Ing27

How can I recreate Angelina Jolie's makeup in "Wanted"??

I am terrible at smokey eye but I really want this badass look! Makeup brands and names of colours and such are much appreciated. 

 

And a step-by-step would be wonderful.

 

Thanks

lylysa

Re: How can I recreate Angelina Jolie's makeup in "Wanted"??

Hi, Ing27! For starters, practice, practice, practice will help, regardless of types of make up or brands used. An artist's or applicant's ability is not purely defined merely by the tools or mediums used but rather what can be done with them.

 

In regards to Angelina's smokey eye in Wanted, there are many approaches you can go with. Depending on your practice and skills with working with darker colors and the smokey eye technique, you may consider making up the eyes prior to your complexion to make clean up of any fallen shadow easier and not cause smudges under the eye that may be unsightly. If you are a stickler for completing your face make up first, try to hold a tissue or small card (business card or Post-It Note) under each eye as you're working with product to catch falling shadow or dust a heavy amount of loose, translucent powder under each eye to catch shadow and then brush it all off with a large powder brush when completed. You can also utilize a silicone/dimethicone based primer (ex. Smashbox's Photo Finish Original Primer) on a make up sponge and lightly skim it along the under eye area to pick up and remove shadow traces without disrupting complexion make up.

 

On clean, bare lids, begin prep by applying an eye shadow primer to ensure shadow and eye products adhere better to the lid, increase blendability, and aid in preventing the premature fading or creasing of product throughout wear. Popular primers include Urban Decay's Primer Potions, Nars' Pro Prime, Too Faced's Shadow Insurance, and Smashbox's 24 Hour Photo Finish Primer.

 

Depending on the medium you want to work with, this look can be created with cream shadows, powder shadows, or even a combination of both.

 

For cream shadows, the formula allows for a bit more "working" time as its emollient and allows you a softer medium compared to a dry one like powder shadows. The unavoidable shade needed here will be a rich black, if you find that a matte/opaque black is a bit too daunting, try a slightly metallic or satin finish black or even a rich charcoal. The initial application of cream shadows can be done with flat headed brushes that are smaller, but resemble concealer brushes. Brushes to apply cream-based items are traditionally synthetic as the bristles won't be prone to absorb product like natural hair which is porous, but can also be found in blends as well.

 

Benefit, Bobbi Brown, and Sephora are just a few of the brands that make these flat-head, concealer-like brushes and they work well for that initial application because the dense packing of bristles pick up and distribute product in a more even manner. Rather than brush back and forth to apply, run just one side of your flat-head brush through cream shadow, leaving the other side clean as this allows you to use this side to go over areas of which you've just applied product and soften it out and smudge without worry of caking on too much product. Begin with motions on the lid that feel like gentle pats and dab strokes to place the shadow where you need it. Avoid going above the crease too much, if you use the brush to feel along the curvature of your eye socket, keep the cream shadow on the rounded portion of the lid itself under the crease and extend it a bit out along the outer edge of the eye. Try to have this fan out in more of an angled manner rather than in a horizontal manner to avoid having the look appear to weighted, having it applied upward also will give a lifted look to the eyes with such a dramatic look.

 

To blend and feather out edges to soften their appearance and prevent any harsh, defined lines in this look and with working with cream shadows, use a domed brush that is traditionally used for precision application for shadow along the crease and begin buffing along cream shadow edges and the crease in rotating, small circular motions. By having the dimension of a domed brush, the tip allows you to focus on a precise area but the softness in the buffing is what allows for that blending to take place, you're not aiming to blend product out to a super wide area, so that domed shape gives that control but also allows you to do what is needed.

 

I haven't been able to track down my hi-res photos of her smokey eye look, but in one image with her eyes half lowered, the center of her lid has more of a neutral tone of a deepened cocoa or stone with sheer wash of grey over it so the lid in fact doesn't appear to be all black. If you're wanting to opt into this lid, begin your color application with the lighter shade as it's easier to cover up areas with dark than it is to begin dark and try to layer lighter shades over. Begin by buffing on the neutral of your choice, check out Bobbi Brown's Cream Shadow in Stone (beige brown), MUFE's Aqua Cream in 15 Taupe, or Benefit's Long-Wear Cream Shadow in Birthday Suit (brushed chrome) for color references/options, onto your lid. Since the inner and outer corners are black, it's up to you as to whether you want to keep the neutral in the center portion of the lid or extend to nearly the entire thing and layer the black over it.

 

After laying down your neutral, begin with the black (check out MUFE's Aqua Black Waterproof Cream Eye Shadow in Aqua Black, MUFE's Aqua Cream in 27 Black, or Stila's Smudge Pot in Black. if you're wanting a deep charcoal for a less intense look, try Benefit's Skinny Jeans or Holy Smokes, MUFE's Aqua Cream in 1 Anthracite (silvery charcoal), or Smashbox's Limitless 15 Hr Cream Shadow in Stone). Using the flat-head brush, touch into the inner corners and use the domed brush to buff where the black and neutral meet for a more seamless meet, do the same for the outer corner, remembering to extend a touch at the outer corners in an angled manner, buffing to soften edges and give the look that "smokey" nature. 

 

You can always go back and add a touch of the neutral and black together to bring things up more if you want the crease more smoked out, or even take a hint of brown and deep charcoal to do so. 

 

For under the brow/along the brow bone, take a soft shade like Bobbi Brown's Bone (soft-matte, off-white) or Shore (pale nude) and buff it along the area. Again, use that buffing technique to ensure where the darker/lid colors meet this neutral is soft, seamless, and void of distinct, hard lines. Avoid using a shade that is super shimmery as Angelina's brow bone isn't one that catches a lot of shine but rather has that soft-matte finish.

 

For under the eyes, you can work with a creamy pencil liner or the black cream shadows used. Creamy pencils like Urban Decay's 24/7 Liner in Zero or Perversion work well, as do MUFE's Aqua Eyes Pencils in Matte Black 0L. Line the bottom rim outside the lash line and the inner waterline (also tightlight the top lash line), use a small smudge brush to go back over the line outside the lashes to soften and smoke it out, you can even take a hint of black powder shadow to smudge alongside with if needed to further help "set" the cream liner pencil or cream.If you're working with a potted cream, use an angled brush or pointed liner brush depending on your practice and preference. Wrap up your look with a lush, thickening black mascara.

 

http://community.sephora.com/t5/Ask-The-Experts/Powder-eyeliner/m-p/929645/highlight/true#M22521

 

The above shows a break down on tightlining and lining the water line/inner rim if you need assistance with these techniques.

 

To recreate this look with powders, an easy reference point would be Too Faced's Smokey Eye kit, the 9 shade kit includes your basic black, charcoal, and smoke colors, but also offers some neutrals that can work well for the center lid and brow bone colors as detailed from above.

 

The shades Cloves (bronzey brown) and Up in Smoke (black brown) would make great options for the center of the lid and dusting along the crease over Smokin Hot (black) while Firefly (silvery taupe) would be a great brow bone shade. You can always mix in White Lie (sugar white) with Firefly for a slightly brighter highlight and even touch into using Nice Ash (charcoal) mixed with Smokin Hot to make it not so deep.

Ing27

Re: How can I recreate Angelina Jolie's makeup in "Wanted"??

By the way do you have a good recommendation for a domed brush and a smudge brush - I have SO many brushes from MAC and sephora, but sadly a smudge brush and a domed brush I lack (at least I don't have a small harder domed brush).

 

Thank you so so much again!

 

(Also I love MUFE so I'm so happy you provided options)

lylysa

Re: How can I recreate Angelina Jolie's makeup in "Wanted"??

For smudge brushes, there's a few shapes that I like. Take for example Hourglass' Smudge Brush, it's a bid wider and the bristles are shorter, allowing for a more dense brush and ability to really press powder onto a line and also pull to smudge and blend it out. Sephora's Pro Smudge Brush #29 and MUFE's 212 Medium Smudge Brush are the other shape I like, being more tapered and having bristles a touch longer than the Hourglass version. This allows for a softer blend because the bristles have that length to really flex and work side to side, this is good if you want to work with a lighter hand and can smoke out a line without moving too much product if you don't want.

 

For domed brushes, something like MUFE's 216 Medium Precision Blender Brush or Sephora's Pro Domed Crease brush #16 work. There are variations on domed brushes, some narrow to the tip to almost a point and this is great if you want to multitask and use them along the lash line or for fine/smaller areas, but a typical dome brush will have that uniform, curvature to their top to ensure there's no super hard line. The buffing/rotating technique is great to give that buffed out, softness.

 

Happy to help, Ing27! :smileyvery-happy: Best of luck practicing and mastering the look!

Ing27

Re: How can I recreate Angelina Jolie's makeup in "Wanted"??

Thank you so so much! This is awesome and so detailed. I prefer to work with poweder eye shadows, as cream sort of scares me a bit, but is there much of a difference? What do you prefer? Is there a trick to cream, or should I just try it out? Thanks so much

lylysa

Re: How can I recreate Angelina Jolie's makeup in "Wanted"??

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With working with creams/powders, I personally find it boiling down to how much time I want to spend on a look. The more you practice with a medium the better grasp working with it, so it's good to experiment and find techniques in regards to applying and blending. Try to work one eye at a time with creams, this way you can essentially have your "starting" eye to give you a good basis of steps to mirror on your second eye. 

 

If you're more comfortable with powders, go with what's familiar first, but still do play with creams when you get the chance just so that way it opens up a lot more options. I find that you can always layer and have the two work together, laying down a base of cream shadow and using a brush with powder to build up generous opacity over and "set" the cream while also giving that blurred, smokey look to edges and the end of where the creams are.

EvangelineDamon

Re: How can I recreate Angelina Jolie's makeup in "Wanted"??

Amazing advice and so informative! 

lylysa

Re: How can I recreate Angelina Jolie's makeup in "Wanted"??

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Thanks, Evangeline! :smileyvery-happy:

laurabt

Re: How can I recreate Angelina Jolie's makeup in "Wanted"??

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Hi Ing27, Can you add a picture of the look you're going for so we can help?

:smileyhappy: -Luara

 

Ing27

Re: How can I recreate Angelina Jolie's makeup in "Wanted"??

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Totally! unnamed.jpg thanks so much :smileyhappy:

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