, but a true standalone sunscreen. I use a cream moisturizer and then top it with either Dr. Dennis Gross Skincare Sheer Mineral Sun Spray SPF 50 4 oz (my favorite mineral sunscreen), Supergoop! Unseen Sunscreen Invisible Broad Spectrum SPF 40 PA +++ 1.7 oz/ 50 mL (my favorite chemical option), or—during the winter—COOLA Sun Silk Face Sunscreen Drops with SPF 30 and Hyaluronic Acid 1 oz / 30 mL which is a chemical oil-based sunscreen that acts as an extra moisturization layer for my dry zones and gives me a dewy radiant glow in subzero weather. 

To reapply sunscreen throughout the day when wearing more makeup than brow pencil and lipstick, I carry SUPERGOOP! - Invincible Setting Powder SPF 45 in my bag. Otherwise, I just carry whichever sunscreen I used in the morning and reapply it.