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Post in Acne-Prone Skin
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desperate for acne advice

My skin has been a mess for the past three months and I feel like I've tried everything. Any recommendations to clear my acne up would be so appreciated!

 

Here's my current routine:

AM: tone with Lush Tea Tree Water, Josie Maran argan whipped face butter, and the NARs tinted moisturizer spf 30

PM: wash with Youth to the people cleanser, Kate Somerville Anti Bac benzoyl peroxide treatment, and Ole Henriksen invigorating night creme OR Josie Maran light argan oil

 

I have tried Paula's Choice 2% BHA, Belief aqua bomb, Ole Henriksen find your balance cleanser, Ole Henriksen find your balance toner, most Murad products (the post acne spot serum worked, but its recommended to stop use after 3 months), Tarte maracuja oil, Kate Somerville eradikate cleanser, Ole Henriksen invigorating night treatment, Ole Henriksen truth serum, etc.

 

I feel like I've tried it all. I'm even on spironolactone which totally cleared my skin last year when I first started it. I did stop using a benzoyl peroxide/clindamycin treatment back in November that I was on for 10 years, but I wouldn't think it'd take 3 months for my skin to break out again. But my skin was clearest on spiro and benzoyl peroxide/clindamycin.

 

So now I've introduced the Kate anti bac and have seen some results, however I'm so dry and still getting new break outs.

 

I am desperate for any advice. I've spent these last 3 months with trial and error

Re: desperate for acne advice

I have very acne prone skin, and just want to start with saying I haven't read everyone's replies.  But would still like to offer some advice.

 

You need to start paying attention to ingredients.  Not only for things that are good for acne, but also things that trigger breakouts.

 

I cannot use coconut products, physical and mineral sunscreens, rose products, lavender products, Bismuth Oxychloride, many added fragrances, tin/iron oxides, and more.

 

I would cut out all Lush products, because while "natural", are not always skin friendly.  Also, the argan butter may be too thick and clogging for your skin.

 

The NARS tinted moisturizer personally gave me painful cystic acne that took months to clear.

 

I also cannot use GlamGlow products, FAB products, Belif, Bare Minerals, many Philosphy.  There's more, I just can't think of them.

 

It's best to start out with products with simple ingredient lists, and please note, just because it's MARKETED in Sephora and other places as being amazing, doesn't mean it exactly is.  Companies exist to make money.  Marketing exists to sell things.

 

Stridex acne pads are affordable and are great.  I use the red formula every morning and night, and I definitely notice with I miss a day.

 

Cleansers with far-fetched claims are often a miss for most people.  The product is not on your skin long enough to make a difference, and you are literally rinsing it down the drain.  Something with simple ingredients and is pH balanced is all you need.

 

Sunscreen does not need to cost $50 a bottle, and makeup with sunscreen simply does not offer enough protection to even be worth it.  It's a personal gripe of mine that many foundations have sunscreen, because it's a truly pointless ingredient for the product.  Again, marketing.

 

Asian sunscreens are great, I prefer the Biore Aqua Riche Watery Essence.  It's lightweight, dries quickly, doesn't leave a white cast, and doesn't break me out.

 

Moisturizers do not need to cost $50 -- although I admit I love Ole Henriksen Sheer Transformations.  Again, simple ingredient lists with proven skin-improving ingredients are what you want to look for.  Hyaluronic acid is a great product to look for -- it's naturally occurring in your skin and is great at holding water in the skin.

 

Skincare is truly trial and error to find what works for you.  Pay attention to ingredients, keep track to see if any products that break you out have similar ingredients.

 

Also, patch test any and all new products to your routine.  I breakout in the lower half of my face, so I patch test on my jaw near my ear for at least a week before I will apply a new product to my entire face.

 

Be mindful of marketing and buzzwords.  If a product is making outrageous, too-good-too-be-true claims, they often are.

 

Skincare is a hobby of mine, and I do not have the interests of any single company in mind -- I am not biased.  It took me a while to learn ingredients and learn what truly works for my skin.

 

Try to take an objective approach to your skin, try to ignore marketing claims and buzzwords.  And it's absolutely okay if you need a doctor's intervention to achieve clear skin.  Acne IS a medical condition.

 

I hope that helps and that I didn't sound too preachy!  I have been where you are at now and now I have clear skin that I have to work on every single day to keep clear, but it is worth it in the end.

Anonymous Insider

Re: desperate for acne advice

I appreciate your input.  I have never really had an issue with my skin until lately & being older Im exasperated with what to use. Im looking for a cleanser & moisturizer, anti aging etc etc.....Ive tried so many different ones I should look 21 by the end of the year!!! If there's any suggestions Im willing to listen!!! thank you so much.

BTW.....you didnt sound preachy!!

 

Re: desperate for acne advice

I really appreciate this reply. I'm understanding that ingredients are much more important than I thought. I even located a website that tells you what each exact ingredient in any product is and how acne inducing it is. This has helped me rid of my Josie moisturizer, which is heartbreaking because it never broke me out before but I also don't know that it's helped. Since posting this I did get put on a benzoyl peroxide/clindamycin gel from my doctor (in conjunction with my spiro) and have seen some improvement. I'm bummed to be on this again as I hoped aging would have helped my skin, but unfortunately I need to be on acne treatment to help the stubbornness. I am trying to be diligent about sunscreen and am using Supergoop's mineral sunscreen spf 40 before my NARS tinted moisturizer. So far it hasn't broken me out. Currently my neck acne is still a concern, but unfortunately topical products don't do wonders in that area since it's hormonal, so I've lowed my spiro dosage and am hoping that that will work. Again, thanks for your thorough response! It's easy to feel like you suffer alone with bad skin

Re: desperate for acne advice

YES to all of this! I have had painful cystic acne induced by stress and hormones from 18/19-24 and had to learn to be SO wary of marketing and ingredients when it comes to skincare. I can't afford some $85 "miracle oil" the way I go thru my skincare!

 

Educate yourself!! Reading a lot of Paula's Choice articles/going through beautpedia has helped me a lot but I still take all that with a grain of salt: products work differently for different people.

 

 

For me, I've found what helps is a very SIMPLE routine & the simpler the ingredients the better! Even more so when my skin is irritated from trying a new product. Steaming my face with a hot washcloth nightly has worked wonders as well as going to a derm to get a prescription for a sulfur face wash & a retinoid - though I truly believe you could even find everything you need to treat your acne at the drugstore. (don't @ me sephora... but I think murad and ole are overpriced, esp for people dealing w acne 😮 !)

 

Also, I took spiro for about a month, it didn't work for me & I didn't want to be on another med so I stopped. your acne sounds like it is a combo of hormonal/bacterial so that may be different for you.

Best of luck @ostark!

Re: desperate for acne advice

I have oily/combo skin that is acne prone. I've had acne for 30 years and I'm in my 40s. My acne is under control now. 

A lot of good advice here already. 

It does sound like your skin is irritated, dry, and acne-prone. I think having a consistent routine without many changes may help your skin come back into balance, though it may mean a brief period of extra-zitty-ness. 

To get back to balance, consider stripping your routine down to the essentials:

cleanser

acne treatment (Maybe an exfoliant)

moisturizer

As your skin comes into balance, add an exfoliant then add a serum, etc. But slowly! I think your skin is freaking out! Don't use anything with added fragrance or irritants during this time. That means, I'm afraid, no Ole Henriksen for the time being. 

For cleansers, I also like the Soy Fresh - but its smell (not from added fragrance) can be off-putting for some. My absolute favorite cleanser from Sephora is the First Aid Beauty cream cleanser. 8oz giant tube is $30 and it lasts and lasts. It is gentle and effective. You'd need an eye makeup remover on top of it, though. 

For anti-acne, pick one of the OTC all-stars: salicylic acid or benzoyl peroxide. Sulfur, as pointed out elsewhere here, can be fairly irritating and it does a better job of reducing existing acne, in my experience, not preventing it. For salicylic acid, Paula's Choice BHA is still the best out there, IMHO. If the 2% liquid was too irritating for you, consider the BHA lotion at 1%. 

You might also consider alternating BHA in the AM and a mild BP at night (or vice versa). The Kate Somerville anti bac clearing lotion is an excellent choice. 

After a solid month on a routine, you could consider adding a sulfur product to attack existing acne but for me BP + sulfur = skin revolt

For a moisturizer, consider something less occlusive than JM's face butter. Have you tried Drunk Elephant's B Hydra? It has a lovely gel consistency and isn't likely to cause/irritate acne. If that isn't enough for you, maybe add Dr Jart's water fuse water max mask. It is delightful and its main active is hyaluronic acid. 

If your skin is really parched and you just can't imagine life without a thick moisturizer, consider Drunk Elephant's Lala whipped moisturizer. Divine and quite moisturizing. 

Of course, wear a sunscreen during the day

 

above all else, make sure you have a good dermie! There are so many medication about there, and having a sensitive dermie who listens to your needs is worth its weight in gold. If you live in NYC, send me a PM if you'd like a recommendation for a dermie. 

 

Make sure you you listen to your skin. Adjust your routine if needed but don't change too much at once. Stronger products aren't likely to produce better longer-term results!

Re: desperate for acne advice

I completely agree with @HarlemJPN. I have very sensitive oily/combo skin that can be very reactive to certain ingredients. I think one thing we often overlook are ingredients and how they act when contacted on the skin. For me personally my skin does not do well with fragrances and citric ingredients. I bought products that a lot of people were raving about ignoring what it was doing to my skin, and it suffered severely. I completely changed my skincare and went back to the basics and now my skin is finally stable. I stopped using my clairosonic because I found it was too rough for my sensitive skin so I know use microfiber washcloths. I have been using the YTTP and it has become my holy grail face wash. Here's my simple routine below:

 

Morning:

1. With warm water I take my wash cloth and wipe my face

2.Cleanse my skin with YTTP (I might switch to the Glossier Milk Jelly for mornings - it's comparable to the Nude cleanser).

2. Instead of rinsing my skin, I wipe the cleanser off with my wash cloth.

3. Spray my face with Evian water and apply moisturizer (Drunk Elephant's Hydra B is excellent)

4. Apply sunscreen and make up 

 

Night:

1. I use any oil that I have (Olive oil, Jojoba, etc). While the oil is still on my face I wet my wash cloth with warm water and wipe my face.

2. Cleanse my face with YTTP and wipe of cleanser with washcloth.

3. Spray my face with Evian water and while my face is still damp I apply oil (Emu oil is my favorite and has dramatically changed my skin). For the colder months I am in love with the Drunk Elephant LaLa Whipped on top of my oil.

 

Exfoliation: I do this 3 times a week. Because my skin is so sensitive I use African Black soap and that is enough exfoliation my my skin type. 

 

I hope this helps. 

Anonymous Insider

Re: desperate for acne advice

Have you tried the most overlooked ingredient.. SULFUR? Sulfur is a natural Anti Bacterial and Anti Fungal property, making it Earth's oldest Acne cure! After trying every ingredient you can name my Dermatologist recommended Sulfur by Joesoef Skin Care to be the most effective and highest quality Sulfur based product line in the market. Sulfur really had a positive affect on my complexion, reducing the redness, acne and clogged pores in a matter of days. Try Joesoef Skin Care 4 Step Acne facial kit. You'll see the results! I hope this helps. ❤️

Re: desperate for acne advice

I have tried sulfur and love that it's gentle but it wasn't effective for my acne

Re: desperate for acne advice

Honestly, just wash your face with cetaphil and use  la rosche pose tolaraine cream for moisturizer... keep it simple and your skin will clear up

Re: desperate for acne advice

@ostark@greenchilli completely agree with greenchilli. I had been using a salicylic acid cleanser in the PM following DHC cleansing oil and it was too harsh on my skin. It turns out my skin was starving for moisture this winter and when it didn't get the moisture it needed, it decided to let loose a bunch of zits. I now use Fresh soy cleanser following the DHC and on extra dry days I layer a sleeping mask on top of a moisturizer or layer a facial oil on top of the moisturizer at night. I also use a chemical exfoliator at most once a week now instead of twice a week. I now have significantly less acne.

Re: desperate for acne advice

Yes! I do notice when my skin feels drier that I tend to break out more. That's why I switched to the YTTP cleanser recently, as I was using the Ole cleanser with salicylic acid and it was probably too harsh. What oil and chemical exfoliator might you recommend?

Re: desperate for acne advice

You have both bacterial and hormonal acne.  Why don't you get back on benzoyl peroxide/clindamycin since it worked for you???

 

 

 

Re: desperate for acne advice

That's probably what I'll have to do. I just wanted to try some OTC options since I am currently also taking spiro, thinking that that would be enough. But sometimes doctor's orders are the best. Thank you.

Re: desperate for acne advice

@ostark

 

I would beging with rethinking your cleansing.

 

In the PM, you are using Youth to he People cleasner.  This is a gel cleanser that is not equipped to effectively remove the makeup and SPF you are wearing each morning.  This is more for cleansing the skin.

 

I would suggest using an oil or balm cleanser that is good at removing makeup and SPF.  Tata Harper Nourishing Oil cleaner is a champ.  Or, you can cleanse twice - once to remove makeup, and once to cleanse skin.  Clinique Take the Day off balm is a popular makeup remover.  You can follow that you with your regular cleanser.  I have not tried YTP brand, so can't advice there.  But if I were o suggest, I would say look into Ren Evercalm cleansing milk or NUDE Omega Jelly.  They are both great for sensitive skin.

 

Poor cleansing is one of the primary causes of acne for many.  

 

 

I am not a fan of acne treatment products.  They treat symptoms, and often poorly.  I would much rather focus on the cause of the acne and treat that.

 

I would suggest adding in an acid exfoliator.  You don't say how old yo are, but I will assume at least in 20s (correct me if I'm wrong).  FAB Radiance pads or  Dr. Dennis Gross alpha beta pads are good products.  Use them twice a week at night, and can ramp up to every alternate night.  It will help your skin immensely - removing dead cell build up and preventing blemishes.

 

Ole Henriksen and Josie Maran are two brands that don't suit my skin at all.  Not to say they don't suit you, but I would not take for granted any brand.

 

And most importantly, diet and hormones.  God skincare cannot overcome a poor diet.  Sugar, refined starches, and often dairy are common causes of skin shenanigans.  Cut back on that if its a problem.

Re: desperate for acne advice

I did forget to mention that I use the tatcha cleansing oil to remove makeup prior to using the YTTP cleanser. I have also used chemical exfoliators, i tried the Paulas Choice BHA for a month and a half with little success. Chemical exfoliators don't kill the bacteria as much as they just cleanse the pore, so that's why I introduced the BP product by Kate Somerville. I also know that BP has worked for me for 12 years when I was on a prescription acne medicine. I'll look into the Dr. Dennis Gross pads, however, since I haven't tried them. It seems that my skin doesn't love glycolic acid in the form of serums or toners. Do you have any tips for a good moisturizer that will help my dryness but not cause break outs?

Re: desperate for acne advice

@ostark products can work differently for everybody so what may not break most people out, may break you out. It's best to do a spot test and see how your skin reacts. One of my favorite moisturizers is OLEHENRIKSEN
Sheer Transformation® Perfecting Moisturizer. It's great for all skin types and hydrates, evens skin tone, and smooth texture. 

XOXO,
Marieke
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