Help with skincare routine please

[Amysangel]

I am 40 with combo normal to oily in the T-zone skin. I have a tendency to get dehydrated skin, as I have allergies and take meds everyday. My skin is sensitive, and I also have mild rosacea/acne prone. I don't use primers as they tend to make me break out. I find that anything too active is a no go for me.  I recently had a terrible experience using Clinique's Moisture Surge - Hello Roscaea. Like the worst flare I have ever had. This is what I am using and it doesn't irritate my skin. I have some holes and am looking for some help please, thank you in advance! From Sephora or not, I have tried a lot of products and I really want my skin to be calm, glowy and just look good! 

Morning:

Caudalie Gentle Cleansing Milk

Toner?

Serum?

Moisturizer that can prep skin for makeup.?

SanRe Eye Candy

Night:

Tatcha Pure Camellia Cleansing OIl

Korres Greek Yoghurt Foaming Cream Cleanser with my Clarisonic

Toner or Essence?

Sunday Riley Luna

Korres Greek Yoghurt Moisturizing Face Cream

Some nights I mix in Cliniques Smart Treatment Oil in my Moisturizer for an added boost

SanRe Eye Candy

Mask: PTR Rose Stem Cell Mask

(Any Other Suggestions for pores?)

[lylysa]

Hi, Amysangel!

While the concept of toners have been embedded in many's minds as part of a fully constructed skin care regimen, it's actually not a "required" item that all folks need. Traditionally, toners have astringent properties that aid in oil regulation and balancing the pH of skin; however, many of these original formulas relied on harsh, drying oils to break down oils to rid them quickly and in turn they dehydrated skin. If you're a stickler for having some sort of liquid formula that's applied to skin prior to a treatment, you may want to check into a gentle facial mist or conditioning spray. 

With the mention of skin being relatively normal with an oily/combo t-zone and dehydration being quick to set in, I would inquire how your skin looks and feels right when you wake up. While oil production doesn't cease when you sleep, if your skin isn't super slicked with oil when you wake, you may not even need a full cleanse. Though the Caudalie Cleansing Milk is very gentle and it's properties cater well to your rosacea to calm it and soothe, overcleansing (even with the most delicate of formulas) can be counterproductive and may be contributing to the dehydration. When one overcleanses skin when it's not called for, it can head to dehydration or even skin quickly producing an excess of oil to compensate for what is lost.

Since you've mentioned some very top notch brands already such as Caudalie and Tatcha, check into the facial mists/sprays they offer if you want a refreshing "pick me up" for the morning. You can mist on their formulas to skin or even saturate a cotton pad and wipe down skin while energizing your senses for the start of your day without doing a fuller cleanse.

For a treatment or serum, try something that focuses on easing redness and gently conditioning skin. Ingredients such as oat, calendula, aloe, cucumber, mallow, feverfew, jojoba, and even milk extracts (including the gentle alpha hydroxy acid lactic acid, which is derived from milk proteins) are all properties that focus on calming skin and can also aid as anti-inflammatories. Ren's Evercalm Anti-Redness Serum, First Aid Beauty's Anti-Redness Serum, and Murad's Sensitive Skin Soothing Serum are all options to check out.

Due to your skin being sensitive and reactive, try to obtain samples of new items and do test patch applications on smaller regions to see how they work with your skin. Also, any changes that you're making, try new things out one at a time. By trying to change up or add in too much all at once and you can risk throwing your skin in for a shock and it may react to one particular item, but it'll be hard to narrow down what caused the hiccup.

For day time, definitely incorporate SPF into your moisturizer. While all skin needs SPF (regardless of age or concerns), skin that may be sensitized or sensitive will definitely need all the protection it can get from the elements, UV rays, and free radicals. Without a moisturizer, treated skin is left "raw" or "open" and when met with external factors, it can be more prone to damage. Think of the process a car body getting restored, the treatments and serums you use would be the sanding and painting process, but it can't just be painted and then left as it, there needs to be a top coat and even wax buffed in to "seal" over that paint job and to protect it so it lasts and doesn't just get easily chipped or damaged. The same goes with skin care, only the moisturizer/SPF is the top coat and protective "wax" step.

For some no-fuss SPF moisturizers that work to primarily moisturize, protect, and condition skin, try Skin Laundry's Daily Moisturizer SPF 35 (has a comfortable matte finish and also incorporates cucumber and healing arnica extract) or Boscia's SPF moisturizers (the Self-Defense Vital Anti-Oxidant SPF 30 provides free radical protection to strengthen skin from pollutants and the Oil-Free Daily Hydration SPF 15 is a balancing formula that controls oil without drying out skin and has jojoba extract).

Which Clarisonic brush head do you use? The luxe, sensitive, or delicate brush heads would be the optimal styles suited for your skin type and concerns. Be sure that you're not pressing down super hard while you're using your Clarisonic to avoid overworking skin.

Since the Sunday Riley Luna Oil is quite potent, having this as your night treatment and even treatment/moisturizer hybrid may be the most "active" product your skin will tolerate. Oils typically are applied after a moisturizer because their composition is more deeply hydrating than a traditional lotion, gel, or cream formula; however, because the SR oil is fortified, if you're using it as more of your treatment, be sure it at least has absorbed down in full before applying your Korres moisturizer so that way the oil isn't forming a film or barrier on skin to prevent the moisturizer from sinking in. If you find the oil may be making skin a bit tender because of how potent it is, try applying it after the moisturizer so it's treatment qualities are essentially the "last" thing that touches down into skin and thus is absorbed more slowly.

In terms of targeting pores, is it decongestion or purifying impurities from them or are you just looking to refine their appearance? Since pore size is determined by genetics, there's no way to shrink or alter their size permanently with over the counter products; however, keeping them clean and clear is a way to have them appear diminished. Since skin is sensitive, I would suggest focusing first on making the above changes or incorporations gradually before looking to tackle this aspect. The retinoic ester that is used in the SR oil will help will improving skin's texture and promote repair, so that will help with keeping skin smooth (thus areas with pronounced pores don't feel so rough) and even aid in improving cellular tissue within pore walls (thus making pore quality better and not look so textured).

[Amysangel]

First thank you so much for your excellent suggestions! i am going to try the mist in the morning like you suggested and skip the cleansing milk in the morning. When I wake up I am not oily, and normally when my skin is not freaking out I feel normal. Using that to refresh is a great idea.

I am not stuck on a toner, just wasn't sure if I needed one or am missing some benefits there.

I am going to pick up a few samples of the serums you suggested to try out. I have been looking at Ren so I will go with that one first.

I have been moisturizing but it seems that I have been going to active due to aging. Or I got weird breakouts. I loved Belif's Aqua Bomb but I got weird breakouts. Sunday Riley's Luna is another love but it was too active for me. I have had good luck with Clarins, but the sensitive skin line seems to be the only thing I can use. And the Lotus Oil. I have been enjoying the Korres but don't really love it during the day. But since Clinques moisture surge made my skin flare so badly, I am using the Korres for the meantime. I think I will add in the serum and then go from there with the moisturizer suggestions. Like you said, one thing at a time.

I use the sensitive brush head on my Clarisonic. I haven't tired any of the other brush heads, but I may pick one of those up in April. That is when I will need a new brush head.

Of all Sunday Riley products Luna is about the only one I can use. My skin responds really to this treatment oil. I typically double cleanse (on makeup days) Apply eye cream and make sure my skin is dry. Then apply Luna and wait about 10-15 mins before I put on the Korres moisturizer. I may try after my moisturizer on some nights if my skin is a little tender.

As for the mask, yes the Luna has really helped with my pores and how they look. I know nothing will shrink them for me! lol I love the PTR Rose Stem Cell Mask for the brightening and soothing affects. My skin responds really well to that mask so I was looking at some of his other masks but wasn't sure which one to go for.  I was looking more for a decongesting mask that wouldn't be to potent or make my skin overly dehydrated. I do get clogged pores and some hormonal acne from month to month. Always around my chin and mouth.

Thank you again! And I really appreciate your advice!

[lylysa]

You're welcome!

It seems after the recap you've got a good handle on what needs to take place, so the next steps would be to explore some products, get samples, and try out those changes/new items gradually. If needed, begin a skin care journal to document steps, products used, and even external factors like sleep, stress, water intake, and dietary practices which can also all factor into affecting skin.

If you're up for trying more PTR masks, I would suggest the Blue Marine Algea or Cucumber ones next, as they're more about calming, soothing, and gently conditioning skin.

All the best and please let me know if you may need to touch base down the line after you begin to make adjustments!

[Amysangel]

I will definitely send you a PM once I try some of these products and see how my skin is coming along. Since I had such the bad flare with my rosacea last night I put Luna on top of my moisturizer and I think that really made a difference until my skin calms down again.

Have a great day and again I really appreciate all of your advice and recommendations.

[Amysangel]

@lylysa? I know you have a lot of info, any suggestions?

[lylysa]

Funny enough, Amysangel! I was already responding when you tagged me! 🙂

[Amysangel]

Thank you so much! I have been stalking a little! lol A fan of your detailed answers! I am going to respond above to everything you said!

[lylysa]

You're welcome! And thank you for thinking of me, I'm glad my activity here in BT has made you feel comfortable and confident to turn to me.

Looking forward to hearing back from you to my post above. Feel free to reach out to me via personal message any time too if you ever want some one-on-one outside of a public thread!