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Post in Age Defiers
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Favorite products to diminish sun damage

I’ve tried different vitamin c products & retinol. My sun damage has faded a bit after a few years (also using sun block) Does anyone have a favorite product that actually works well? 

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Re: Favorite products to diminish sun damage

Hi @Beebalicious11 ! Which retinol product(s) have you been using? Is it an OTC retinol product, or were you using Rx tretinoin? Or perhaps a different retinoid? Also, you mentioned seeing some results after a few years. Is that a few years of consistent retinol use? Or did you use retinol only for a certain amount of time? 

 

I ask these questions because OTC retinol is effective against hyperpigmentation, as long as it's used consistently and given plenty of time to do its thing. The first signs of results can take 4-6 months of consistent use. There's no quick fix, aside from procedures done at a dermatologist's office/clinic—and even those aren't overnight miracles. But you might want to consult a derm (if you haven't yet) about those and other options. 

 

I use a combo of things to treat my hyperpigmentation: 

Spoiler

Retinoid: the current heavy hitter for most of my face is a 0.1% retinaldehyde serum (Avene RetrinAL 0.1 Intensive Cream). Before I started this product late last year, I was using SOBEL SKIN Rx 4.5% Retinol Complex Night Treatment 1.7 oz/ 50 mL which isn't really as scary-strong as it sounds (it's a blend of retinol and granactive retinoid, aka HPR) but did yield results. I switched to retinaldehyde after talking with my derm and deciding not to start tretinoin, since my skin's fairly sensitive and very inflammation-prone. Tretinoin is basically retinoic acid, the active form of vitamin A that skin can use straight away. It's also quite irritating. Retinaldehyde is the precursor of retinoic acid: skin must convert it to retinoic acid before it can do its magic. Retinol requires 2 conversions: one to retinaldehyde, and a second one to retinoic acid. Again, this doesn't mean retinol's ineffective. It's just slower than retinaldehyde, which itself is slower (but less irritating) than tretinoin. 

Azelaic acid: this ingredient also helps lift hyperpigmentation, plus it acts as an antioxidant and helps with acne. And it plays nice with retinoids. You can get a 15-20% Rx from a derm or your primary care doc, or you can buy OTC 10% versions like Paula's Choice 10% Azelaic Acid Booster for Redness Relief 1/30 or The Ordinary Azelaic Acid Suspension 10% Cream for Redness and Blemish-Prone Skin 1 oz/ 30 mL . I currently alternate between both those OTC products. 


Chemical exfoliant: I do this 1-3 times a week, mostly AHAs. My favorite is Paula's Choice 10% AHA exfoliant, but I also use Paula's Choice 4% BHA to exfoliate and keep my pores clear. Once or twice a month, I use Paula's Choice Skin Perfecting 25% AHA + 2% BHA Exfoliant Peel 1 oz/ 30 mL or The Ordinary AHA 30% + BHA 2% High-Strength Peeling Solution for Brightening 1 oz/ 30 mL . 

Niacinamide: this skin brightener's in so many skincare products these days, you might already be getting enough of it. But I like to use Good Molecules Niacinamide Brightening Toner in the morning. 

Alpha arbutin: I occasionally use The Ordinary Alpha Arbutin 2% + Hyaluronic Acid for Hyperpigmentation 1 oz/ 30 mL on my large patches of hyperpigmentation. You can find this ingredient in other skincare products; might already be in something you use. 

Vitamin C: I've been testing different serums for the last 1.5 years. I'm currently trying an oil soluble form of l-ascorbic acid to see if it's truly effective. The product I started this month is Wander Beauty Sight C-er serum. 2 years ago, I frequently used and enjoyed Farmacy Very Cherry Bright 15% Clean Vitamin C Serum with Acerola Cherry 1.0 oz/ 30 mL . Honestly though, retinoids + niacinamide had a greater effect on my hyperpigmentation than vitamin C derivatives—which is why I'm now trying and oil soluble derivative. 

Broad spectrum sunscreen: minimum SPF 30, applied liberally to ALL exposed skin (entire face including eyelids; ears; behind ears; neck; nape of neck if that skin's exposed to sunlight; hands; ankles; feet; etc.) and reapplied every 2 hours, all year long, regardless of weather or season. You mentioned you're already using a sunscreen. Hooray! Keep using it daily. 👍

 

Re: Favorite products to diminish sun damage

First - fantastic breakdown, thank you. 
I use: Maelove’s Glowmaker or Allies of Skin 35% vit C, biossance squalane & vit c, Perricone’s vit C. I use one of those every morning

 

I sometimes use Niacinimide in Allies of Skin Prebiotics & Niacinamide, or good molecules  Niacinimide brightening toner.

 

twice a month I’ll use [re]fresh fruit acid gel peel (it stings) once a week Moon Juice’s Acid Potion - the bottle makes application really difficult and messy. 

I don’t use RX Trenatonin. Skin Medica Retinol .5 works - the 1.0 makes me pink. I’ll also use Peter Thomas Roth’s Retinol Fusion PM. 
sometimes I’ll layer on Skinmedica Lytera 2.0

 

I've been very consistent over a 2 year period with the C in the morning. I’ve had to back off everyday use of retinol at night because it left my cheeks irritated. (I was told I had cool coloring - but I’m actually neutral since I stopped every day use). 

I’m starting to think I need laser treatment to really get rid of the sun spots. I wish I could tell the younger me how stupid spf 4 was!!!

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