Re: Airbrush foundation
The key with airbrush foundations is knowing the types and also knowing the compatible primers to be used.
Often times because the pigments and delivery system allows for a delicate spray and laying of product onto skin, crossing formulas can sometimes result in slipping or your make up not setting, causing easy rub off or transfer.
The types of make up are broken into 3 categories:
-Alcohol based, which have the longest staying power, but can also be drying in the long haul due to the alcohol aspect, but dries quickly as the alcohol dissipates nearly once in contact with the skin.
-Water based, the most gentle and non drying type of airbrush foundations, water based airbrush formulas give great consistency, but their long wear capabilities are disrupted by things like heavy sweat or crying. It won't necessarily remove the make up all together, but can "unsettle" it, leaving room for it to be removed easily or smudge.
-Silicone based, this is newer on the market compared to AB and WB formulas, silicone based formulas do have more of a tendency to oxidize compared to their AB and WB counterparts; however, it gives long wearing benefits like a AB base formula with the natural look of a WB
In regards to ensuring ultimate long wearing capabilities, be sure you're pairing the right primer under your airbrush foundation. Though airbrush primers are available, I've worked with traditional make up primers and noncompeting airbrush formulas. Avoid layering WB foundations over silicone based primers, the texture of the WB won't sink and mesh well with the silicone primer; however, you can layer just about any airbrush formula over a water based primer or one that "absorbs" into skin and doesn't leave a film or layer over like with traditional silicone primers.
Another note in ensuring great wear and application is understanding the airbrush tool. Depending on the system you get, you can have a range of control in terms of PSI (pounds per square inch) which will dictate how strongly your product is dispensed from the airbrush tool and is controlled by a dial on your compressor which is were the air is drawn from. Other pre-set systems that are geared more for easy use have automatic pre-set limits on pressure to take the guess work out.
The trigger notch is pulled back and depending on the degree, will give you control over spray variances.
The trigger is activated by pushing slightly down and back to release air to propel your foundation out from the tool. The further back you pull, the more product is dispensed. The fluid adjustment nut controls how how much pressure is needed once the trigger is pushed down and back to move the needle within the tool. When drawn back, the needle moves back as well, moving away from the tip and allowing space for product and air to push through.
Pulling too far back or having the nut too loose means more product is allowed out, this can mean a messy application or the ability to easily overspray and cover more of an area than needed.
Preset systems like Luminess Air (which come with one speed and three speed models if you wish to expand and do body applications for tanning or more detailed work) and Dinair are easy to use and great for beginners. While systems like Kett and Graftobian have adjustable PSI controls.
For AB and SB based foundation, I would recommend Temptu, for WB I would suggest Dinair, OCC, or Luminess Air. Those three brands are great to start off with.
From there you can look further into stage/theater grade make up like Ben Nye, Mehron, Graftobian, and Kett.
I've worked personally with Temptu, Dinair, OCC, Luminess Air, Ben Nye and Mehron (with Temptu, Ben Nye, and Mehron for body painting airbrush projects and Dinair, OCC, and Luminess Air for cosmetic/facial use). and don't have negative reviews for them. For a basic primer, try OCC's, it's water base and because of this, you can use it for literally all bases of foundation or Lorac's Aqua Prime, which is a WB gel primer.
Re: Airbrush foundation
I've tried the Dior Airflash Spray Foundation and the application is really easy. It applies just the right amount and I feel like you use little product.
Buff it with a foundation brush that has synthetic bristlesEPHORA COLLECTION
Pro Flawless Airbrush #56