Expression lines

[lisalisa45]

Is it okay to use night cream for both day and night? I am in my late forties and I have large expression lines. I have not found a product that truly works for me. I thought maybe if I tried this, I might see a difference.  Any recommendations on products? I would like to stay around the $65-75 price point. Thank you!!

[lisalisa45]

Thank you!!

[lylysa]

You're welcome! 🙂

[lylysa]

Hi, Lisalisa45!

If you utilize your night cream for the morning, be sure you're still incorporating SPF into your daily regimen to ensure skin is protected from the sun and environmental aggressors. While many makeup formulas have SPF to them, it's uncommon that one would utilize enough of that product to merit the level of protection marked, so try to opt for a thin-bodied sunscreen to layer over your night cream.

While face creams (day or night) are quite fortified with many beneficial ingredients, if your main concern are the expression lines, you may wish to incorporate a serum or treatment into your regimen prior to applying any of your face creams. A moisturizer such as a face cream will primarily focus first and foremost on delivering ample and balanced hydration to skin, which in turn can soften the appearance of fine lines or wrinkles (think of your skin as a sponge, when it's dried the texture is very apparent and the shape is even shrunken; however, when wet, it's plumped in shape and doesn't appear as rough, that's how a moisturizer essentially caters to skin). Moisturizer alone won't be the most effective and direct method to treat target areas because it's applied all over, a serum or treatment will allow for a more concentrated application of active ingredients to improve skin.

What night and day creams are you currently using?

There are a host of ingredients that can aid in improving the texture and appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, below is a basic break down of some to keep an eye out for:

-Retinol, the "star" of the anti-aging world, this covers a broad spectrum of concerns because of its ability to kick start collagen production in skin (thus plumping to soften textural issues and improving suppleness and resiliency), repair damage, and chemically exfoliate skin while supporting healthier cellular regeneration (sloughing off topical layers of build up that can worsen or emphasize lines but also ensuring healthier cells are replacing what is lost)

-Alpha/beta hydroxy acids, AHA are broken down primarily into glycolic (sourced from sugar enzymes of papaya, sugar maple, sugar cane, pineapple, and pumpkin), lactic (sourced from milk enzymes/proteins), citric (sourced from citrus fruits like orange, grapefruit, and lemon), mandelic (sourced from apples and bitter almonds), and TCA (trichloroacetic acid, not often readily available in over the counter products and available through licensed skin care professionals). BHA is salicylic acid that also regulates oil and dissolves sebum. Like retinol, AHA/BHA chemically sloughs off dead cells and build up while supporting healthier cellular regeneration. These are often used to brighten skin and promote a more even skin tone as well.

-Vitamin C, found in citric acids and fruits, is an anti-oxidant that shields skin from free radical damage (free radicals are environmental aggressors that break down healthy collagen and elastin and can even cause pigmentation damage). This prevents textural issues from worsening as well as supports collagen production as well. Other anti-oxidant sources include teas, pomegranate and berry extracts, and grape seed extract/polyphenols.

-Peptides, these are the proteins that provide more instant and long-term pay off in terms of visibly seeing a difference in lines. Peptides absorb down and focus on regions where collagen and elastin are lacking, filling in those damaged regions, plumping/swelling and thus increases volume so skin appears smoother and lines/wrinkles are less pronounced. They serve to strengthen and also restore skin's integrity and resiliency.

It's important to note that with retinol and use of AHA/BHA, skin may react with a bit of sensitivity, especially if you've never used these components before. While it's not out of the ordinary for a bit of redness/flushing to occur or even mild tenderness, skin should never feel any genuine discomfort such as stinging, burning, or intense peeling. Due to the chemical exfoliation that takes place, it's vital to moisturize after and practice proper sun safety during the day so skin doesn't become dried out or distressed.

Peter Thomas Roth's Retinol Fusion PM is a no-nonsense retinol fluid that is infused with conditioning squalane, vitamin E, and bisabolol. It's also incorporating vitamin C, this retails for $65 (US). It's retinol is micro-encapsulated, meaning it's delivery and absorption to skin is done in a more gentle and cushioned delivery to lessen the risk of any shock to skin. If you're wanting a more fortified version and don't mind spending a bit more, the Professional 3% Retinoid Plus ($82 US) utilizes ceramides and sodium hyaluronate to moisturize and aid in improving lipid retention in cellular tissue as well.

Ole Henriksen's Invigorating Night Transformation Gel is a retinol-free serum that utilizes the glycolic, lactic, and citric acids as well as skin-softening vitamin E while retailing for $48 (US).

If you're up for spending a bit more ($95 US) and trying a wider host of products, the Dr. Brandt Pro-Strength Solutions kit is a great way to go. The kit comes with a full size of the the Needles No More 3-D Filler Mask (normally retails for $95 on its own, and is more of a fuller-bodied treatment cream, so it's not thin like a normal serum, but it's not a moisturizer either) and trial sizes of the Needles No More 3-D Filler Smoother Cream, Microdermabrasion exfoliator (gentle scrub with lactic acid and antioxidants), Time Defying Cream (hydrating with rich conditioners, anti-oxidants, and peptides), and Triple Peptide Eye Cream (fortified with peptides and vitamin A - more gentle form of retinol and vitamin C). The two Needles No More 3-D Filler items are peptide and AHA focused.

Dr. Dennis Gross' Triple C Peptide Firming Oil hydrates with its fatty-acid rich oil base while treating skin with various vitamin C sources, peptides, retinol, and AHA/BHA for $62 (US). With this formula being a fortified oil, it can be used as your treatment and moisturizer in one. If you find you wish you strictly use this as your treatment, be sure you let it sink in and absorb fully before applying your normal night cream over it so the oil won't impede the absorption rate of your face cream. If you find this to be a touch too potent initially, you can apply your face cream first then followed by this so the cream "cushions" and slows down the absorption a bit.