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Post in Beauty Confidential
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Sunday Riley: Which Oil?

Hello!

 

I am on the hunt for a new facial oil. I've been using the Kate Somerville Dilo oil in the evening and like it, but have been looking at the Sunday Riley line. Maybe either Luna or Juno?

 

I'm 37, I have pretty good skin (it's not dry nor particularly oily, no blotchiness, no acne to speak of). My main concern is anti-aging. I've never used a retinol product before. Don't you have to stay out of sun w/ retinol? I will be out in the sun playing tennis this summer so want to be careful about that (I wear sunscreen - SPF 50 or higher and a hat when I play).

 

Any thoughts on which would be best? Or maybe I should do Good Genes instead?

Re: Sunday Riley: Which Oil?

Hi, emily8880!

 

In terms of deciding between the Juno or Luna oils, it may boil down to usage preferences and even gauging off of your current experiences with certain ingredients.

 

While both oils do cater to providing anti-aging benefits, the Luna Oil is slightly more of a graduated formula with its retinol aspects versus the Juno Oil which is more reliant on anti-oxidants.

 

Anti-oxidants are components that shield skin from oxidative and free radical damage. Environmental pollutants can aggravate and trigger damage on skin, causing the break down or deterioration of collagen and elastin (which can then lead to fine lines, wrinkless, sagginess, etc.), and even cause pigmentation damage. Regardless of age or concern, anti-oxidants can benefit anyone and everyone and really get to shine when used in the day time considering that's when most folks tend to be out and about and thus exposed to more environmental elements and conditions.

 

Retinol, is a potent form of vitamin A (which is also considered an anti-oxidant, more gentle forms can be found in a "palmitate" version such as "retinyl palmitate"). Retinol is considered the powerhouse in anti-aging because it caters to all aging concerns, whether it's texture (lines/wrinkles), loss of volume/suppleness, or pigmentation damage. Retinol tends to get a shaky rep because it kicks starts its repair process with inflammation, which results in redness/flushing and even skin becoming a bit dried and sensitized. Due to this, it's highly recommend starting any sort of retinol-based treatment at night so your skin can process the ingredient while you're indoors and at rest versus being out about as well as in the sun. It's still crucial to sport SPF regardless of retinol use (in fact, even if you're using the Juno Oil, SPF is still a must no matter what). SPF merely acts as a reinforcement to insure the benefits and properties of the retinol or any treatment used as it protects and shield skin from UV damage. By not using SPF, the sensitized skin may experience more damage and be susceptible to the elements, but you are also taking one step forward (with use of the oil), and then two steps back (by not protecting skin with SPF). The effects of retinol should subside with use; however, if you find skin burns, feels and looks intensely raw and red, and the dryness doesn't cease, then it's possible the formula may be too potent. The retinoic ester used the Luna Oil is meant as a more gentle form of retinol (the ingredient list as it listed as a "retinoate") and considering it's formula firstly comprises of a blend of healthy oils, these oils serve to cushion the delivery and absorption rate of the retinol to skin. Allowing this to be more regulated and slow, this minimizes chances of it overwhelming skin and causing any irritation. 

 

The two oils can be used with one another, the Juno Oil for the day (due to its anti-oxidant blend) and the Luna Oil for night (due to its retinol use). If you're not wanting to opt for both immediately, then I would advise taking a look at what you currently may use. For example, if you already have an anti-oxidant serum or AO-rich regimen, then perhaps opting for yet another AO product (Juno Oil) may not be necessary and instead trying the Luna Oil for night can be a nice introduction to retinol use and stepping up your approach to anti-aging. If you're very leery on trying anything retinol-based currently and may not necessarily have any product that gears toward anti-aging, the Juno Oil would be a gentle oil to use that your skin could benefit from and from there gauge further on down the line if you wish to try something more potent.

 

The Good Genes treatment would be another sort of treatment entirely as it's not an oil-based product. Lactic acid is one of the more gentle alpha hydroxy acids available, making it suitable for starting-out use if you're not too familiar or well versed with AHA use. AHAs are chemical exfoliants that break down topical layers of excess build up which when accumulated can cause the skin to appear dull, feel rough, and enhance fine lines/wrinkles/pores/dry spots, and even clog pores. It doesn't require any physical component to slough off the build up or dead cells like a traditional scrubbing product would. AHAs also cater to skin on a cellular level. Not only does it focus on evening skin's texture topically, it supports healthier cellular regeneration below the surface so you're able to replace what you're removing with skin cells in better condition, thus leading to the reversal of damage and improving skin's quality. Lactic acid is derived from milk enzymes, which also gives it anti-inflammatory properties (making it also great for those with sensitive skin, rosacea, or acneic skin). This product serves to provide the well-rounded anti-aging aspects of the Luna Oil, only with a more gentle active ingredient, but this treatment doesn't incorporate as many moisturizing or conditioning elements as either the Luna or Juno Oils, so an adequate moisturizer would definitely be needed. Due to the chemical exfoliation process, saving this for night time use would still be highly recommended with the use of SPF in the day.

 

Eventually you can build up tolerance to use the Good Genes or Luna Oil in the day followed with SPF, but for just starting either product, night time would be best.

 

For any more potent treatment or product incorporation, try using it just every third night in your skin care regimen for about 4-5 times so you can gradually introduce it with the rest of your items. If you don't notice any negative reactions, then bump up use to every other night for another 4-5 times. Keep listening and catering to your skin and how it takes to the product/treatment before deciding if you can transition to nightly use or even keep it on a more spanned out usage cycle.

 

 

 

 

RE: Re: Sunday Riley: Which Oil?

I never thanked you for this in-depth, thoughtful response!
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